fitted VF35 but no remap! hitting fuel cut.
#1
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fitted VF35 but no remap! hitting fuel cut.
Hi all,
New to the forum and Scooby ownership. Very much enjoying the car and the whole experience (except the fuel bills, lol). Loads of useful info to browse through when i'm sitting at work board !
Typical of me not being able to leave anything alone i've already started tinkering and making the car my own.
will have to get some pics on, when i work out how.
I have recently fitted a vf35 and de-cat up-pipe to my 2001 wrx Bugeye,
when i bought the car it had already had the following fitted and was remapped (mocom) with these fitted:
650cc injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Sti TMIC ( i think, not sure maybe bigger)
HKS Direct drive induction
3'' de-cat TB Exhaust
dyno'd @ 240.6
I have now changed back to standard airbox with a K&N Panel filter (was told was better), a de-cat up-pipe and VF35. the car seems to run fine and pulls ok through the rev range and spits plenty of flames on overun and during gear changes on hard blasts. Problem i'm having is that it hits the fuel cut and puts up EM light in 4th at top of RPM range (Overboost??)
Anybody know how i stop this from happening? I have removed the brass restrictor pill from the turbo-actuator pipe, the car doesn't pull as much now but still cuts in 4th.
My intention is to eventually have it dyno'd and remapped but funds don't allow for that at the moment, after the cost of having a tracker and other things sorted.
Is this a problem only curable by a remap or is there something i've overlooked.
Any suggestions/info would be most helpful
Have been looking at pehaps a Cobb AP unit, but again that will be when the funds permit.
Cheers
New to the forum and Scooby ownership. Very much enjoying the car and the whole experience (except the fuel bills, lol). Loads of useful info to browse through when i'm sitting at work board !
Typical of me not being able to leave anything alone i've already started tinkering and making the car my own.
will have to get some pics on, when i work out how.
I have recently fitted a vf35 and de-cat up-pipe to my 2001 wrx Bugeye,
when i bought the car it had already had the following fitted and was remapped (mocom) with these fitted:
650cc injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Sti TMIC ( i think, not sure maybe bigger)
HKS Direct drive induction
3'' de-cat TB Exhaust
dyno'd @ 240.6
I have now changed back to standard airbox with a K&N Panel filter (was told was better), a de-cat up-pipe and VF35. the car seems to run fine and pulls ok through the rev range and spits plenty of flames on overun and during gear changes on hard blasts. Problem i'm having is that it hits the fuel cut and puts up EM light in 4th at top of RPM range (Overboost??)
Anybody know how i stop this from happening? I have removed the brass restrictor pill from the turbo-actuator pipe, the car doesn't pull as much now but still cuts in 4th.
My intention is to eventually have it dyno'd and remapped but funds don't allow for that at the moment, after the cost of having a tracker and other things sorted.
Is this a problem only curable by a remap or is there something i've overlooked.
Any suggestions/info would be most helpful
Have been looking at pehaps a Cobb AP unit, but again that will be when the funds permit.
Cheers
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The car was done a couple of months before i bought it, so i didn't originally have it done so won't i have to pay the full amount?
I'm just thinking of the cost, i thought it was going to cost me around £450-500.
It was owned by a ESC member Paul&bon,
I'm just thinking of the cost, i thought it was going to cost me around £450-500.
It was owned by a ESC member Paul&bon,
#6
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Get it remapped ASAP before the engine goes, the car doesn't know it's got a bigger turbo on it so is only supplying fuel for the standard turbo, as the VF35 is a bigger turbo the engine will be running lean on boost and it won't take long for the engine to say enough is enough and that will cost you a lot more than a remap
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#8
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Don't get me wrong I do want to get it mapped, and i know it is important to make sure everything is running as it should i'm just looking for a quick fix untill i have the £££
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There is no quick fix that you are looking for and your engine (as already mentioned) will go pop sooner or later with no remap.
Its your choice but for the sake of ~£250 remap why risk the engine letting go and costing you many many times that
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Ok, thats why i thought it was going to be more. I will have to get in contact with the peeps down at Mocom then.
I have removed the restrictor pill and it has lowered the boost, still runs fine just doesn't come on boost so strong
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You came to ask for advice. The consensus is that youre on borrowed time. If I were you Id stop arguing and take the good avice that you have been given. Changing the turbocharger, removing a catalytic converter and dicking about with a manual boost controller are a recipe for disaster and Im surprised that the engine isnt scrap already.
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You came to ask for advice. The consensus is that youre on borrowed time. If I were you Id stop arguing and take the good avice that you have been given. Changing the turbocharger, removing a catalytic converter and dicking about with a manual boost controller are a recipe for disaster and Im surprised that the engine isnt scrap already.
For the record i am not ''dicking about with a manual boost controller!'' I merely stated that i had one, when some giving me ''advice'' said that i could control i.e reduce - the boost using one.
I am not arguing with the advice given to me, and have infact e-mailed Mocom already regarding getting it booked in as soon as physically possible.
I was simply stating my observation of what was happening with the car. As for the car ''being scrap already'' FYI, it's not being used, it was driven after the turbo was installed.
As for removing the restrictor pill that was something a scoobynet member had posted on a previous topic months ago.
I still have to drive the car to move it, from workshop to home, as i don't have the luxury of a car transporter or trailer.
Perhaps some people should look at my original post.
''Is this something that is curable only by a re-map?''
-The question now is will i be safe to drive the car, if it is driven normally (no high revs) so that i can travel to Mocom for the re-map.
Last edited by GavinE; 03 August 2008 at 08:20 PM.
#22
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BODSKI- I have e-mailed Mocom regarding a re-map. Do i need to contact Zak personally or will the e-mail be enough. I want to get it in ASAP to be sorted, do you know if there is normally a wait for booking, and how long does it normally take for the map to be done, as i would have to wait for the car,
Thanks for your help so far.
Thanks for your help so far.
Last edited by GavinE; 03 August 2008 at 08:13 PM.
#23
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For the record i am not ''dicking about with a manual boost controller!'' I merely stated that i had one, when some giving me ''advice'' said that i could control i.e reduce - the boost using one.
I am not arguing with the advice given to me, and have infact e-mailed Mocom already regarding getting it booked in as soon as physically possible.
I was simply stating my observation of what was happening with the car. As for the car ''being scrap already'' FYI, it's not being used, it was driven after the turbo was installed.
Perhaps some people should look at my original post.
''Is this something that is curable only by a re-map?''
-The question now is will i be safe to drive the car, if it is used normally (no high revs) so that i can travel to Mocom for the re-map.
I am not arguing with the advice given to me, and have infact e-mailed Mocom already regarding getting it booked in as soon as physically possible.
I was simply stating my observation of what was happening with the car. As for the car ''being scrap already'' FYI, it's not being used, it was driven after the turbo was installed.
Perhaps some people should look at my original post.
''Is this something that is curable only by a re-map?''
-The question now is will i be safe to drive the car, if it is used normally (no high revs) so that i can travel to Mocom for the re-map.
#25
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BODSKI- I have e-mailed Mocom regarding a re-map. Do i need to contact Zak personally or will the e-mail be enough. I want to get it in ASAP to be sorted, do you know if there is normally a wait for booking, and how long does it normally take for the map to be done, as i would have to wait for the car,
Thanks for your help so far.
Thanks for your help so far.
They can be a right royal pain in the **** to get hold of but Zak will get back to you in time. As for the mapping time it's difficult to tell as your not going to need a complete remap, as he's already done that part of it. I'd say maybe 2-3 Hours of mapping should see you ok. It's all done on the road so u can either hang around and do the driving yourself or leave it with them and then Luke drives and Zak does the mapping.
Oh and if u do hear back tell him Boyds still waiting to hear about his 3" Decat downpipe
#26
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Great stuff.
Will be good to get everything sorted properly and be able to give the car a good run on the way home
I'm sure i can mention about the downpipe for ya, no worries.
p.s how do i go about joining up with the ES Crew,
Will be good to get everything sorted properly and be able to give the car a good run on the way home
I'm sure i can mention about the downpipe for ya, no worries.
p.s how do i go about joining up with the ES Crew,
#27
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if you stay off boost it will not cause an issue..
if you are unable to not drive without boosting it (it's an illness but a nice one) then remove the C clip from the wastegate and remove the actuator to wastegate arm from the wastegate, or put a piece of pipe from actuator to compressor cover( remove the T / boost solenoid pipework)..
removing the wastegate arm is preferrable but more work to remove and refit.
Simon
if you are unable to not drive without boosting it (it's an illness but a nice one) then remove the C clip from the wastegate and remove the actuator to wastegate arm from the wastegate, or put a piece of pipe from actuator to compressor cover( remove the T / boost solenoid pipework)..
removing the wastegate arm is preferrable but more work to remove and refit.
Simon