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Looong time 316i driver out of his depth with 98' Turbo 2000

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Old 22 February 2010 | 11:03 PM
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Default Looong time 316i driver out of his depth with 98' Turbo 2000

Hi all,

My last BMW recently failed its MOT and before I had the chance to buy another I was offered a Turbo 2000 by a friend of a friend for £1000. I agreed to a test-drve and, as Iv'e often fantasized about a scoob ever since the first gran turismo came out I ended up buying it. Naturally, after a week of ownership I have a few questions..

The car is a 98 R with 136k on the clock. It drives worrying well for the price and the body is very good, only a filled corner of the bumper needs painting and a spotlight is missing, the interior is immaculate. It also has a Prodrive WRX style spoiler, twin rear-light clusters, dump valve, induction kit, custom cat-back Peco system, DVD player, subs, the list goes on.. so I'm still very skeptical.

I put 4 new tyres on yesterday and the mechs said the chassic was pretty good, but the rear shocks would need replacing soon. My local Subaru approved garage, over 40 mins drive away, have quoted me £109 each for the OEM shocks and I can only find 'uprated' ones on eBay, but these are cheaper at about £80. Does anyone know a good place to get OEM parts? Or a good Subaru breakers?

The engine runs great and pulls very, very, hard, but i've had to top the oil up on the weekend. I'm using 5, 30 but i'm wondering if this is too thin for the age and mileage of the engine? Or have I just ragged it too much?

Finally the exhaust is too loud and already my neighbors have complained so obviously I'm thinking about a nur spec R baffle. Will one fit my 5" Peco tailpipe? and will it improve economy or badly stifle the engine?

Sorry to write an essay for my first post, but I've stumbled out of the middle lane and onto the rally stage a bit blindly, and I'd love to keep the car going a while longer.

Many thanks
Old 22 February 2010 | 11:12 PM
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a m8 of mine breaks classics m8
he posts in the for sale section on here - MattyBr5 based in wolverhampton

as for the exhaust , u can go to a exhaust centre who should be able to fabricate a bung for yours
Old 22 February 2010 | 11:26 PM
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Or buy a nur spec r complete with bung! They're awsome
Old 23 February 2010 | 08:45 AM
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At 136,000 miles, I'd be surprised if any car didn't use some oil. Can you say what sort of miles are needed between top-ups? You could try thicker oil, might help.

The spotlights aren't. They are foglights and not worth replacing. If you want two, buy a set of driving lights

The problem with used shockers is that you just don't know what you are getting. Why not save up, get a new pair and be secure?
Old 23 February 2010 | 09:23 AM
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Your using a 5w30 oil??!!
do NOT thrash that car and get that oil out ASAP and revert to a 10w40, a 5w30 is too thin (as stated in the handbook) and should not be used at all in a classic.

Tony
Old 23 February 2010 | 10:44 AM
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Also, if the exhaust is too loud forget the bung and the Nur spec and flog it on eBay to someone who doesn't like their neighbours/doesn't care and get a decent box you are happy with.

You won't lose any performance but you might stop someone letting your tyres down!

You sound like a good responsible owner, hope you enjoy the car and as stated - drop that oil asap.

5t.
Old 23 February 2010 | 11:18 AM
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Agree with Tony, 10W40 semi is the oil for a near standard Scoob engine of this age.

New OE shocks can be purchased from Camskill here KAYABA 33 SERIES : KYB EXCEL-G SEALED GAS STRUT - Standard Rear Shock Absorbers - Pair - IMPREZA 2.0i Turbo GC8/GF8 EJ20G EJ205 93 TO 2000 Import :: £114.38 :: Subaru Impreza Turbo Parts, Tuning, Spares & Accessories :: 2.0i Turbo GC8/GF8 93 TO 00 Im
£115 for the pair

Recommend the Prodrive back box for the neighbours sake LOL

And welcome to the club





Last edited by his-n-her-scoobs; 23 February 2010 at 11:20 AM.
Old 25 February 2010 | 12:06 AM
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Thanks for the advice, I will be swapping the 5,30 for the thicker oil as soon as possible. Unfortunately I've been getting mixed dip-stick readings, something in the manual says it needs to be inserted facing a certain way? how could that possibly make a noticable difference?!

..either way I'm a bit over filled and im forced to limp around at 2000 revs til the weekend so you live n learn i guess.
Old 25 February 2010 | 10:10 AM
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The two holes are min and max level, oil cold.

The mark above the holes is max level, oil hot.
Generally oil level is checked cold. It is unusual to have hot marks on the dipstick

The Subaru flat four is famous for retaining oil in the dipstick tube and giving false readings. Remove the dipstick and wait 10 mins for the residual oil to drain from the tube before dipping the oil for a reading. If you are impatient (like me) then clean the neck of the tube and blow gently down the tube to displace the oil. Remember that oil is poisonous if ingested and the tube may be hot so be careful, you do this at your own risk, but you may be surprised at the results
Didn't mention park on level ground, goes without saying.




Last edited by his-n-her-scoobs; 25 February 2010 at 10:17 AM.
Old 25 February 2010 | 07:22 PM
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Thank you very much his-n-hers that sounds exactly like the culprit I will give this a try!
Old 26 February 2010 | 09:57 AM
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subaru always read mixed oil readings when cold it looks low which then people top up but when warm it's overfilled ???
There are cold oil min/max indents on the dipstick and its also 1 litre between min - max
Old 26 February 2010 | 01:18 PM
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Hey all, I've been buying my oil off Oipe website. And they have recommened 5/40 Fully Synthetic. Mines a MY99 V5 STI is it ok to use that oil for it. Ive used it for last 3 sercices though I change the oil every six months.

I also did use there oil recommender
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