Simple Diagnostic When Buying?
#1
Simple Diagnostic When Buying?
Im looking at buying a UK BugEye WRX in the next few weeks, nice looking car and seems straight but im just very cautious as its the most expensive car ive bought so im trying to think of everything I can do to lessen the risk of getting a dog.
I HPI'd it and its come back as stolen recovered in 2007 with some damage but light and unrecorded. That doesnt put me off much really, im seeing it as more of a haggling point. Would you guys be overly concerned? I guess it woulda been ragged when it was stolen but if its lasted 2 yrs since then cant have been too screwed. Also, its an impreza, its made to be driven like its stolen right??
I know its recently had a new PAS pump and coolant reservoir, are these common issues or signs of something more sinister?
Ive got a cheapo OBD2 diagnostic tool and ScanTools software which i used to reset a service light on my Clio. I just wondered first of all, is the bugeye OBD2, and also, is it worth quickly hooking it up when i go to see the car? If there are faults will it always bring the engine management light on? I guess its worth checking anyway just incase someone has taken the bulb out!
Last question is if it is OBD2, where is the connector on a UK bugeye?
Any other tips on things to look for would be appreciated.
Thanks
Andrew
I HPI'd it and its come back as stolen recovered in 2007 with some damage but light and unrecorded. That doesnt put me off much really, im seeing it as more of a haggling point. Would you guys be overly concerned? I guess it woulda been ragged when it was stolen but if its lasted 2 yrs since then cant have been too screwed. Also, its an impreza, its made to be driven like its stolen right??
I know its recently had a new PAS pump and coolant reservoir, are these common issues or signs of something more sinister?
Ive got a cheapo OBD2 diagnostic tool and ScanTools software which i used to reset a service light on my Clio. I just wondered first of all, is the bugeye OBD2, and also, is it worth quickly hooking it up when i go to see the car? If there are faults will it always bring the engine management light on? I guess its worth checking anyway just incase someone has taken the bulb out!
Last question is if it is OBD2, where is the connector on a UK bugeye?
Any other tips on things to look for would be appreciated.
Thanks
Andrew
Last edited by f8rdy; 02 January 2010 at 09:00 PM.
#4
Gearbox, make sure there are no crunches, specially 3rd gear and make sure 1st gear doesn't whine too much. Wind the steering wheel on full lock and listen out for diff clicking...there shouldn't be any at all.
Yes it has an OBD connector directly below the steering wheel column and OBD diagnostic software that has a reset function should be able to read all of the OBD DTC's and should be able to reset the bugeye ECU. You won't be able to read SSM (Subaru Select Monitor) parameters, no big deal though. When you plug in make sure you read the historic DTC's to see what's gone on in the past, and ask questions.
Just make sure you're not getting any noise from the bottom end or potential piston slap noises when cold. Make sure you start it up from stone cold and don't rev it at all, just listen to it ticking over on cold idle. If there is a lot of steam/condensation from cold and still lots when it's warmed up it could be head gasket issue, and white smoke could well be a turbo issue. TD04 Turbo's don't whine so if it does it will need replacement.
PAS pump went on mine too so if it's been replaced all well and good.
What mileage is it??
Yes it has an OBD connector directly below the steering wheel column and OBD diagnostic software that has a reset function should be able to read all of the OBD DTC's and should be able to reset the bugeye ECU. You won't be able to read SSM (Subaru Select Monitor) parameters, no big deal though. When you plug in make sure you read the historic DTC's to see what's gone on in the past, and ask questions.
Just make sure you're not getting any noise from the bottom end or potential piston slap noises when cold. Make sure you start it up from stone cold and don't rev it at all, just listen to it ticking over on cold idle. If there is a lot of steam/condensation from cold and still lots when it's warmed up it could be head gasket issue, and white smoke could well be a turbo issue. TD04 Turbo's don't whine so if it does it will need replacement.
PAS pump went on mine too so if it's been replaced all well and good.
What mileage is it??
#5
Thanks for that! Some good tips there.
Its on 80K at the moment and he wants 4500 for it, hoping to chip that a little bit, maybe 4250 looks to be standard except for a bailey dump-valve (unless they were standard on some models?).
Ive heard that 80K is the mileage that the bug-eyes can start to play up but its a struggle to find one for reasonable money thats substantially less than 80K.
Hoping theyre open today so i can have a little look!
Its on 80K at the moment and he wants 4500 for it, hoping to chip that a little bit, maybe 4250 looks to be standard except for a bailey dump-valve (unless they were standard on some models?).
Ive heard that 80K is the mileage that the bug-eyes can start to play up but its a struggle to find one for reasonable money thats substantially less than 80K.
Hoping theyre open today so i can have a little look!
#6
80K is a fair bit of mileage but doesn't necessarily mean it'll be a dog or die on you soon. Just make sure it's got a full subaru service history, has been serviced before you buy, and get a decent warranty on it from the dealer as part of the deal (12mths).
Bailey Dump valves aren't standard. If you buy the car lose the Bailey and go back to the Recirculating Bypass Valve which does a cracking job up to way more horsepower than the std WRX internals will take.
I'm pretty sure there will be other WRX's floating around with less mileage that haven't been molested in any way at all. Pick one up that's completely bog std in every way.
Nearly std cars with silly things on them like aftermarket bovs i treat with caution and it often tells me to stay away. Aftermarket Bovs can and do cause issues and if it's been on a long time there's no telling what's occured internally without a proper drive and some inspection.
'You pays your money, you takes your choice'
Bailey Dump valves aren't standard. If you buy the car lose the Bailey and go back to the Recirculating Bypass Valve which does a cracking job up to way more horsepower than the std WRX internals will take.
I'm pretty sure there will be other WRX's floating around with less mileage that haven't been molested in any way at all. Pick one up that's completely bog std in every way.
Nearly std cars with silly things on them like aftermarket bovs i treat with caution and it often tells me to stay away. Aftermarket Bovs can and do cause issues and if it's been on a long time there's no telling what's occured internally without a proper drive and some inspection.
'You pays your money, you takes your choice'
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