dyno result
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dyno result
well i finally got down to putting my car on the rr today and wasnt best pleased with the results.a quick run down of the spec,2.5l closed deck block,forged internals,walbro motorsport fuel pump,tubular wrapped headers,full decat 3in exhaust,parallel fuel rails,800cc injectors,inlet manifold heat spacers,aps front mount,large k+n cone filter,md321t+ turbo,autronic ecu,standered sti 8 heads,running 10 percent methanol and a few other bits and pieces.now before i had the 2.5l done i was on the standered 2.0l with the md321h,standered ecu running just v power and it made 418 bhp.so you would have thought that with the bigger engine,turbo,autronic ecu and 10 percent methanol that it would make more than an extra 20 bhp.or am i just hoping for too much.
#2
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Have you got a boost curve?
I have to say, the power curve peaks very early and torque seems late for AVCS heads. Running that turbo on funny fuel, I would of thought a 470bhp would of been on the cards.
Who mapped it and what did they say when they mapped it?
I have to say, the power curve peaks very early and torque seems late for AVCS heads. Running that turbo on funny fuel, I would of thought a 470bhp would of been on the cards.
Who mapped it and what did they say when they mapped it?
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i was thinking of around 470 ish myself,or atleast over 450,had it mapped by andrew carr,i could feel the power tailing off on the road myself but i had an issue with the exhaust when it was mapped first so got that sorted and had the map tweeked again which seemed to make a little more top end power.
#7
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Racing Line are in Halifax guys, do alot of Evos for the MLR guys..Matt is the guy who maps the cars...
the Racing line (UK) Ltd - www.theracingline.co.uk
the Racing line (UK) Ltd - www.theracingline.co.uk
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#9
i was thinking of around 470 ish myself,or atleast over 450,had it mapped by andrew carr,i could feel the power tailing off on the road myself but i had an issue with the exhaust when it was mapped first so got that sorted and had the map tweeked again which seemed to make a little more top end power.
That fuelling is odd, it needs to be smoothed out. Get the map done again or at least re-checked.
A MD321T+ Should easily make at least 450+ with meth, especially with the amount of boost that you are running.
Just for reference, below is a fuel curve from a very high powered 20G meth mix, as you can see from boost the fuelling is spot on and extremely stable, resulting in 420bhp.
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[QUOTE=R4LLY;8253058]That fuelling is odd, it needs to be smoothed out. Get the map done again or at least re-checked.
A MD321T+ Should easily make at least 450+ with meth, especially with the amount of boost that you are running.
Just for reference, below is a fuel curve from a very high powered 20G meth mix, as you can see from boost the fuelling is spot on and extremely stable, resulting in 420bhp.
yes but surely just by smoothing the fueling out isnt going to give me any were near the power i should be making,could there be something else wrong.
A MD321T+ Should easily make at least 450+ with meth, especially with the amount of boost that you are running.
Just for reference, below is a fuel curve from a very high powered 20G meth mix, as you can see from boost the fuelling is spot on and extremely stable, resulting in 420bhp.
yes but surely just by smoothing the fueling out isnt going to give me any were near the power i should be making,could there be something else wrong.
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I'd say it is more likely to be timing issues than fueling. What was the problem with the exhaust ? Any other comments from Andrew ?
Has yours got the avcs heads?
Sure it could lean out a touch at the top and gain some power from that but there is a balance in keeping it safe. Mine runs around those figures AFR wise.
Has yours got the avcs heads?
Sure it could lean out a touch at the top and gain some power from that but there is a balance in keeping it safe. Mine runs around those figures AFR wise.
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I'd say it is more likely to be timing issues than fueling. What was the problem with the exhaust ? Any other comments from Andrew ?
Has yours got the avcs heads?
Sure it could lean out a touch at the top and gain some power from that but there is a balance in keeping it safe. Mine runs around those figures AFR wise.
Has yours got the avcs heads?
Sure it could lean out a touch at the top and gain some power from that but there is a balance in keeping it safe. Mine runs around those figures AFR wise.
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As discussed, get the outstanding problems resolved before getting the map looked at again.
The changes to inlet and exhaust certainly let it breathe better but it still doesn't take as much timing as I would expect.
Andrew...
The changes to inlet and exhaust certainly let it breathe better but it still doesn't take as much timing as I would expect.
Andrew...
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yeah had a problem with the engine breathing since it was first built,as ive been so busy with work and such havent had time to get back down to the engine builder to get it sorted.dont know whether that will be affecting the power figure so much but i thought i had better get it sorted now, so i gave him a ring today and he says to save me time and inconvenience of my car being off the road while he takes the engine appart, he will build me another fresh engine so its just a matter of me taking the car down and swopping them over.if that doesnt solve the problem then ime out of ideas of what it could be.
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It's the seal around the rear of the crank. If you are having breathing problems in the crankcase, it can push this seal out. This may not only cause contamination of the clutch and flywheel, but is not a nice job to have to change. I am not sure if this can be done whilst engine is in situ.
Losing oil from this seal may also mean pressure loss around rear main bearing.
Losing oil from this seal may also mean pressure loss around rear main bearing.
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It's the seal around the rear of the crank. If you are having breathing problems in the crankcase, it can push this seal out. This may not only cause contamination of the clutch and flywheel, but is not a nice job to have to change. I am not sure if this can be done whilst engine is in situ.
Losing oil from this seal may also mean pressure loss around rear main bearing.
Losing oil from this seal may also mean pressure loss around rear main bearing.
#25
That car jumps to over 12.2 AFR when hitting 1.8 bar of boost.
Normally Fuel would be increased especially when it spikes on boost, not taken out....
Fuelling makes more of a difference then people think, especially when running Meth.
There may be other issues in your car which couldn't allow the mapper to stabilise the fuelling and fully map the car to it's potential.
Just ask whoever tuned/built the car why it's acting like that on the dyno.
They will know better than anyone else on here as to the reason why.
Normally Fuel would be increased especially when it spikes on boost, not taken out....
Fuelling makes more of a difference then people think, especially when running Meth.
There may be other issues in your car which couldn't allow the mapper to stabilise the fuelling and fully map the car to it's potential.
Just ask whoever tuned/built the car why it's acting like that on the dyno.
They will know better than anyone else on here as to the reason why.
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When your car starts to get to that level of tune and you have an autronics ECU you need to start to take action yourself about learning to tune your own car. Then you will have less hassle.
Steps to take are as follows:-
1) Any fitting of components (headers, clutch, turbo, etc) either do it yourself or find a good local reputable garage as these things are bread and butter to a local good mechanic and will be a lot cheaper than most specialist accept people like Harvey Performance.
2) Next get yourself some good books and plan on reading for a long while first start off with Ben strader book
Building And Tuning High-performance Electronic Fuel Injection by Ben Strader - Lovereading
There are others but this will be a good start.
3) Join the MRM autronics forum for free downloads, guides and general help and for more reading.
4) Get yourself on the EFi101 course in UK when they do it again. Either do the intro or right up to advanced.
5) Find out about any local dyno shops that you can book time with e.g. at about £50 so you can map your own car on it.
With the above you will be able to get yourself up to a good standard to map your own car as you will be trained by the best, have taken practical experience lessons, read all the background theory and will have all the software and tools (gauges, air/fuel meter, knock sensor, etc) to do it yourself.
I wouldn't say this is for all but because you have the basic car platform that should be pushing 500bhp you will be mapping that car over and over and no mapper has that much time to spend on your car (well they do but by the time they've finished you could have brought another small car) and only you know when it it is driving right for your needs.
I think those who just want a boost in performance would find the above options to time consuming and expensive but if you are after a beast like your car the best way is to do it yourself you will learn a lot in the process and if you take the right course with hands-on practical experience you will not do any damage to your car and best it will be a lot cheaper in the long run and you can ttweak till your hearts content.....
This is the path I am gradually taking .....
Steps to take are as follows:-
1) Any fitting of components (headers, clutch, turbo, etc) either do it yourself or find a good local reputable garage as these things are bread and butter to a local good mechanic and will be a lot cheaper than most specialist accept people like Harvey Performance.
2) Next get yourself some good books and plan on reading for a long while first start off with Ben strader book
Building And Tuning High-performance Electronic Fuel Injection by Ben Strader - Lovereading
There are others but this will be a good start.
3) Join the MRM autronics forum for free downloads, guides and general help and for more reading.
4) Get yourself on the EFi101 course in UK when they do it again. Either do the intro or right up to advanced.
5) Find out about any local dyno shops that you can book time with e.g. at about £50 so you can map your own car on it.
With the above you will be able to get yourself up to a good standard to map your own car as you will be trained by the best, have taken practical experience lessons, read all the background theory and will have all the software and tools (gauges, air/fuel meter, knock sensor, etc) to do it yourself.
I wouldn't say this is for all but because you have the basic car platform that should be pushing 500bhp you will be mapping that car over and over and no mapper has that much time to spend on your car (well they do but by the time they've finished you could have brought another small car) and only you know when it it is driving right for your needs.
I think those who just want a boost in performance would find the above options to time consuming and expensive but if you are after a beast like your car the best way is to do it yourself you will learn a lot in the process and if you take the right course with hands-on practical experience you will not do any damage to your car and best it will be a lot cheaper in the long run and you can ttweak till your hearts content.....
This is the path I am gradually taking .....
Last edited by reano; 09 November 2008 at 07:16 AM.
#27
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I'm with you on that reano, the best thing I have done is mapping my car myself. I have lost count of the number of map revisions I have made now, most improve the situation but not all. Understanding cause and effect is key to relating the way the car feels from everyday driving and why it feels that way (and what solves it).