Dspeed

What have people done who have retained their std airbox but removed the wing res box?
Just left the box open to the wing? Ducted it to the front? Im considering ducting it back into the std air scoop under the bonnet just without the res box. Any pics be good?

Splitpin

What car do you have and why are you considering removing the resonator? If as per some of your other posts it's a late classic (or a newage) and you are running a MAF based ECU, my advice would be to leave it in place.

You will gain nothing by removing it, and in my experience you can lose some airflow measurement accuracy, which can knock into the ECUs load and mixture/timing calculations. Indeed Harvey found a small power loss when he did a back to back with/without test.

Dspeed

Yea final year classic. Ok, I shall certainly think again then, as i do still have avenues to persue, this was just a cheap one.

vindaloo

Note: what I've read, not done...

Leaving it open isn't brilliant as the air under the wing is potentially dirty and hot. I've seen (either on here or on NASIOC) people use plastic elbows or similar to re-join the pipework.

http://www.scoobymods.com/intake-sil...=&threadid=113

^^^ HTH.

Another option is to remove the rubber seal from above the RHS headlight and re-connect the pipework using the factory intake.

J.

WhiteWagonMan

iTrader: (34)

It only benefits a modified car/setup from what im led to believe,so if its a standard non mapped unmodded car leave well alone mate as your man above has already said.

Dspeed

Mines moddifed currently running between 290 and 300BHP.

Boydey77

I removed the resonator box on mine and replaced it with one of these elbows, mine was only about £20 tho.

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...ow-p-4330.html

Splitpin

As above, you're better off leaving the resonator in place, even moreso if you have a custom map.

The only point at which removal would constitute a net benefit is if you're above the power level where the standard induction tract starts to become a bottleneck - a good 60bhp+ above where you are at the moment. Once you're at that level, you would probably find yourself changing the entire inlet tract rather than simply deleting bits of it.

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

I'm running 340/340 with the standard airbox, all bits in place, will only remove when I go to an induction kit

scoober101

Same here, got one of these elbows/airbox delete pipes, mine was a GP Moto Intake Elbow from the US. Got it as part of an intake install project I did - https://www.scoobynet.com/members-ga...ake-setup.html

Splitpin

Nice write-up. So what differences did this modification make to power figures, or mass airflow measurement? Did you see any increase in pulsation/turbulence, and if so how pronounced was the effect (and could the ECU's error correction strategy cope with it adequately)?

scoober101

Honestly not a clue, I didnt do any kind of technical measuring, it was purely a mini project to take a traditional induction kit and modify it to create something half way between the factory sealed intake and an induction kit without allowing hot air from the engine bay to enter the filter. Has it made a difference? - Not sure really but its been running fine like this for over a year without any noticeable problems. Until I get a remap sometime in the near future I wont know if it made any real difference.

Splitpin

Blimey. Well, I hope for the sake of precaution you're at least running some sort of AFR/knock monitor, or had the load mixtures checked after you'd fitted it.

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

you need to be careful about the engine running lean ...... I'd get it mapped asap, still be interesting to see the differences too

vindaloo

Dspeed's classic might benefit from a SAMCO or newage TIP around your power level. The newage ones have a better shape.

(Read it in Scoobymag - now departed )