The running in period of a new Impreza
28 February 2001, 12:16 AM
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Maddy thanks for bringing this subject up as I soon will be running a new Scoob in and will be trying to complete the process in as short a time as possible.
But what I would like to find out from someone who is more knowledgeable than myself on the subject of running engine's in, is would running it in, in a short time period of say 24 hrs have a detrimental effect on the engine's well being?
What I am saying is that does running the car in, say over a 1 month period with more instances of heating up and cooling down of the Pistons, Rings etc lead to a more durable and reliable car or does it not matter if there is sustained extended use in the first 1000 miles?
Also after the car has been run in, is it ok to use fully synthetic oil or should it be a semi-synthetic. If you have to use a semi-synthetic at what point is it then ok to use a fully synthetic oil?
Can anyone help me on these points?
Thanks Ian
[This message has been edited by ian/555 (edited 28 February 2001).]
But what I would like to find out from someone who is more knowledgeable than myself on the subject of running engine's in, is would running it in, in a short time period of say 24 hrs have a detrimental effect on the engine's well being?
What I am saying is that does running the car in, say over a 1 month period with more instances of heating up and cooling down of the Pistons, Rings etc lead to a more durable and reliable car or does it not matter if there is sustained extended use in the first 1000 miles?
Also after the car has been run in, is it ok to use fully synthetic oil or should it be a semi-synthetic. If you have to use a semi-synthetic at what point is it then ok to use a fully synthetic oil?
Can anyone help me on these points?
Thanks Ian
[This message has been edited by ian/555 (edited 28 February 2001).]
28 February 2001, 12:21 AM
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For every new car I've ever owned, including the Subarus, I've kept it below 3000rpm for the first 500 miles, then increased it by 500rpm every 250 miles thereafter.
So:
up to 500 miles - max 3000rpm
500 to 750 miles - max 3500rpm
750 to 1000 miles - max 4000rpm
etc., etc., until
2500 onwards - max 7500rpm (redline on my Legacy RS
)
So the car's fully run in at 2500 miles. For me, that's still less than one month's driving so it's no hardship to stay relatively restrained for that time. Even if the engine doesn't need run in (a la Honda S2000), everything else does - brakes, suspension, tyres(!), so blasting it from day 1 is going to shorten the life of lots of components, not just the engine.
Also, it's REALLY IMPORTANT (if you're hoping for a long life from the engine) not to let the engine labour during the running-in period either, and to vary the speed within the rev range rather than run at a constant speed.
Never had an engine let go on me yet, so it works for me ....
Brian
[This message has been edited by HunterB (edited 28 February 2001).]
So:
up to 500 miles - max 3000rpm
500 to 750 miles - max 3500rpm
750 to 1000 miles - max 4000rpm
etc., etc., until
2500 onwards - max 7500rpm (redline on my Legacy RS
)So the car's fully run in at 2500 miles. For me, that's still less than one month's driving so it's no hardship to stay relatively restrained for that time. Even if the engine doesn't need run in (a la Honda S2000), everything else does - brakes, suspension, tyres(!), so blasting it from day 1 is going to shorten the life of lots of components, not just the engine.
Also, it's REALLY IMPORTANT (if you're hoping for a long life from the engine) not to let the engine labour during the running-in period either, and to vary the speed within the rev range rather than run at a constant speed.
Never had an engine let go on me yet, so it works for me ....
Brian
[This message has been edited by HunterB (edited 28 February 2001).]
28 February 2001, 12:32 AM
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Ignoring the 4000/occasional higher revs argument, I'd second HunterB's advice about not labouring the engine.
As for why it makes an engine more powerful, I'm not sure. I think it's something to do with the mechanical side (pistons, bores etc) not the ECU.
As for why it makes an engine more powerful, I'm not sure. I think it's something to do with the mechanical side (pistons, bores etc) not the ECU.
28 February 2001, 04:32 AM
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I had mine from new...
...I had a couple of moments where I exceeded 4000 rpm (I even had an emergency situation where I almost red-lined it, but I had to get out trouble) - for the most part, I kept it below that speed.
Here's a tip though, put her in 3rd gear and gently build up to full load (but do not exeed 5k or so on the tach) on a gentle slope. Do this a few times - it helps bed-in the piston rings. You *will* get a slightly more powerful engine, and the engine should be all the better for it.
Regards,
Daniel.
...I had a couple of moments where I exceeded 4000 rpm (I even had an emergency situation where I almost red-lined it, but I had to get out trouble) - for the most part, I kept it below that speed.
Here's a tip though, put her in 3rd gear and gently build up to full load (but do not exeed 5k or so on the tach) on a gentle slope. Do this a few times - it helps bed-in the piston rings. You *will* get a slightly more powerful engine, and the engine should be all the better for it.
Regards,
Daniel.
28 February 2001, 08:07 AM
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Hi Maddy,
Had mine from new; ran it in by the book (max 4000 rpm for 1000 miles) with the odd accidental excursion - that needle goes round so fast
One word of advice given to me was that during the running in period you should avoid running for long periods at the same rpm. Since I was bringing mine in from Holland, this was a useful tip for on their motorways.
After the 1000 miles I didn't go mad either, and steadily worked the revs round over a period. Now done 7500 and its sweet. You may think that the engine becomes more powerful as the mileage increases. I think it has on mine but can't prove it.
At the end of the day 4000rpm is 100mph in top, so running in should be no real inconvenience.
Adan
Had mine from new; ran it in by the book (max 4000 rpm for 1000 miles) with the odd accidental excursion - that needle goes round so fast
One word of advice given to me was that during the running in period you should avoid running for long periods at the same rpm. Since I was bringing mine in from Holland, this was a useful tip for on their motorways.
After the 1000 miles I didn't go mad either, and steadily worked the revs round over a period. Now done 7500 and its sweet. You may think that the engine becomes more powerful as the mileage increases. I think it has on mine but can't prove it.
At the end of the day 4000rpm is 100mph in top, so running in should be no real inconvenience.
Adan
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28 February 2001, 08:27 AM
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Agree with Josh and Adan - had mine since new (1 year old tomorrow 
). Run it in by the book and have now done 21000 faultless miles with no problems (apart from some clutch judder that was fixed under warranty)
Chris
). Run it in by the book and have now done 21000 faultless miles with no problems (apart from some clutch judder that was fixed under warranty)Chris
28 February 2001, 08:37 AM
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Oooh here we go then...
I don't agree with the running in period as specified.
I kept mine by the book until 400 miles then starting upping the limit by 1000rpm for every 100 miles (I've got an STi). I didn't hold it at high revs just occasionally revved it higher. I think it's better to do this than to drive at 4000 until 1000 miles and then use full revs.
Manufacturers specify running in for their benefit, not yours. If you thrash the t1ts off it from day one, you're more likely to have large warranty claims which they don't want. It's certainly true on bikes that if you want more power, you cane it straight away. I don't think it's quite the same with cars but there's a certain amount of similarity...
I don't agree with the running in period as specified.
I kept mine by the book until 400 miles then starting upping the limit by 1000rpm for every 100 miles (I've got an STi). I didn't hold it at high revs just occasionally revved it higher. I think it's better to do this than to drive at 4000 until 1000 miles and then use full revs.
Manufacturers specify running in for their benefit, not yours. If you thrash the t1ts off it from day one, you're more likely to have large warranty claims which they don't want. It's certainly true on bikes that if you want more power, you cane it straight away. I don't think it's quite the same with cars but there's a certain amount of similarity...
28 February 2001, 08:53 AM
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Just had to replace my Scooby after three problem free years (I've now got an Evo6).
I've got to say I'm with RichardF on this one.
When I got the Scooby, I was advised to keep it under 4000rpm up to 500 miles, and then raise the limit by 500rpm for each 100 miles thereafter. Also told not to do any constant speed motorway driving.
Interestingly, Ralliart recommended a similar procedure when I got my new Evo. The only difference was an imposed limit of 3500rpm up to 500 miles, adding 1000rpm to the limit for every 100 miles thereafter.
I guess it's up to you how you choose to run it in, but as long as you avoid travelling at a constant speed for a long time (which causes glazing of the cylinder bores), then you should be okay with any of the methods mentioned here. Just don't thrash it too hard, too soon.
Andy.
I've got to say I'm with RichardF on this one.
When I got the Scooby, I was advised to keep it under 4000rpm up to 500 miles, and then raise the limit by 500rpm for each 100 miles thereafter. Also told not to do any constant speed motorway driving.
Interestingly, Ralliart recommended a similar procedure when I got my new Evo. The only difference was an imposed limit of 3500rpm up to 500 miles, adding 1000rpm to the limit for every 100 miles thereafter.
I guess it's up to you how you choose to run it in, but as long as you avoid travelling at a constant speed for a long time (which causes glazing of the cylinder bores), then you should be okay with any of the methods mentioned here. Just don't thrash it too hard, too soon.
Andy.
28 February 2001, 09:53 AM
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My dealer said that i could cane the cars **** from new (MY01 WRX). But the scooby manual (i know - i am sad - i did read it) said keep it below 4000 revs and dont hold it at the same rpm for long stretches. The dealers head of servicing rang me about the running in. He said that with todays modern oils you can pretty much go for it - but said he thought i should take it easy for the first 1000 miles. But he said it was important not to drive the car really slowly, instead keeping the throttle down and engine loaded so its having to work.
Just dont go redline happy and you should be ok i reckon.
Jza
Just dont go redline happy and you should be ok i reckon.
Jza
28 February 2001, 10:33 AM
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Well, I had a UK MY00 from new and I ran it in by the book. The car has thinner oil in it until the 1000 mile service, when they put the proper stuff in. The thinner oil offers less protection to the moving parts, allowing them to grind off any rough edges.
Thrashing a car early in its life may (not will) make it more powerful, but will (not may
) shorten its life. If you get lucky, it will be under warranty when it goes bang, if not, then I hope you have deep pockets!
Comparing the Scooby running-in period with another car is pointless, particularly as most new cars don't come suppled with running-in oil that needs changing after 1000 miles. The Honda S2000 comes "already run-in" and can be thrashed from day 1, but that doesn't mean it's good for an Impreza.
If thrashing the nads off a new Impreza is good for it, how come everyone steers clear of demonstrators??
Thrashing a car early in its life may (not will) make it more powerful, but will (not may
) shorten its life. If you get lucky, it will be under warranty when it goes bang, if not, then I hope you have deep pockets! Comparing the Scooby running-in period with another car is pointless, particularly as most new cars don't come suppled with running-in oil that needs changing after 1000 miles. The Honda S2000 comes "already run-in" and can be thrashed from day 1, but that doesn't mean it's good for an Impreza.
If thrashing the nads off a new Impreza is good for it, how come everyone steers clear of demonstrators??
28 February 2001, 11:41 AM
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Thrashing the nads of an Impreza from cold and with no cool down period for the turbo is different from occasionally accelerating above the artificially low rev limit whilst running in.
People steer clear of ex-demos because they (some of them) are abused not because they haven't been driven at 4000rpm for 1000miles.
Given the choice, I'd rather buy a car that's been run in in the way described above than a car that's been run at 4000rpm until 1000 miles and then up to 8000rpm at 1001 miles.
People steer clear of ex-demos because they (some of them) are abused not because they haven't been driven at 4000rpm for 1000miles.
Given the choice, I'd rather buy a car that's been run in in the way described above than a car that's been run at 4000rpm until 1000 miles and then up to 8000rpm at 1001 miles.
28 February 2001, 11:59 AM
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My tuppence worth.
I ran mine in by the book. Not over 4000 once, then changed oil at 1000 miles.
Can anyone offer a reason why it would be more powerful if you ran it in more aggresively? If your ecu was slow to learn, this maybe the caese (not on new impreza's). Otherwise your engine should losen up over time and reach it's full potential.
I don't think mine lacks power from following the book - it was the most powerful non modded car at a rolling road day.
It's not that your car can take 4000rpm at 999 miles, and 7500 at 1001 miles, but that you've changed the oil, getting rid off the bits that have been shaved off in the running in process.
I ran mine in by the book. Not over 4000 once, then changed oil at 1000 miles.
Can anyone offer a reason why it would be more powerful if you ran it in more aggresively? If your ecu was slow to learn, this maybe the caese (not on new impreza's). Otherwise your engine should losen up over time and reach it's full potential.
I don't think mine lacks power from following the book - it was the most powerful non modded car at a rolling road day.
It's not that your car can take 4000rpm at 999 miles, and 7500 at 1001 miles, but that you've changed the oil, getting rid off the bits that have been shaved off in the running in process.
28 February 2001, 12:04 PM
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Have you owned a scooby from new (0-15 miles on the clock), or have good knowledge about the running in period.
If so i'd be interested to hear your opinions and what you recommend i.e take it easy and let it run in , or thrash the b0llocks of it.
Some dealerships say that you should take it easy for the first 1000 miles and never go past 4000 rpm's etc.. as it degrades the life expectancy of your engine , some people say if you drive it hard earlier it will be a faster machine long term.
But with all the advancement of automotive technology haven't these machines been rigorously tested before they leave the factory ?
What did you do when you got yours ?
Cheers
Maddy
If so i'd be interested to hear your opinions and what you recommend i.e take it easy and let it run in , or thrash the b0llocks of it.
Some dealerships say that you should take it easy for the first 1000 miles and never go past 4000 rpm's etc.. as it degrades the life expectancy of your engine , some people say if you drive it hard earlier it will be a faster machine long term.
But with all the advancement of automotive technology haven't these machines been rigorously tested before they leave the factory ?
What did you do when you got yours ?
Cheers
Maddy
28 February 2001, 12:11 PM
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Run it in properly.
Any difference in power would be negligable, and all you'll end up with an old smoker.
IMHO, any dealer who advises drivers to thrash the bollocks off a new car should be strung up by his.
Josh
PS Oh, and yes, I've owned two from new, like many otherson the BBS
Any difference in power would be negligable, and all you'll end up with an old smoker.
IMHO, any dealer who advises drivers to thrash the bollocks off a new car should be strung up by his.
Josh
PS Oh, and yes, I've owned two from new, like many otherson the BBS
28 February 2001, 01:17 PM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Triggaaar:
Can anyone offer a reason why it would be more powerful if you ran it in more aggresively? If your ecu was slow to learn, this maybe the caese (not on new impreza's). Otherwise your engine should losen up over time and reach it's full potential.
I've been told that if you run a new engine slowly for an extended period of time you can glaze the bores, reducing compression. The opposite is also true. Thrash it and it generates more power as you bed the rings in better.
The problem is the bearings like low revs to run in. The 4k limit is sensible for running in but I recomend a few forays to 6k in low gears (but not full throttle!!!) to help the rings. These numbers are based on an STi with the 8k red line.
It has been reported that new motorbikes make more power on the 5th dyno run than the other 4. Presumably for this reason.
The Subaru dealer here in Tokyo told me not to bother running in the engine and there is no oil change before 7.5k KM, but I can get it done as early as 3K KM. I think I'll go for an early change. He also said there was no filter change at this first service, which I am going to insist on. I don't think the 20 quid saving on an oil filter is worth it!
I took my new STi 7 for a gentle bimble around Mt Fuji this weekend and even keeping it to partial throttle & less than 4k it shifts! Best fun I've had in ages, can wait till I can be a hooligan.
500km down, 800 to go :-( Sounds like a great excuse to drive it :-)
Steve
Can anyone offer a reason why it would be more powerful if you ran it in more aggresively? If your ecu was slow to learn, this maybe the caese (not on new impreza's). Otherwise your engine should losen up over time and reach it's full potential.
I've been told that if you run a new engine slowly for an extended period of time you can glaze the bores, reducing compression. The opposite is also true. Thrash it and it generates more power as you bed the rings in better.
The problem is the bearings like low revs to run in. The 4k limit is sensible for running in but I recomend a few forays to 6k in low gears (but not full throttle!!!) to help the rings. These numbers are based on an STi with the 8k red line.
It has been reported that new motorbikes make more power on the 5th dyno run than the other 4. Presumably for this reason.
The Subaru dealer here in Tokyo told me not to bother running in the engine and there is no oil change before 7.5k KM, but I can get it done as early as 3K KM. I think I'll go for an early change. He also said there was no filter change at this first service, which I am going to insist on. I don't think the 20 quid saving on an oil filter is worth it!
I took my new STi 7 for a gentle bimble around Mt Fuji this weekend and even keeping it to partial throttle & less than 4k it shifts! Best fun I've had in ages, can wait till I can be a hooligan.
500km down, 800 to go :-( Sounds like a great excuse to drive it :-)
Steve
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