boost controler
10 June 2008 | 09:49 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Scooby Newbie
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26
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From: louth, lincolnshire
boost controler
hi there,
new to scoobies and wanting more power, so my friend suggested a boost controler?, so i bought one but have not fitted it, as i have a 98 turbo 2000 i have been told these are a bad year as they dont have a re-programable ecu?
logic suggests if i up the boost with the controler then i should tell the ecu to put more feul in, my friend assures me not and to bolt it in and away i go.
can anyone help me with this as i dont want to blow it up!!!
many thanks in advance
jason
new to scoobies and wanting more power, so my friend suggested a boost controler?, so i bought one but have not fitted it, as i have a 98 turbo 2000 i have been told these are a bad year as they dont have a re-programable ecu?
logic suggests if i up the boost with the controler then i should tell the ecu to put more feul in, my friend assures me not and to bolt it in and away i go.
can anyone help me with this as i dont want to blow it up!!!
many thanks in advance
jason
10 June 2008 | 09:54 AM
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: The Terry Crews of moderation. P P P P P P POWER!!
hi there,
new to scoobies and wanting more power, so my friend suggested a boost controler?, so i bought one but have not fitted it, as i have a 98 turbo 2000 i have been told these are a bad year as they dont have a re-programable ecu?
logic suggests if i up the boost with the controler then i should tell the ecu to put more feul in, my friend assures me not and to bolt it in and away i go.
can anyone help me with this as i dont want to blow it up!!!
many thanks in advance
jason
new to scoobies and wanting more power, so my friend suggested a boost controler?, so i bought one but have not fitted it, as i have a 98 turbo 2000 i have been told these are a bad year as they dont have a re-programable ecu?
logic suggests if i up the boost with the controler then i should tell the ecu to put more feul in, my friend assures me not and to bolt it in and away i go.
can anyone help me with this as i dont want to blow it up!!!
many thanks in advance
jason
Were it only that easy, we'd all have a lot more money on here!
Have a word with someone who knows what they're talking about, like David at APi Impreza (they advertise on here).
Ns04
10 June 2008 | 10:31 AM
#3
Scooby Regular
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 975
Likes: 0
From: Northamptonshire
I have a 98 Forester import and that has the ecu that is un-mappable.
I think that you can tell definitely by looking to see if it has the three yellow plugs going into the ecu.
Options , apart from a new ecu system, are very limited and I would not use a boost controller.
My ecu copes with some silicone hosing around the turbo, a sports- cat downpipe and a Trust backbox. There is not much point going further with the oem ecu.
There are lots of helpful mappers on here and if you give them the details of the ecu number then I expect one will tell you.
Enjoy the car.
Cheers
JBL
I think that you can tell definitely by looking to see if it has the three yellow plugs going into the ecu.
Options , apart from a new ecu system, are very limited and I would not use a boost controller.
My ecu copes with some silicone hosing around the turbo, a sports- cat downpipe and a Trust backbox. There is not much point going further with the oem ecu.
There are lots of helpful mappers on here and if you give them the details of the ecu number then I expect one will tell you.
Enjoy the car.
Cheers
JBL
10 June 2008 | 05:37 PM
#5
Scooby Regular
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
From: East Sussex/Kent Border
Whilst I can understand concerns, and agree that if possible, mapping is a better option, surely it is possible to get some safe gains by using a decent boost controller on a UK Turbo?
I used a Blitz DSBC on my old STi 3 for 2 years and 30k miles without any probs. It was set at 1.3bar and rolling road checked for fueling - can't the same be done for a UK Turbo but with obviously lower peak boost
I used a Blitz DSBC on my old STi 3 for 2 years and 30k miles without any probs. It was set at 1.3bar and rolling road checked for fueling - can't the same be done for a UK Turbo but with obviously lower peak boost
10 June 2008 | 07:22 PM
#7
ive got a blitz dsbc on my00 and have it set to 1.1 bar will be taking it off v.soon and going for a remap as ive had a few oil leaks in places and have been told its due to dsbc causing some probs my scoob is near on standard .unless you are running high bhp its best and safer to go for a remap over a bc as i have been told hope this helps
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11 June 2008 | 10:17 AM
#8
Thread Starter
Scooby Newbie
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: louth, lincolnshire
hi yes have some pics, when u say phse two engine do u mean with the coil pack at the far right hand side of the engine, and the dump valve mounted on the intercooler?
11 June 2008 | 12:50 PM
#9
Scooby Regular
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 895
Likes: 0
So does a standard ECU adjust the fuelling accordingly when you increase the boost a bit ? It should obviously have some sort of fuelling correction for the times when standard cars overboost, say in cold winters for example ?
11 June 2008 | 04:15 PM
#11
98MY not mappable, 99MY is....
easy check is to look at the coil pack on the manifold, if its central and has all four HT lead boots the same and 3 wires going to it, its 98MY, if its of to the right (as you look from the front) has an od boot for cyl3 and has 4 wires going to its its 99MY.
98MY cars can have the boost raised to just under the over boost fuel cut, and on two cars I've seen rolling roaded at atht, fuel and ignition were safe, gave about a 25bhp increase.
Simon
easy check is to look at the coil pack on the manifold, if its central and has all four HT lead boots the same and 3 wires going to it, its 98MY, if its of to the right (as you look from the front) has an od boot for cyl3 and has 4 wires going to its its 99MY.
98MY cars can have the boost raised to just under the over boost fuel cut, and on two cars I've seen rolling roaded at atht, fuel and ignition were safe, gave about a 25bhp increase.
Simon
11 June 2008 | 04:31 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Scooby Newbie
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: louth, lincolnshire
mine is a 98, late 98 but coil pack mounted in the centraly, so i should be fine then, just needed others input, although i do trust my friend as he knows his way around a scooby, its always best to get input from others, thanks to all for the help, il post back and let you know how it goes
14 June 2008 | 11:10 AM
#13
Some late M/Y 98 cars have the ver 5 ECU and were effectively ver 5 cars.
Let me have your ECU number if your car is October 98 or later and I will tell you if that ECU can be remapped.
For instance this ECU is from a 98 STi RA mapped last weekend.
J2
22611 AF041
A18-000 DOZ 8Z09
UNISIA JECS CORPORATION
Effectively an STi 5 ECU.
The alternative is an after market ECU like Simtek or similar but that will cost in the region of a grand, fitted and mapped.
You can lift the boost by a small amount on your car quite safely but it has to be done by someone that knows what they are doing and that has a wideband AFR meter and preferably DET cans.
There is no need for an electronic boost controller but now that you have it, you may as well use it. Does your boost controller delete boost cut? If not, that will be your limitting factor. On my STi 3 Wagon, after the rebuild (the car was bought with a destroyed engine) I fitted a GBE valve which cost under £35 delivered. I also fitted an HKS Fuel Cut Defender. (Too expensive and no longer needed)
On standard injectors (440 cc yellow), standard TMIC, standard untouched ECU other than FCD and O/E VF23 turbo this car ran happilly for thousands of miles at 1.4 bar and rolling roaded at 335 bhp/333 ft/lbs. I ported the heads during the rebuild and fitted my own ported headers and up-pipe.
These cars are generally over fuelled (Classics) and the AFRs were good at that level of boost as was the EGT and there was no sign of DET..
That car now has 371 bhp and immediate response with a bigger intercooler, 550cc injectors, ST 380 turbo and Simtek ECU. Not a big gain for the money spent but very drivable and good cross country weapon and relatively economical.
If you go down the increased boost route DO NOT do it without the AFR and DET checks referred to above.
BTW, I now sell electronic boost controllers specifically for Subarus that removes the fuel/boost cut for less than I paid for my HKS FCD and there is also a stand alone ECB with its own solenoid valve that is very effective.
Let me have your ECU number if your car is October 98 or later and I will tell you if that ECU can be remapped.
For instance this ECU is from a 98 STi RA mapped last weekend.
J2
22611 AF041
A18-000 DOZ 8Z09
UNISIA JECS CORPORATION
Effectively an STi 5 ECU.
The alternative is an after market ECU like Simtek or similar but that will cost in the region of a grand, fitted and mapped.
You can lift the boost by a small amount on your car quite safely but it has to be done by someone that knows what they are doing and that has a wideband AFR meter and preferably DET cans.
There is no need for an electronic boost controller but now that you have it, you may as well use it. Does your boost controller delete boost cut? If not, that will be your limitting factor. On my STi 3 Wagon, after the rebuild (the car was bought with a destroyed engine) I fitted a GBE valve which cost under £35 delivered. I also fitted an HKS Fuel Cut Defender. (Too expensive and no longer needed)
On standard injectors (440 cc yellow), standard TMIC, standard untouched ECU other than FCD and O/E VF23 turbo this car ran happilly for thousands of miles at 1.4 bar and rolling roaded at 335 bhp/333 ft/lbs. I ported the heads during the rebuild and fitted my own ported headers and up-pipe.
These cars are generally over fuelled (Classics) and the AFRs were good at that level of boost as was the EGT and there was no sign of DET..
That car now has 371 bhp and immediate response with a bigger intercooler, 550cc injectors, ST 380 turbo and Simtek ECU. Not a big gain for the money spent but very drivable and good cross country weapon and relatively economical.
If you go down the increased boost route DO NOT do it without the AFR and DET checks referred to above.
BTW, I now sell electronic boost controllers specifically for Subarus that removes the fuel/boost cut for less than I paid for my HKS FCD and there is also a stand alone ECB with its own solenoid valve that is very effective.
16 June 2008 | 10:01 AM
#14
Thread Starter
Scooby Newbie
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: louth, lincolnshire
Some late M/Y 98 cars have the ver 5 ECU and were effectively ver 5 cars.
Let me have your ECU number if your car is October 98 or later and I will tell you if that ECU can be remapped.
For instance this ECU is from a 98 STi RA mapped last weekend.
J2
22611 AF041
A18-000 DOZ 8Z09
UNISIA JECS CORPORATION
Effectively an STi 5 ECU.
The alternative is an after market ECU like Simtek or similar but that will cost in the region of a grand, fitted and mapped.
You can lift the boost by a small amount on your car quite safely but it has to be done by someone that knows what they are doing and that has a wideband AFR meter and preferably DET cans.
There is no need for an electronic boost controller but now that you have it, you may as well use it. Does your boost controller delete boost cut? If not, that will be your limitting factor. On my STi 3 Wagon, after the rebuild (the car was bought with a destroyed engine) I fitted a GBE valve which cost under £35 delivered. I also fitted an HKS Fuel Cut Defender. (Too expensive and no longer needed)
On standard injectors (440 cc yellow), standard TMIC, standard untouched ECU other than FCD and O/E VF23 turbo this car ran happilly for thousands of miles at 1.4 bar and rolling roaded at 335 bhp/333 ft/lbs. I ported the heads during the rebuild and fitted my own ported headers and up-pipe.
These cars are generally over fuelled (Classics) and the AFRs were good at that level of boost as was the EGT and there was no sign of DET..
That car now has 371 bhp and immediate response with a bigger intercooler, 550cc injectors, ST 380 turbo and Simtek ECU. Not a big gain for the money spent but very drivable and good cross country weapon and relatively economical.
If you go down the increased boost route DO NOT do it without the AFR and DET checks referred to above.
BTW, I now sell electronic boost controllers specifically for Subarus that removes the fuel/boost cut for less than I paid for my HKS FCD and there is also a stand alone ECB with its own solenoid valve that is very effective.
Let me have your ECU number if your car is October 98 or later and I will tell you if that ECU can be remapped.
For instance this ECU is from a 98 STi RA mapped last weekend.
J2
22611 AF041
A18-000 DOZ 8Z09
UNISIA JECS CORPORATION
Effectively an STi 5 ECU.
The alternative is an after market ECU like Simtek or similar but that will cost in the region of a grand, fitted and mapped.
You can lift the boost by a small amount on your car quite safely but it has to be done by someone that knows what they are doing and that has a wideband AFR meter and preferably DET cans.
There is no need for an electronic boost controller but now that you have it, you may as well use it. Does your boost controller delete boost cut? If not, that will be your limitting factor. On my STi 3 Wagon, after the rebuild (the car was bought with a destroyed engine) I fitted a GBE valve which cost under £35 delivered. I also fitted an HKS Fuel Cut Defender. (Too expensive and no longer needed)
On standard injectors (440 cc yellow), standard TMIC, standard untouched ECU other than FCD and O/E VF23 turbo this car ran happilly for thousands of miles at 1.4 bar and rolling roaded at 335 bhp/333 ft/lbs. I ported the heads during the rebuild and fitted my own ported headers and up-pipe.
These cars are generally over fuelled (Classics) and the AFRs were good at that level of boost as was the EGT and there was no sign of DET..
That car now has 371 bhp and immediate response with a bigger intercooler, 550cc injectors, ST 380 turbo and Simtek ECU. Not a big gain for the money spent but very drivable and good cross country weapon and relatively economical.
If you go down the increased boost route DO NOT do it without the AFR and DET checks referred to above.
BTW, I now sell electronic boost controllers specifically for Subarus that removes the fuel/boost cut for less than I paid for my HKS FCD and there is also a stand alone ECB with its own solenoid valve that is very effective.
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