New member
08 January 2009 | 04:52 AM
#1
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: The North
New member
As i'm soon to be looking for a Subaru to use as my daily drive i thought i better join up and try to find out some things about the marque.
Please excuse my ignorance to this marque as i'm currently a Ford RS man and have never owned anything Jap.
I quiet like the look of the P1 or especially the 2dr version so i think that's what i'll set my sights on.
Cheers
Chris
Please excuse my ignorance to this marque as i'm currently a Ford RS man and have never owned anything Jap.
I quiet like the look of the P1 or especially the 2dr version so i think that's what i'll set my sights on.
Cheers
Chris
Last edited by brammer; 08 January 2009 at 04:53 AM.
08 January 2009 | 05:14 AM
#2
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Welcome
So you are after either a type R (the R standing for Retna which was the code name for the 2 door shell) or a P1 (which is a type R shell but more of a version 5 car underneath).
So a quick run down on what your after, type R's started life in 1997 as a version 3, version 4's were a 1998 model year, 5's a 99 model year and 6's a 2000 model year (the P1 is based on the 5)
Differences is that the 99/00 cars are phase 2 engine cars, the P1 has abs brakes, 500 have the rear 2 pots, the other 500 do not so look out for that, no climate control in the p1, climate in the type r, dccd in the type r but no ABS, quicker steering on the JDM (japanese domestic market) cars, but the biggest thing you need to watch out for is what fuel they are run on, these cars will require a minimum of super unleaded/v power to run correctly, the version 5, 6 and P1's all suffer from similar problems, that being MAF sensors and a lean spot in the map furhter up the rev range (though the P1 does have better knock correction, its still basically a jap map)
These can be corrected, a simple remap at the cost of about 650 quid and can also improve the performance.
I would just carry on but you can find people on the p1 owners website (its something like P1 Web Owners Club :: Warning, may contain nuts! though you will need to register).
Tony
So you are after either a type R (the R standing for Retna which was the code name for the 2 door shell) or a P1 (which is a type R shell but more of a version 5 car underneath).
So a quick run down on what your after, type R's started life in 1997 as a version 3, version 4's were a 1998 model year, 5's a 99 model year and 6's a 2000 model year (the P1 is based on the 5)
Differences is that the 99/00 cars are phase 2 engine cars, the P1 has abs brakes, 500 have the rear 2 pots, the other 500 do not so look out for that, no climate control in the p1, climate in the type r, dccd in the type r but no ABS, quicker steering on the JDM (japanese domestic market) cars, but the biggest thing you need to watch out for is what fuel they are run on, these cars will require a minimum of super unleaded/v power to run correctly, the version 5, 6 and P1's all suffer from similar problems, that being MAF sensors and a lean spot in the map furhter up the rev range (though the P1 does have better knock correction, its still basically a jap map)
These can be corrected, a simple remap at the cost of about 650 quid and can also improve the performance.
I would just carry on but you can find people on the p1 owners website (its something like P1 Web Owners Club :: Warning, may contain nuts! though you will need to register).
Tony
Last edited by TonyBurns; 08 January 2009 at 07:00 AM.
08 January 2009 | 05:26 AM
#3
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From: The North
Many thanks for the welcome and some very interesting information to start with, i'll pop over to the P1 site and have a look around. Running super isn't a problem as i'm used to running my Cosworth on that.
What i would like to know is how reliable are the engines in standard form?? i see many car's for sale with the average 70k+ but when do these engines roughly need a rebuild (i know they differ on model and driver) but on average when do they show signs?
Chris.
What i would like to know is how reliable are the engines in standard form?? i see many car's for sale with the average 70k+ but when do these engines roughly need a rebuild (i know they differ on model and driver) but on average when do they show signs?
Chris.
08 January 2009 | 06:48 AM
#4
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
The engines are pretty strong, its mainly the MAF sensors and bad fuel that kill them, so a remap is useful to fix the fuel problem, the mafs you can detect with irratic idleing, worth replacing once a year as they are not that expensive.
Mine is on its way out now, and is up for a replacement next week.
You can also fit a knock link and lambda link which will give you some visable signs of any problems
Tony
Mine is on its way out now, and is up for a replacement next week.
You can also fit a knock link and lambda link which will give you some visable signs of any problems
Tony