Just recently bought a P1 full subaru srvice history 54000 miles from a reputable well known subaru dealer in Ayrshire with a 1 year warranty, owned it for 5 days, was sitting in a layby answering a phone call, looked at the dual carridgeway I was about to drive along and thought its very quiet road no traffic, time to see what this baby can do so I pulled out and floored from 1st to 4th without hitting rev limiter got to 120mph pretty rapidly very impressed with it, I saw traffic ahead so slowed down to 70 mph after that heard a dull knocking noise from engine so went straight to dealer who thinks it coming from bottom end, I have read several stories about P1s blowing there engines around 50000 miles, I thought the problem was at top end of engine pistons etc, I suppose the lesson in this is pay a bit extra and buy from a subaru dealer and get a warranty, comments please about what normally goes in a P1 engine

 

Sorry to hear that mate, glad uve gt a warrenty tho. Ive heard the same about the millage bt im unsure of the specifics.

 

Usually big end bearings, these went in my 93 wrx, although it did have 106,000 miles on it and it isn't running standard power. Same symtoms, on slowing down i heard a knocking noise. On tick over the engine sounds fairly normal, but when you blip the throttle it knocks like hell. Bottom end rebuild time, maybe while its being done talk nice to the dealer and see how much extra he would want for you to have forged pistons put in while its all apart. Wish i had done this.

 

Sorry to hear that, but to coin a phrase, "They all do that, sir".

Seriously: P1 engine failure around that mileage is very common. It's basically a Japan-spec STI engine, mapped for high octane fuel, and although the P1 software has more active knock correction, it's not really adequate to allow the car to run safely on UK fuel.

So, at high rpm you get knocking, and that causes both high temperatures and bearing loads, and the big ends are the weak link.

Let's all hope it's covered under warranty - the only fix is a complete bottom end rebuild, which will be around £2500

Once it's fixed, getting the ECU remapped will save it from happening again. There's nothing inherently wrong with the engine, it just needs to be mapped for the fuel you're using. Until you can get the remap done, stick to V-power or Tesco's 99 RON super unleaded.

Sorry you've had a bad start to scooby ownership.

 

mine p1 stated knocking 2 weeks ago @44k your sort of lucky having warranty but so many go again after a dealer bodge rebuild, work them for a new STI9 short block and nothing else

mark

 

When it's fixed have it remapped and run it on Super unleaded. My STi (almost the same engine) was remapped ages ago and I'm on 85k with no problems.

 

Has anyone ever had an engine go that's been remapped? I'd not mention that you were doing 120 mph to the dealer!

 

Neither would I, but the car would have been advertised when new as being able to do that without blowing the engine. In theory the warranty should not be affected.

Just seems like a ridiculous ****-up that the P1 was sold as a uk model without the mapping being checked out to ensure it could run at WOT on our fuel when required.

Subaru should have paid out for re-builds, or recalled them all for re-mapping in the same way that, for instance BMW paid out for new VANOS systems.

 

big ends going its NOTHING to do with the fueling, det can cause the rods to vibrate but the engines temps would melt the piston first

get some shots of the pistions and that will show signs of det, think its just the design of the engine that means they seem to spin shells, that and the way there treated till warm, my scoobie takes 20mins to warm up to temp which i feel is alot for ANY car

remapping wont stop any motor spining a shell,,, cant belive you are all thinking it does ??

 

Didnt mention it to subaru dealer had just been to dealer 30 mins previous about another matter then returned with knackered engine, this dealer won subaru garage of the year 2007, gave me a courtesy car, as I have only owned the car for 5 days and its my 3rd subaru from them I dont think I will have any problems with them

 

Are you serious??
Det and knocking (ie afueling problem- running lean)are a very real cause of bottom end failure in scoobs, the unhealthy and immense pressures from knock at high revs are sent through the pistons and down the rods to the crank which ultimately end in bearing failure.

 

i know the theory for it, just i know before that happens the pistons/spark plug tip will fall off first, the spun shell will still be a issue but the piston is weaker

HENCE i said look at the piston top as det is VERY easy to spot even if the piston and fully failed

if theres no sign of det on the piston then its another reason for the shell failure

i was talking to someone at work about the same thing and he spun a shell but had no det on the piston,, rebuild engine and then melted a piston but never welded the bearing shell to hes crank this time

alot of places choose the obvious, over heating is head gasket ect ect ect

check out WHY something failed when the engines apart before SAYING how it failed based on what your told

 

Yes, good points ginge.

 

Oil pump failure is a very common cause of knackered big-ends. This usually rises its ugly head after gunning it for a few minutes. Heat rises, intercooler unable to cool air effectivly......... knock, clang, rattle, knock.

 

"DANGEROUS DAVY is HAPPY JUST BOUGHT A P1"

I'm surprised that your mood hasn't changed ?

My bog standard MY02 had to be rebuilt after 76000 miles, so you're not alone

 

I've got a P1 - which did similar and needed a complete rebuild (~£6k under warranty) about 2 yrs ago - just after the MAF sensor had played up and had to be replaced.

Dealer that did it mentioned nothing about having it remapped. If that's the answer, why aren't all the dealers just doing it at service time by default?

Does it affect performance having it done? Is it really the answer?

Gordo

 

just go maf-less with any aftermarket ecu... problem solved
oh I do 150 plus on my private highway with no probs !

 

Got my P1 back yesterday with a new short motor, dealer assures me it has been has been mapped for lower octane fuel, my warranty only covers me for first £2000 of each claim but I did not have to pay for anything , so how much does a new short motor cost, oh and I have to run it in for the first 1000 miles and then get an oil and filter change, Dangerous Davy is happy again.

 

bttt

 

All imprezas with standard tmic should not be thrashed after sitting at idle due to heat soak. its a major reason for engine failure.

 

Fact is there are numerous combinations that can lead t engine failure.
Remap will help but is not the holy grail.