Just bought my first Scoob !
#1
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Just bought my first Scoob !
Hi everyone,
I've not long joined this site and have just bought myself a V3 type R, I couldnt be happier with it.
Its in very good condition and the performance blows me away as I've never owned a car even near as powerful
Now to be honest, I don't know to much about the car, so I'm hopefully here to learn.
It has full stainless stell exhaust, panel filter, equal length headers and the boost has been upped to 1 bar. I was told it should be running about 330 bhp, but no proof of this, what do you think?
What would I need to do if i wanted to turn the boost up, I noticed it goes upto 2 ? If you were me and you wanted more performance what would be the next thing you would do engine wise ?
I would like a dump valve but I've read a few posts from people who don't rate them, why is this? If I was to get one which would be recommended ?
Sorry for the big long blether but I'd appriciate some input.
Thanks
I've not long joined this site and have just bought myself a V3 type R, I couldnt be happier with it.
Its in very good condition and the performance blows me away as I've never owned a car even near as powerful
Now to be honest, I don't know to much about the car, so I'm hopefully here to learn.
It has full stainless stell exhaust, panel filter, equal length headers and the boost has been upped to 1 bar. I was told it should be running about 330 bhp, but no proof of this, what do you think?
What would I need to do if i wanted to turn the boost up, I noticed it goes upto 2 ? If you were me and you wanted more performance what would be the next thing you would do engine wise ?
I would like a dump valve but I've read a few posts from people who don't rate them, why is this? If I was to get one which would be recommended ?
Sorry for the big long blether but I'd appriciate some input.
Thanks
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Welcome
I wouldnt put the boost up at all tbh, get the car health checked, 1 bar is lowish for 330bhp, if the car still has the standard turbo, it could have the fuelling up the shoot too, it doesnt sound very convincing that the previous owner had much of a clue about tuning, most people would have gone for an aftermarket ecu to control the fuelling/boost as its the best way of doing so, and what fuel are you using? did the previous owner give you any clues to what you need to run this car on?
Tony
I wouldnt put the boost up at all tbh, get the car health checked, 1 bar is lowish for 330bhp, if the car still has the standard turbo, it could have the fuelling up the shoot too, it doesnt sound very convincing that the previous owner had much of a clue about tuning, most people would have gone for an aftermarket ecu to control the fuelling/boost as its the best way of doing so, and what fuel are you using? did the previous owner give you any clues to what you need to run this car on?
Tony
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Using V-Power Tony, I'm not that clueless
So you think I should buy an ECU and get a decent remap then ?
To be fair I'm happy with the power anyway, what are your thoughts on a dump valve ?
To be fair to the previous owner he did keep it in very good condition, heres the ad if youd like to have a nosey
click
So you think I should buy an ECU and get a decent remap then ?
To be fair I'm happy with the power anyway, what are your thoughts on a dump valve ?
To be fair to the previous owner he did keep it in very good condition, heres the ad if youd like to have a nosey
click
Last edited by stef_2010; 24 July 2010 at 12:00 PM.
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Dont go for the dump valve, standard one is better and esl are going to release their chip for the 97/98 cars very shortly, that will be your cheapest option, still go for a health check though just dont turn that boost controller up especially not to 2
Tony
Tony
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The dump valve/turbo myth about it keeping the turbo spinning, it actually dumps the gasses, where as the standard one re circulates the gasses, you need gasses, thats what keeps the turbo running so no gasses = lag
The ESL chip will mean that the ecu can be remapped, so a much cheaper option than fitting a 500-1200 quid ecu
Tony
The ESL chip will mean that the ecu can be remapped, so a much cheaper option than fitting a 500-1200 quid ecu
Tony
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The dump valve/turbo myth about it keeping the turbo spinning, it actually dumps the gasses, where as the standard one re circulates the gasses, you need gasses, thats what keeps the turbo running so no gasses = lag
The ESL chip will mean that the ecu can be remapped, so a much cheaper option than fitting a 500-1200 quid ecu
Tony
The ESL chip will mean that the ecu can be remapped, so a much cheaper option than fitting a 500-1200 quid ecu
Tony
One more question, I know the subaru got a facelift around V5 time, are the headlights enterchangable between pre facelift and facelift as I really like the crystal ones ?
O and how do I get a health check ? rolling road ?
#9
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Hi everyone,
I've not long joined this site and have just bought myself a V3 type R, I couldnt be happier with it.
Its in very good condition and the performance blows me away as I've never owned a car even near as powerful
Now to be honest, I don't know to much about the car, so I'm hopefully here to learn.
It has full stainless stell exhaust, panel filter, equal length headers and the boost has been upped to 1 bar. I was told it should be running about 330 bhp, but no proof of this, what do you think?
What would I need to do if i wanted to turn the boost up, I noticed it goes upto 2 ? If you were me and you wanted more performance what would be the next thing you would do engine wise ?
I would like a dump valve but I've read a few posts from people who don't rate them, why is this? If I was to get one which would be recommended ?
Sorry for the big long blether but I'd appriciate some input.
Thanks
I've not long joined this site and have just bought myself a V3 type R, I couldnt be happier with it.
Its in very good condition and the performance blows me away as I've never owned a car even near as powerful
Now to be honest, I don't know to much about the car, so I'm hopefully here to learn.
It has full stainless stell exhaust, panel filter, equal length headers and the boost has been upped to 1 bar. I was told it should be running about 330 bhp, but no proof of this, what do you think?
What would I need to do if i wanted to turn the boost up, I noticed it goes upto 2 ? If you were me and you wanted more performance what would be the next thing you would do engine wise ?
I would like a dump valve but I've read a few posts from people who don't rate them, why is this? If I was to get one which would be recommended ?
Sorry for the big long blether but I'd appriciate some input.
Thanks
Welcome
Get use to driving the car, like you say, the performance blows you away as you have never owned a car with this power and you are happy with it (your words!)
Like TB says, get it health checked for the fuelling and det ect. Brakes, tyres and suspension are more important that dump valves and extra boost. No good having loads of power if you can't keep it on the black stuff If it's running a standard ECU then you only have 0.1-0.2 bar left before you start hitting the safety cut so not worth bothering with.
I would say on standard ECU you will be around 280bhp, don't fall for pub figures get it to a decent scoob specialist (where in the country are you??) who will tell you what has been done to the engine/ecu which in turn will tell you the next steps to take to get more power. Dump valves tend to mess up the fuelling and cause over fuelling and bore wash.
Use the search on here and as you said 'learn'
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Stef the only difference in the std and a dump valve is one recirculates the excess air back in to the inlet tract and the other vents it to the atmosphere,henceforth you hear a noise(pssssssttt). The std valve on your model year being plastic can crack ,but are generally are good for 300 bhp+.As tony says your car will run ok with this fitted.If you do fit a dump valve you might find your car pops and bangs a bit more as they vent to air,which causes the engine to run slightly richer than normal,especially when lifting off after heavy acceleration.If you are still insistent on buying one,then get a good well made one,ie ,blitz,hks,turbo smart, iam not saying the rest are rubbish ,but more peole tend to have running issues with the bailes,forge and jap copies imho.
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Mine, as standard, made 289bhp. Then with an exhaust, maybe about 310bhp, or was it just the quicker spool made it feel quicker?
Anyway, if you want more power, do it the sensible way - plenty of people on here to tell you what to/not to do.
Anyway, if you want more power, do it the sensible way - plenty of people on here to tell you what to/not to do.
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Mine, as standard, made 289bhp. Then with an exhaust, maybe about 310bhp, or was it just the quicker spool made it feel quicker?
Anyway, if you want more power, do it the sensible way - plenty of people on here to tell you what to/not to do.
Anyway, if you want more power, do it the sensible way - plenty of people on here to tell you what to/not to do.
#15
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I would say on standard ECU you will be around 280bhp, don't fall for pub figures get it to a decent scoob specialist (where in the country are you??) who will tell you what has been done to the engine/ecu which in turn will tell you the next steps to take to get more power. Dump valves tend to mess up the fuelling and cause over fuelling and bore wash.
Use the search on here and as you said 'learn'
Use the search on here and as you said 'learn'
The main thing is you have a pretty quick car at the momment ,get it checked over by someone who knows what there doing ,then enjoy driving it
p.s welcome aboard
Last edited by midnight; 24 July 2010 at 12:58 PM.
#16
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Stef the only difference in the std and a dump valve is one recirculates the excess air back in to the inlet tract and the other vents it to the atmosphere,henceforth you hear a noise(pssssssttt). The std valve on your model year being plastic can crack ,but are generally are good for 300 bhp+.As tony says your car will run ok with this fitted.If you do fit a dump valve you might find your car pops and bangs a bit more as they vent to air,which causes the engine to run slightly richer than normal,especially when lifting off after heavy acceleration.If you are still insistent on buying one,then get a good well made one,ie ,blitz,hks,turbo smart, iam not saying the rest are rubbish ,but more peole tend to have running issues with the bailes,forge and jap copies imho.
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It's not a complete no to DV's, I've run a Forge ever since i've had mine, but i have a chipped ECU and the fuelling is fine, like i said if you change things from 'standard' then you need to address the effects
Whats up with ya headlights, besides being sh1te when you need them
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Do I have a facelift grill aswell ? So I can buy the 1997-2001 headlights (which tell me I need the bonnet and the grill) and I wont have a problem ?
Nothing, I just think the crystal ones make the car look so much cleaner, I've got money burning a hole in my pocket
Can't help you out with a good scoob tuner in Scotland am afraid, but someone will
It's not a complete no to DV's, I've run a Forge ever since i've had mine, but i have a chipped ECU and the fuelling is fine, like i said if you change things from 'standard' then you need to address the effects
Whats up with ya headlights, besides being sh1te when you need them
It's not a complete no to DV's, I've run a Forge ever since i've had mine, but i have a chipped ECU and the fuelling is fine, like i said if you change things from 'standard' then you need to address the effects
Whats up with ya headlights, besides being sh1te when you need them
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Well spotted Dan, he sure will
these are recommended
See Bob'5 here
these are recommended
See Bob'5 here
Last edited by Glowplug; 24 July 2010 at 04:36 PM.
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Dump Valves sound great and I have been tempted myself but resisted as people say re circulatory is better and to-atmosphere is only worthwhile when pushing severe horse power