Where to go??
#1
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Got a new scoob a few weeks ago on the intention with doing a few track days and hill climbs the cars not going to be road legal so i have stripped out the interior and removed the aircon and anything else that has not been welded to the car
The reason i am posting is i was wondering if i have missed anything important from my list of parts ordered......
Un equal length headers
Up pipe
Down pipe
HKS cat back
Front mount intercooler
Apex coil overs with pillow top mounts
Front and rear strut braces
Apexi power fc and commander
Red stuff pads
Groodrich hoses
Swirl pot
3 point harnesses
Some sort of tires to be decided??
Have i missed anything ? Any info appreciated.....
Thanks,
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The reason i am posting is i was wondering if i have missed anything important from my list of parts ordered......
Un equal length headers
Up pipe
Down pipe
HKS cat back
Front mount intercooler
Apex coil overs with pillow top mounts
Front and rear strut braces
Apexi power fc and commander
Red stuff pads
Groodrich hoses
Swirl pot
3 point harnesses
Some sort of tires to be decided??
Have i missed anything ? Any info appreciated.....
Thanks,
#3
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Why would you want unequal length manifolds? Personally Id be looking at a set of fettled OEM manifolds from Harvey Smith. Virtually all of the benefit of aftermarket equal length manifolds but at a fraction of the cost and with no reliability issues.
Warlbro fuel pump, although it depends on how you are setting up the swirl pot.
Three point harnesses are useless: either fit six pointers or use a CG-Lock.
Strut braces are of little real value. In order to work a front brace needs to be triangulated against the bulkhead. Better to look at something that braces along the inner wing first then combine a bottom brace with a triangulated top (I bet that that bucks popular opinion, but most people add tat like that without really knowing why or what it will achieve).
If youre doing anything where hitting the scenery is a possibility then Id look at fitting a fixed back seat: backrest failure isnt uncommon and the results can be horrible.
Seeing as its not a road class car now, remove the wondow regulators all round and fit polycarbonate windows, thatll save you 30-odd kilos (maybe more as it depends on the regulator weights).
Simon
Warlbro fuel pump, although it depends on how you are setting up the swirl pot.
Three point harnesses are useless: either fit six pointers or use a CG-Lock.
Strut braces are of little real value. In order to work a front brace needs to be triangulated against the bulkhead. Better to look at something that braces along the inner wing first then combine a bottom brace with a triangulated top (I bet that that bucks popular opinion, but most people add tat like that without really knowing why or what it will achieve).
If youre doing anything where hitting the scenery is a possibility then Id look at fitting a fixed back seat: backrest failure isnt uncommon and the results can be horrible.
Seeing as its not a road class car now, remove the wondow regulators all round and fit polycarbonate windows, thatll save you 30-odd kilos (maybe more as it depends on the regulator weights).
Simon
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Thinking on: Id probably ditch the original fuel tank and fit a six gallon tank in the boot with pumps and the swirl pot. If you do that you will need an aluminium firewall fitting. That wont be too diffucult if its a fixed seat JDM car: see that you seal the edges with a fire proof sealer too...
#5
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One thing i did think about was do i need a boost controller or will the apexi do the job in the mean time ??
ALK ?? Whats that?
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Id fit the Whiteline anti-roll bars and links first and Id also replace the soft bushes all round, before I fitted integrated suspension units. You might be happy with it as it will be then, but even if not, at least youll be able to fiddle with the endless bump and rebound combinations knowing that the ARBs and the bushes arent the reason you cant get it right.....
ALK stands for anti-lift kit: the law of diminishing returns applies and you get far less from this than you will the ARBs, drop links, nylon bushes and a good geometry setup.
ALK stands for anti-lift kit: the law of diminishing returns applies and you get far less from this than you will the ARBs, drop links, nylon bushes and a good geometry setup.
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One question though is, I thought equal length headers were slightly better for performance and tunability....or is it because the spec-c has a twin scroll turbo? You'll lose the rumble but it does sound nice on full boost
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