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oil pressure and temp gauge

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Old 26 May 2010 | 02:46 PM
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dannyboygti
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Default oil pressure and temp gauge

ive looked on here but carnt find a guide on fitting these to a classic i have all the senders and so on just dont no where they go any1 that can tell me would be a lifesave thanks in advance
Old 26 May 2010 | 04:27 PM
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temp there is a blanking plug underneath intercooler, pressure goes in hole where the oil sender is now behind alternator, you wil need a t piece to fit this.
https://www.scoobynet.com/interior-1...and-boost.html
try this link
Old 27 May 2010 | 09:20 AM
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ive put the pressure switch in the blank plug under the inlet behind the alternator

any1 no what sort of readings i should get from the pressure gauge as ive neva had 1 before thanks
Old 27 May 2010 | 10:09 AM
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Blank plug behind the alternator? There wasn't one on mine, 98 UK car, mine went into the hole the original OP switch came out of. You don't need a T-piece, just discard the OE switch, by the time it triggers, the engine is fekked anyway.

As for pressure: depends on your engine. Mine, newly rebuilt 2.5 conversion, ticks over at 4 bar cold and goes to 7.5 bar when running. It shows 3 bar on tickover hot and 6 bar running hot. That's with relatively thin running in oil in it, Carlube.

Oil temp: the sender goes in the place of the blanking plug on top of cylinder No3, the rear cylinder, driver's side. Look down in front of the intercooler: the plug is about 25mm across and has an 8mm socket head in it. You need a LONG Allen key to remove it. The hole it comes out of isn't 25 mm, the plug is wide at the top. You MAY need an adaptor though, ask whoever sold you the gauges. My adaptor was about £8. DO NOT overtighten, and DO use PTFE tape around threads.

Temps range from 90 degrees running normal, to just over 100 at high speed long distance. My highest showed 125, but the engine had just lost it's big end bearings
Old 27 May 2010 | 10:09 AM
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From: Rl'yeh
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Blank plug behind the alternator? There wasn't one on mine, 98 UK car, mine went into the hole the original OP switch came out of. You don't need a T-piece, just discard the OE switch, by the time it triggers, the engine is fekked anyway.

As for pressure: depends on your engine. Mine, newly rebuilt 2.5 conversion, ticks over at 4 bar cold and goes to 7.5 bar when running. It shows 3 bar on tickover hot and 6 bar running hot. That's with relatively thin running in oil in it, Carlube.

Oil temp: the sender goes in the place of the blanking plug on top of cylinder No3, the rear cylinder, driver's side. Look down in front of the intercooler: the plug is about 25mm across and has an 8mm socket head in it. You need a LONG Allen key to remove it. The hole it comes out of isn't 25 mm, the plug is wide at the top. You MAY need an adaptor though, ask whoever sold you the gauges. My adaptor was about £8. DO NOT overtighten, and DO use PTFE tape around threads.

Temps range from 90 degrees running normal, to just over 100 at high speed long distance. My highest showed 125, but the engine had just lost it's big end bearings
Old 27 May 2010 | 10:15 AM
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mines a 95 import has the oem 1 ust behind the crank sensor and there was a blank plug behnd the alternator to the right so it went in there mines in psi on idle its about 20 has bein upto 80 but dosnt seem to go up much wen im driving about is that right or wroung
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