Any advice for a scoob noob???
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Bought my first scooby today, picking it up tomorrow!
Its a 99T turbo 2000 AWD, totally standard.
Not sunk in yet!
Up til tuesday everything was fine and i was more than happy with my lovely MR2. That afternoon it failed its MOT in spectacular style and i couldnt even get a quote for the amount of welding it needed!!!!
Put it on autotrader wednesday, sold it tonight to a guy whos going to do all the work on it!
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Was going to look at a BMW 323 coupe tomorrow because i couldnt find an impreza then , last night I gave here a try as a long shot. I actually followed a link to ebay, started lookin on there, and found what i wanted at a garage 2mins away!
Oh, me names Ellie and im 26!
So, anything interesting i should know>???!!
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Yes get used to the petrol station as it'll be your second home for the immediate future![Big Grin](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Welcome to Snet and enjoy, oh and as your a girl you'll no doubt not have to wait long for a pic request (of you that is), to some people on here women are a phenomenon![Big Grin](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Aaron
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Welcome to Snet and enjoy, oh and as your a girl you'll no doubt not have to wait long for a pic request (of you that is), to some people on here women are a phenomenon
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Aaron
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#8
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Being a '99 it has a hotwire MAF, so don't even think about fitting an induction kit as it could lead to engine meltdown. Also, steer clear of VTA dump valves as they can be troublesome on this year of car, and aren't advisable on any Scoob TBH. They ruin the smooth running of the car whilst giving no performance benefit whatsoever. Someone will surely contradict me on this, but a search will reveal many who've tried it and gone back to a recirc item. With some simple exhaust parts allied to a remap you could up the power to maybe 270 (from 208) or so. The chassis and suspension parts are all probably 11yo so focus on those if you start tinkering, a thicker rear ARB being almost essential on any Scoob to dial out the inherent understeer. Make sure it has decent pads too, although the OE 4 pots (front) are good enough as long as the pads are good. Braided lines can improve pedal feel. And remember when driving it, slow in-fast out, progressive and smooth, minimal braking, and if it lets loose don't lift off, keep the power on and pull it out or it will snap out and try to kill you. The 'Bright' switch is for dimming the dash lights, and if your sidelights won't go out, you've accidentally switched on the parking light switch on top of the steering binnacle ! And no, there isn't a hole in the petrol tank.
#9
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Corradoboy got the good advice cornered there!
Although I would say that lifting off throttle in any car during a tail slide is bad idea, and Scoobies aren't the worst. The thicker rear ARB will make it more pronounced. Don't go over 20mm and you will get a very adjustable and naturally neutral handling balance. Along with a wheel alignment...0.0 toe all round (most benign, and saves a smidgen on the fuel budget). Camber at -1.0, all round too, and then give it some more on the front if you find it too neutral for you liking.
Nice looking car :-)
Although I would say that lifting off throttle in any car during a tail slide is bad idea, and Scoobies aren't the worst. The thicker rear ARB will make it more pronounced. Don't go over 20mm and you will get a very adjustable and naturally neutral handling balance. Along with a wheel alignment...0.0 toe all round (most benign, and saves a smidgen on the fuel budget). Camber at -1.0, all round too, and then give it some more on the front if you find it too neutral for you liking.
Nice looking car :-)
#10
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I'd always go for at least a 22mm rear bar, the smoother a driver you are, the thicker you can go. I have a 25mm on our Octavia and it's fine. The 22mm I had on our Scoob left me wanting a 24 at least.
Oh, and don't forget to pop some solid drop-links on whilst you're at it. The OE plastic ones can flex, and even snap !
Oh, and don't forget to pop some solid drop-links on whilst you're at it. The OE plastic ones can flex, and even snap !
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Make sure its got good quality tyres on too like Falken 452's, cheap tyres on these cars could get you into alot of trouble in the wet .......i found this out after going sideways in mine at 60mph on sweeping bend on the motorway last year
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Thanks for all the replies and advice!
Im becoming more acquainted with the petrol station!! Although my MR2 was barely doing 230miles on a full tank (£45-£50)
I was wondering what the 'bright' button was for actually!!
Tyres and cornering? i had an MR2!! Lost the back end on a wet roundabout when i had **** tyres on, that was an expensive mistake!! The scoob is much easier to drive and feels so much more solid.
Its got Avons on it at the minute. Are they any good? I thought the Goodyear Eagle f1's were good when i put them on the back on my 2. Anyone else had them?
Suspension set-up confuses me! ARB is an anti-roll bar? The wider it is the more stability you get????
Droplinks, camber and toe-i know what they are/mean but wouldnt know how it affects the driving!!
I dont plan on putting a dumpvalve on it or anything. Its got an aftermarket exhaust, im not sure what it is yet though. The rest is completely standard.
Ive noticed the carpet in the boot is damp, especially in the corners-any ideas what might cause it?
Also, its a bit chuggy (cant think of a better word!!) when boosting. When i put my foot down and the turbo has kicked in, its as if its trying to clear itself-any ideas??
thanks
Ellie
x
Im becoming more acquainted with the petrol station!! Although my MR2 was barely doing 230miles on a full tank (£45-£50)
I was wondering what the 'bright' button was for actually!!
Tyres and cornering? i had an MR2!! Lost the back end on a wet roundabout when i had **** tyres on, that was an expensive mistake!! The scoob is much easier to drive and feels so much more solid.
Its got Avons on it at the minute. Are they any good? I thought the Goodyear Eagle f1's were good when i put them on the back on my 2. Anyone else had them?
Suspension set-up confuses me! ARB is an anti-roll bar? The wider it is the more stability you get????
Droplinks, camber and toe-i know what they are/mean but wouldnt know how it affects the driving!!
I dont plan on putting a dumpvalve on it or anything. Its got an aftermarket exhaust, im not sure what it is yet though. The rest is completely standard.
Ive noticed the carpet in the boot is damp, especially in the corners-any ideas what might cause it?
Also, its a bit chuggy (cant think of a better word!!) when boosting. When i put my foot down and the turbo has kicked in, its as if its trying to clear itself-any ideas??
thanks
Ellie
x
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If you have damp in the boot that could be coming in through the rear lights, maybe the car had different rear lights in it before and the standards have been dropped back into sell it. Easy enough to unbolt and push the rear units out and then re seal, you really need that black stuff that does not fully dry... not sure what it is called but someone will be along to advise that.
I'm running the Year 2000 model on a W plate and corradoboy has covered most of it, the MAF is the weak point in the 99/00 models... I would suggest you drop a new one on since you do not know how old the one fitted is, keep yours in the boot then as a spare you know your safe then. the 99/00 models do have a surging sensation slightly at times, mine did it before it was re mapped. New MAF is around £85 from memory.
Stick your head under the rear of the car and the bar that runs from side to side is the ARB anti roll bar, you will see it is attached by black plastic "U" shaped drop links... by upgrading the arb and putting steel drop links on you will reduce body roll greatly when cornering, you can also have steel drop links fitted on the front to. You can get them in alloy but steel one's are cheaper.
Before you go buying tyres there's loads of 17" or 18" wheels and tyres available both new and second hand on here. Reasearch is the way forward![Thumb](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
Welcome to the forum... and don't be suprised is someone asks you for a picture with a loaf of bread on your head
I'm running the Year 2000 model on a W plate and corradoboy has covered most of it, the MAF is the weak point in the 99/00 models... I would suggest you drop a new one on since you do not know how old the one fitted is, keep yours in the boot then as a spare you know your safe then. the 99/00 models do have a surging sensation slightly at times, mine did it before it was re mapped. New MAF is around £85 from memory.
Stick your head under the rear of the car and the bar that runs from side to side is the ARB anti roll bar, you will see it is attached by black plastic "U" shaped drop links... by upgrading the arb and putting steel drop links on you will reduce body roll greatly when cornering, you can also have steel drop links fitted on the front to. You can get them in alloy but steel one's are cheaper.
Before you go buying tyres there's loads of 17" or 18" wheels and tyres available both new and second hand on here. Reasearch is the way forward
![Thumb](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
Welcome to the forum... and don't be suprised is someone asks you for a picture with a loaf of bread on your head
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Last edited by Silver Scooby Sport; 15 March 2010 at 09:32 PM.
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Welcome to Scoobynet Ellie and lovely classic, enjoy it ![Thumb](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
(Silver Scooby Sport is spot on IMO with diagnosing the wet in the corner of your boot as most likely coming in around the rear lights.....otherwise check boot/rear window seals)
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(Silver Scooby Sport is spot on IMO with diagnosing the wet in the corner of your boot as most likely coming in around the rear lights.....otherwise check boot/rear window seals)
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The lights can leak, if you notice water in them then that's a big givaway, chances are its the spoiler seals, best to remove the carpet/liner and solid liner and see if you have any rust forming, water will build up in with the spare tyre so look out for that.
Would recommend a large bottle of redex to clear the injectors out, also best to run on something like tesco 99 or better still, shell v power, if that doesn't clear the boosting issue then it could be the boost solenoid or the maf sensor on the way out, if you google subaru fault codes it will point you to scoobypedia and look for how to reset the ecu, and give that a shot![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Now for the pics and some of the car![Wink](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Tony
Would recommend a large bottle of redex to clear the injectors out, also best to run on something like tesco 99 or better still, shell v power, if that doesn't clear the boosting issue then it could be the boost solenoid or the maf sensor on the way out, if you google subaru fault codes it will point you to scoobypedia and look for how to reset the ecu, and give that a shot
![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Now for the pics and some of the car
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Tony
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Oh if you give the general area where you live then people will be able to recommend garages and local subaru clubs to you, example is nuneaton (hopefully not
) and that would be the west mids subaru club.
Tony
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Tony
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well all the hints of a pic of our new scoob owner and she hasnt posted one.
So I will be blunt!!!!!
Can you post a pic of your self please?
Even better if your scantily clad draped over your new car.......
So I will be blunt!!!!!
Can you post a pic of your self please?
Even better if your scantily clad draped over your new car.......
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And Ellie - nice scoob
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ive always wanted an mr2... chose to get the scoob instead .. . though im still thinking about the mr. ive a 98uk t. had it 4 years with only 1 prob being the gearbox breaking once. its got straight through every m.o.t though.
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