Fitting a quickshift?
#2
Hi,
It depends which one it is, if its the Subaru one, the instructions are useless anyway... If its the lever only type, don't you just remove the gear level surround, then pop the existing lever out (ball joint) and pop the new one it..?
You would be better posting this in General Technical or Drivetrain.
Rgds, Alex
It depends which one it is, if its the Subaru one, the instructions are useless anyway... If its the lever only type, don't you just remove the gear level surround, then pop the existing lever out (ball joint) and pop the new one it..?
You would be better posting this in General Technical or Drivetrain.
Rgds, Alex
#3
I've been going round the houses trying to sort this out myself this morning, I bought just a lever as well, heres the bottom line from Subaru technical....
To remove the standard gear lever you need to remove a large circlip that can only be accessed and removed from below (and with the right tools), so I'm inclined not to try this myself.....
Apparently it "should" be an hours labour to do the job.....
To remove the standard gear lever you need to remove a large circlip that can only be accessed and removed from below (and with the right tools), so I'm inclined not to try this myself.....
Apparently it "should" be an hours labour to do the job.....
#6
Would you believe http://www.i-club.com
Or, for the terminally lazy, here's the exact page
The good news is that the difficulty rating is one star out of five, so even you can do it Greg
Nick.
Or, for the terminally lazy, here's the exact page
The good news is that the difficulty rating is one star out of five, so even you can do it Greg
Nick.
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#8
You need a *very* big hammer & a lump of wood to get the b*stard thing back in if you're trying it by yourself......
Get a friend to help
Richard
[Edited by dowser - 2/19/2002 4:01:28 PM]
Get a friend to help
Richard
[Edited by dowser - 2/19/2002 4:01:28 PM]
#9
Well after this weekend's amusement fitting a quickshift lever this is what you should do, after parking the car on level ground and ensuring you have a jack and axle stands to hand
Tools needed 12mm spanner and socket, Circlip pliers, cross head screwdriver, hammer, drift, grease, a clean solid work surface, pleanty of kitchen towel and an assistant for later...
1) Unscrew the gear ****
2) Open the centre armrest cubby box between the front seats
3) Pop of the 2 cover caps on the handbrake surround that were covered by the cubby lid and undo the screws
4) Pull the handbrake suround off, plastic clips hold it in and they don't brake for once
5) Disconect the wing mirror adjuster switch from the suround and completely remove it
6) Pull up the gearlever suround it has similar plastic clips and should pop off easily
7) Find a 12mm spanner and socket undo the the nut and bolt that secure the linkage to the gearlever and remove
8) Extract the 2 bushes and steel insert, save them for later
9) Pop the old gearlever out of the nylon cup
10) Take the old lever to the work surface, using the hammer and drift drive out the cotter pin securing the nylon ball to the bottom of the old lever and fit this ball to your new lever - if necessary
11) Jack the car up on the passenger (nearside) side and support with axle stands
12) Roll under the car with the circlip pliers (a torch might also be usefull) locate where the gearstick drops through the floor, look past the exhaust and propshaft for the bottom of the nylon cup and the circlip holding it in place, using the pliers remove the circlip and get yourself out from under the car.
13) From inside the car remove the nylon cup, you can now easily fit the nylon ball end of the new gearstick into the cup. Remember to grease it.
14) Getting your assistant to locate the assembled gearstick and cup back into it's hole, roll back under the car with the circlip pliers and circlip.
15) Get you assitant to hold the gearstick down while you try to refit the circlip in the groove. CHECK the circlip has seated properly in the locating groove on the bottom of the nylon cup by turning it round and getting your assistant to try and pull the lever out again (Don't use as much force as you used to remove it in the first place!)
16) Get out from under the car and lower it back to ground
17) Fit the bushes and insert to the gearstick, lightly grease and bolt the linkage back together.
18) Take the car for a test drive before fitting the covers, and take the spanner and socket with you!
19) Refit all the covers, surounds and gear ****
20) Job done! Shouldn't take more than 20 minutes if you have the right tools and fit the circlip properly [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]
[Edited by Tim W - 2/20/2002 12:28:26 AM]
Tools needed 12mm spanner and socket, Circlip pliers, cross head screwdriver, hammer, drift, grease, a clean solid work surface, pleanty of kitchen towel and an assistant for later...
1) Unscrew the gear ****
2) Open the centre armrest cubby box between the front seats
3) Pop of the 2 cover caps on the handbrake surround that were covered by the cubby lid and undo the screws
4) Pull the handbrake suround off, plastic clips hold it in and they don't brake for once
5) Disconect the wing mirror adjuster switch from the suround and completely remove it
6) Pull up the gearlever suround it has similar plastic clips and should pop off easily
7) Find a 12mm spanner and socket undo the the nut and bolt that secure the linkage to the gearlever and remove
8) Extract the 2 bushes and steel insert, save them for later
9) Pop the old gearlever out of the nylon cup
10) Take the old lever to the work surface, using the hammer and drift drive out the cotter pin securing the nylon ball to the bottom of the old lever and fit this ball to your new lever - if necessary
11) Jack the car up on the passenger (nearside) side and support with axle stands
12) Roll under the car with the circlip pliers (a torch might also be usefull) locate where the gearstick drops through the floor, look past the exhaust and propshaft for the bottom of the nylon cup and the circlip holding it in place, using the pliers remove the circlip and get yourself out from under the car.
13) From inside the car remove the nylon cup, you can now easily fit the nylon ball end of the new gearstick into the cup. Remember to grease it.
14) Getting your assistant to locate the assembled gearstick and cup back into it's hole, roll back under the car with the circlip pliers and circlip.
15) Get you assitant to hold the gearstick down while you try to refit the circlip in the groove. CHECK the circlip has seated properly in the locating groove on the bottom of the nylon cup by turning it round and getting your assistant to try and pull the lever out again (Don't use as much force as you used to remove it in the first place!)
16) Get out from under the car and lower it back to ground
17) Fit the bushes and insert to the gearstick, lightly grease and bolt the linkage back together.
18) Take the car for a test drive before fitting the covers, and take the spanner and socket with you!
19) Refit all the covers, surounds and gear ****
20) Job done! Shouldn't take more than 20 minutes if you have the right tools and fit the circlip properly [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]
[Edited by Tim W - 2/20/2002 12:28:26 AM]
#11
anyone care to comment on the difference between Tim W's fitting instructions which involve crawling under the car to remove a clip and the i-club ones which don't mention it!
I know which ones I'd prefer to do!!!
Greg
I know which ones I'd prefer to do!!!
Greg
#14
I've fitted the Prodrive, two GGR and a BRD one to my MY99 car (at different times, obviously!)
I just followed the i-club instructions with no issues. Never had to tinker with circlips.
I guess it might vary depending what year of car you have.
I just followed the i-club instructions with no issues. Never had to tinker with circlips.
I guess it might vary depending what year of car you have.
#15
Well, I had the GGR Scoobynet Flog Off one
Involved said scrabbling under the car with circlip pliers
I have to say I'm not a great fan of lumps of wood/hammer approach to mechanics
PTMW! is MY99
(Also helps if its not done in a dark garage )
Involved said scrabbling under the car with circlip pliers
I have to say I'm not a great fan of lumps of wood/hammer approach to mechanics
PTMW! is MY99
(Also helps if its not done in a dark garage )
#16
Well just done it in 7 mins inc coming back in once to check instructions. This on a MY00, no crawling around underneath, the old ball joint popped out easily and the new one went back in (once greased) with a hefty tap from a mallet.
regards,
greg
regards,
greg
#17
Have you test driven it yet Greg?
Lemme know if the gearstick doesn't come off in yer hand
Top man! - i'll be doing the same next week then...
Oh - and thanks Mr. Tang as well - if the Tartmaster has done it - thats good enough for me
[Edited by Crispin - 2/21/2002 1:19:28 PM]
Lemme know if the gearstick doesn't come off in yer hand
Top man! - i'll be doing the same next week then...
Oh - and thanks Mr. Tang as well - if the Tartmaster has done it - thats good enough for me
[Edited by Crispin - 2/21/2002 1:19:28 PM]
#19
If that little horror of a circlip isn't seated properly beleive me the shift will come off in your hand...and it won't go back in unless you unbolt the linkage...thankfully the standard Scoob tool kit contains a pair of pliers, a screwdriver and a 12mm spanner so you can at least get going again
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