why are so many blobeyes blowin up after oil change
13 December 2009, 09:41 PM
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why are so many blobeyes blowin up after oil change
as above there are loads off blobeyes blowing up after oil changes if they are done incorrectly and there low mileage dont hear off many bugeyes encountering same problems is there any difference between the too
13 December 2009, 09:44 PM
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13 December 2009, 09:49 PM
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13 December 2009, 09:49 PM
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I have heard of a couple of P1's bottom ends going soon after a service. I dont why it should be different for blob eyes?
I know pre filling the oil filter and dry cranking are important though
I know pre filling the oil filter and dry cranking are important though
13 December 2009, 09:53 PM
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Dry Cranking is an old wives tale, in my extensive Engineering experience.
Pre-Filling isn't needed either (although I still carry out that myself - but not strictly needed).
And to state that BugEye Engines let go at 35,000 miles after an Oil change is simply mis-leading ...... and wrong.
Pre-Filling isn't needed either (although I still carry out that myself - but not strictly needed).
And to state that BugEye Engines let go at 35,000 miles after an Oil change is simply mis-leading ...... and wrong.
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13 December 2009, 09:55 PM
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Dry Cranking is an old wives tale, in my extensive Engineering experience.
Pre-Filling isn't needed either (although I still carry out that myself - but not strictly needed).
And to state that BugEye Engines let go at 35,000 miles after an Oil change is simply mis-leading ...... and wrong.
Pre-Filling isn't needed either (although I still carry out that myself - but not strictly needed).
And to state that BugEye Engines let go at 35,000 miles after an Oil change is simply mis-leading ...... and wrong.
13 December 2009, 10:00 PM
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Dry Cranking is an old wives tale, in my extensive Engineering experience.
Pre-Filling isn't needed either (although I still carry out that myself - but not strictly needed).
And to state that BugEye Engines let go at 35,000 miles after an Oil change is simply mis-leading ...... and wrong.
Pre-Filling isn't needed either (although I still carry out that myself - but not strictly needed).
And to state that BugEye Engines let go at 35,000 miles after an Oil change is simply mis-leading ...... and wrong.
blobeyes and isnt it correct too disconnect cam sensor sunnyside youve got a well looked after classic im talkin newage
13 December 2009, 10:04 PM
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My bug is on 96k pushing out 400bhp, I prefill the filter but normal start upon filling the oil up. Have also done oil flush every other filter change (hard hat on ready for comments). Runs sweet with no knocking and gets hammered a lot.
13 December 2009, 10:08 PM
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Dry Cranking is an old wives tale, in my extensive Engineering experience.
Pre-Filling isn't needed either (although I still carry out that myself - but not strictly needed).
And to state that BugEye Engines let go at 35,000 miles after an Oil change is simply mis-leading ...... and wrong.
Pre-Filling isn't needed either (although I still carry out that myself - but not strictly needed).
And to state that BugEye Engines let go at 35,000 miles after an Oil change is simply mis-leading ...... and wrong.
The dry cranking is to build up the oil pressure, the filling of the oil filter is a normal procedure on any car.
The joys of not dry cranking are that you can cause oil starvation, something as an engineer Pete you should know about and understand that it isnt that good
Ask one of the engine builders what they think
but Tony
13 December 2009, 10:10 PM
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Dry Cranking not required.
Pre-Filling Oil filter up to owner though not really needed.
Just contact your Main Dealer if in any doubt, they will say the same.
13 December 2009, 10:18 PM
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as spending a lot off my time in technical i can assure you there is more blobs goin wrong than anything else other than classics
13 December 2009, 10:19 PM
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List their states of tune, if they were tracked after oil change, and the Service History of each vehicle.
Then we can work on your answer.
13 December 2009, 10:20 PM
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But, if you are worried, adhere to this Oil Change Procedure:-
The Oil Change according to the Old Ladies on here:-
1. Remove Oil Filler Cap, 'gently' - take at least 5 minutes or the threads will strip and the exhaust will fall off in a weeks time.
2. Carefully jack up the front of car, make sure that only the 'special' car jacking points are used or the steering wheel will be upside down next time you see it (the special jack points are only known to a select few, not the main dealers!)
3. Locate the Sump Plug, do this using an Inspection Lamp with a 100W bulb - do not, under any circumstances, use a bulb of lower wattage or the splash cover under the engine will melt and pieces will be sucked up into the MAF and then immediate engine failure will occur.
4. Undo Sump Plug whilst humming 'Oil Be Home For Xmas' - do NOT sing any other song or the Radio will never tune into any local stations again and the aerial will need to be replaced at the next service.
5. Allow Oil to drain into a Tupperware Perspex Jug - use only perspex as other plastics react with the old oil and particles travel back through the draining oil and attack the Big-End Bearings.
6. Whilst Oil is draining run around car 15 times in a Morris Dancing Outfit with the special Subaru bells attached to shoes.
7. Remove Oil Filter by unscrewing anti-clockwise 5 times, then clockwise 2 times, continue until filter is free ..... failure to do this will result in the new Filter not filling up with Oil on start-up.
8. Fill Oil Filter with Oil and screw new Oil Filter on and replace Sump Plug - there is some discussion about the order that these need to be replaced, many an evening in a B.O. smelling corner of a dark pub has been spent mulling over the merits of both choices ..... there is a 'special' way, but we are not sure what it is yet.
9. Start filling the engine with Oil - Synthetic only please!! and of course, Subarus need 'special' Oil - Mobil made a 'special' Oil just for us!!
10. Now it gets complicated, the engine start procedure ...... remove the spark plugs, coil packs and battery - remove the seats and rear boot/tailgate - ensure Octane Booster is removed from tank as it might spontaneously start the car when you are not ready - take the drive belts off - turn engine over, s....l....o....w....l....y - engine should be turned over at least 67 times to ensure adequate Oil film coverage.
11. Return all components and start engine whilst whistling the theme tune to TITANIC ................ if you are VERY lucky the engine will not shoot a con-rod through the block (this normally happens to MY96 cars which are MicaPink in colour) - but ALL Model Years can be affected equally as bad.
12. If the engine started without any problems, then don't be smug as the MAF sensor will blow up your engine within 3 days in any case!!!!!
OR, do as the Main Dealers do:-
Change Oil - start engine - check for Oil drips - return to customer!!
The Oil Change according to the Old Ladies on here:-
1. Remove Oil Filler Cap, 'gently' - take at least 5 minutes or the threads will strip and the exhaust will fall off in a weeks time.
2. Carefully jack up the front of car, make sure that only the 'special' car jacking points are used or the steering wheel will be upside down next time you see it (the special jack points are only known to a select few, not the main dealers!)
3. Locate the Sump Plug, do this using an Inspection Lamp with a 100W bulb - do not, under any circumstances, use a bulb of lower wattage or the splash cover under the engine will melt and pieces will be sucked up into the MAF and then immediate engine failure will occur.
4. Undo Sump Plug whilst humming 'Oil Be Home For Xmas' - do NOT sing any other song or the Radio will never tune into any local stations again and the aerial will need to be replaced at the next service.
5. Allow Oil to drain into a Tupperware Perspex Jug - use only perspex as other plastics react with the old oil and particles travel back through the draining oil and attack the Big-End Bearings.
6. Whilst Oil is draining run around car 15 times in a Morris Dancing Outfit with the special Subaru bells attached to shoes.
7. Remove Oil Filter by unscrewing anti-clockwise 5 times, then clockwise 2 times, continue until filter is free ..... failure to do this will result in the new Filter not filling up with Oil on start-up.
8. Fill Oil Filter with Oil and screw new Oil Filter on and replace Sump Plug - there is some discussion about the order that these need to be replaced, many an evening in a B.O. smelling corner of a dark pub has been spent mulling over the merits of both choices ..... there is a 'special' way, but we are not sure what it is yet.
9. Start filling the engine with Oil - Synthetic only please!! and of course, Subarus need 'special' Oil - Mobil made a 'special' Oil just for us!!
10. Now it gets complicated, the engine start procedure ...... remove the spark plugs, coil packs and battery - remove the seats and rear boot/tailgate - ensure Octane Booster is removed from tank as it might spontaneously start the car when you are not ready - take the drive belts off - turn engine over, s....l....o....w....l....y - engine should be turned over at least 67 times to ensure adequate Oil film coverage.
11. Return all components and start engine whilst whistling the theme tune to TITANIC ................ if you are VERY lucky the engine will not shoot a con-rod through the block (this normally happens to MY96 cars which are MicaPink in colour) - but ALL Model Years can be affected equally as bad.
12. If the engine started without any problems, then don't be smug as the MAF sensor will blow up your engine within 3 days in any case!!!!!
OR, do as the Main Dealers do:-
Change Oil - start engine - check for Oil drips - return to customer!!
13 December 2009, 10:25 PM
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OK, let's get a bit scientific here ..... please tell us how many blobeyes, exactly, which have gone '**** up' ... then we can ascertain what problem it really is.
List their states of tune, if they were tracked after oil change, and the Service History of each vehicle.
Then we can work on your answer.
List their states of tune, if they were tracked after oil change, and the Service History of each vehicle.
Then we can work on your answer.
13 December 2009, 10:28 PM
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It's the usual SN scaremongery ..... one car may break down, maybe within 1000 miles of an Oil change, it is running 800 BHP and was thrashed within an inch of its life ..... then, all of a sudden, quite by magic the Oil change was to blame and they are ALL blowing up 
13 December 2009, 10:58 PM
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its prob because most people think if the oil costs 50 quid a bottle its got to be good even tho its the wrong spec for there engine, if the engine spec says 10/40 then use the right oil its speced that way for a reason, unless your having the engine rebuilt with different clearances that require different spec oil.
adam
adam
13 December 2009, 11:23 PM
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But, if you are worried, adhere to this Oil Change Procedure:-
The Oil Change according to the Old Ladies on here:-
1. Remove Oil Filler Cap, 'gently' - take at least 5 minutes or the threads will strip and the exhaust will fall off in a weeks time.
2. Carefully jack up the front of car, make sure that only the 'special' car jacking points are used or the steering wheel will be upside down next time you see it (the special jack points are only known to a select few, not the main dealers!)
3. Locate the Sump Plug, do this using an Inspection Lamp with a 100W bulb - do not, under any circumstances, use a bulb of lower wattage or the splash cover under the engine will melt and pieces will be sucked up into the MAF and then immediate engine failure will occur.
4. Undo Sump Plug whilst humming 'Oil Be Home For Xmas' - do NOT sing any other song or the Radio will never tune into any local stations again and the aerial will need to be replaced at the next service.
5. Allow Oil to drain into a Tupperware Perspex Jug - use only perspex as other plastics react with the old oil and particles travel back through the draining oil and attack the Big-End Bearings.
6. Whilst Oil is draining run around car 15 times in a Morris Dancing Outfit with the special Subaru bells attached to shoes.
7. Remove Oil Filter by unscrewing anti-clockwise 5 times, then clockwise 2 times, continue until filter is free ..... failure to do this will result in the new Filter not filling up with Oil on start-up.
8. Fill Oil Filter with Oil and screw new Oil Filter on and replace Sump Plug - there is some discussion about the order that these need to be replaced, many an evening in a B.O. smelling corner of a dark pub has been spent mulling over the merits of both choices ..... there is a 'special' way, but we are not sure what it is yet.
9. Start filling the engine with Oil - Synthetic only please!! and of course, Subarus need 'special' Oil - Mobil made a 'special' Oil just for us!!
10. Now it gets complicated, the engine start procedure ...... remove the spark plugs, coil packs and battery - remove the seats and rear boot/tailgate - ensure Octane Booster is removed from tank as it might spontaneously start the car when you are not ready - take the drive belts off - turn engine over, s....l....o....w....l....y - engine should be turned over at least 67 times to ensure adequate Oil film coverage.
11. Return all components and start engine whilst whistling the theme tune to TITANIC ................ if you are VERY lucky the engine will not shoot a con-rod through the block (this normally happens to MY96 cars which are MicaPink in colour) - but ALL Model Years can be affected equally as bad.
12. If the engine started without any problems, then don't be smug as the MAF sensor will blow up your engine within 3 days in any case!!!!!
OR, do as the Main Dealers do:-
Change Oil - start engine - check for Oil drips - return to customer!!
The Oil Change according to the Old Ladies on here:-
1. Remove Oil Filler Cap, 'gently' - take at least 5 minutes or the threads will strip and the exhaust will fall off in a weeks time.
2. Carefully jack up the front of car, make sure that only the 'special' car jacking points are used or the steering wheel will be upside down next time you see it (the special jack points are only known to a select few, not the main dealers!)
3. Locate the Sump Plug, do this using an Inspection Lamp with a 100W bulb - do not, under any circumstances, use a bulb of lower wattage or the splash cover under the engine will melt and pieces will be sucked up into the MAF and then immediate engine failure will occur.
4. Undo Sump Plug whilst humming 'Oil Be Home For Xmas' - do NOT sing any other song or the Radio will never tune into any local stations again and the aerial will need to be replaced at the next service.
5. Allow Oil to drain into a Tupperware Perspex Jug - use only perspex as other plastics react with the old oil and particles travel back through the draining oil and attack the Big-End Bearings.
6. Whilst Oil is draining run around car 15 times in a Morris Dancing Outfit with the special Subaru bells attached to shoes.
7. Remove Oil Filter by unscrewing anti-clockwise 5 times, then clockwise 2 times, continue until filter is free ..... failure to do this will result in the new Filter not filling up with Oil on start-up.
8. Fill Oil Filter with Oil and screw new Oil Filter on and replace Sump Plug - there is some discussion about the order that these need to be replaced, many an evening in a B.O. smelling corner of a dark pub has been spent mulling over the merits of both choices ..... there is a 'special' way, but we are not sure what it is yet.
9. Start filling the engine with Oil - Synthetic only please!! and of course, Subarus need 'special' Oil - Mobil made a 'special' Oil just for us!!
10. Now it gets complicated, the engine start procedure ...... remove the spark plugs, coil packs and battery - remove the seats and rear boot/tailgate - ensure Octane Booster is removed from tank as it might spontaneously start the car when you are not ready - take the drive belts off - turn engine over, s....l....o....w....l....y - engine should be turned over at least 67 times to ensure adequate Oil film coverage.
11. Return all components and start engine whilst whistling the theme tune to TITANIC ................ if you are VERY lucky the engine will not shoot a con-rod through the block (this normally happens to MY96 cars which are MicaPink in colour) - but ALL Model Years can be affected equally as bad.
12. If the engine started without any problems, then don't be smug as the MAF sensor will blow up your engine within 3 days in any case!!!!!
OR, do as the Main Dealers do:-
Change Oil - start engine - check for Oil drips - return to customer!!
Bravo
