the_big_1

iTrader: (1)

Hi All,

What would guys expect the cost to be, if you had to have either:

Head gasket change,
Piston rings change

The car is a 2006 2.5 STI

Cheers!

bigsinky

depends what you want. oem gaskets, rings. cosworth items? what?

the_big_1

iTrader: (1)

All standard I think

p.rite.sh

one headgasket change by dealers is approx £700 (including skimming the head) on a spec D

Have yours gone? If so, i recommend stripping the whole lot and changing any part shoting a weakness...else it could mean a new engine in the future (fortunatley mine is all warranty work but they only did the head gaskets initially, then found piston ring problems, cracked pistons etc etc)

If your having it built again, may be worth considering forged pistons - i would have but unfortunatley its dealer work, so they wont...

the_big_1

iTrader: (1)

Hi ya,

I am getting a smell of exhaust gass in the expansion tank and something is upsetting the knock sensor.
I couldnt afford a rebuild etc, just want it fixed correctly by an inderpendant like Thwaits here in Warwick.

STI Mav

Echo these comments.

Had the head gasket go on my 06 STI, and ended up with a bill for around £1500 for the head gasket (some of which was warranty covered). Shortly after though, I had very high oil consumtion amongst other issues and decided to part-x rather than face the repair costs.

the_big_1

iTrader: (1)

Mine is using oil, always had since I had it though.
Was there any idea what was causing that on yours?

p.rite.sh

Mine started with head gaskets - dealer fixed under waranty
Kept drinking oil, approx 5L per 1k miles rolled it back in to which the dealer said they could not see any problems
Another dealer did a few tests and something was wrong, rolled it back to where I bought it, got in touch with IM Group and a new engine under warranty.

I would complete the lot, else you may run into the problem I am faced with now, a hyundai courtesy car whilst a new engine is being built for mine.

its a large upfront cost vs an even higher long term cost in the future...fortunatley, and very fotunatley my problems started within 1st week of buying the car from the dealer.

p.rite.sh

ah, they say the oil consumption was due to head gaskets intially followed by piston rings

the_big_1

iTrader: (1)

So you guys think the best thing to do is a new engine?

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Thing is, if you need to replace rings, you really need to deglaze the bores. And to do that you should strip the whole engine so all the metal particals can be flushed and cleaned out.

Not doing that would leave a big question mark on how long the engine (or turbo) would last after its been put back together.

In the end of the day, with the engine out, the ancillaries and heads removed. You are 70% there to having the whole engine stripped; all thats left is to remove the sump a few bits and bobs, and split the block and remove the rods. That way the main/bigend bearings can be inspected and replaced if deamed too worn to be reused. That way you may be able to reuse the crank (whereas if the big ends get worn to the point they start knocking, you'll probably need a new crankshaft by then).

When you say "new" engine do you mean brand new, rebuilt and warrantied, or a 2nd hand one? (the latter of which maybe worse than you one you already have ...I've been there, done that and seen it happen to others so many times on so many different cars, not just Subaru).

the_big_1

iTrader: (1)

I am just gutted this car has cost me so much so far and now this. It uses oil and smells of exhausts in the exspansion tank, hesitant about 2.5k rpm. Other than that nothing, no smoke, no over heating, no loosing coolant or water contaminated oil or oil contaminated water etc.

p.rite.sh

most likely piston rings, define hesitant, i was in your shows about three months ago, and as the dealer only did 70% of the job and not the full 100%, im still in your shoes bud.

the_big_1

iTrader: (1)

Its retarding the ignition and causing the hesitation if that helps?

bigsinky

dont forget the new oil pump and modine. A must when doing a rebuild IMHO. you just don't know where the engine has left swarf.

the_big_1

iTrader: (1)

Who's good for this sort of job and not going to over charge etc?

cheers,

Carl

bigsinky

how long is a piece of string mate. backyard cheap garages who know **** all about subarus are cheap for a reason. you need to find a subaru specialist who has a track record of producing sound engines. do not expect this to be cheap btw. both heads, reskim, gaskets etc don't expect much change from £1k. dealer prices will be considerably more and i personally would let some 18 year old monkey in a dealership near my car.

the_big_1

iTrader: (1)

Deffo dont want cheap and nasty.
I have been quoted £1700 plus VAT, sound ok? Who would you guys contact?

Butty

iTrader: (2)

I sorted a forged short engine for about £1500 from Paul at Finch Motorsport.
This was to cure a head gasket problem.
I bit the bullet and decided to put in forged pistons as the std ones are suspect (as you seem to have found).
The engine rebuild cost was kept low by renting out space and facilities at Zen Performance

the_big_1

iTrader: (1)

I have to get the car sorted quick as it is my day to day car so has to be off the road to a minimum. I never drive the car past 4.5k rpm, drive it hard etc so a simple rebuild would do me. No plans of upping the performance or anything like that. I just want it right and on the road.

Butty

iTrader: (2)

Rebuilds don't come quick n cheap on engines that last.
A rebuild using std parts seems pointless as the dealer price for parts will be the same if not more expensive than aftermarket forged/uprated items that overcome the 2.5 issues of HGs and ringland damage.
Labour will make up some 50% of the costs and to skimp on this area is asking for trouble.

If you want a quick turn around, there are companies offering ready built but uprated engines to swap in a day with your unit.
It will at least £3000, but this will be offset by the value of your existing engine.

the_big_1

iTrader: (1)

I am ok say for a week, two weeks etc.
I am looking at about £2k to be abble to afford it, what will get for that?

p.rite.sh

i hate to say, but thats what the end result will be - talking from experience.

bigsinky

new engine would be ideal, but you have to cut the cloth to match the pattern. if you have £2k to spend speak to David at API or Alan jeffery at Engine Tuner. both regulars on here and should give you some good advice on what to do with the money you have to spend.

Butty

iTrader: (2)

£1000 for your existing engine should be achievable, so you have a budget of £3000 for the new engine, install and running in.

APi and Enginetuner are good starting points to see what you can get for that money.

the_big_1

iTrader: (1)

The guy in Warwick isnt 100% convinced its rings etc as the running fault changes with outside temp etc no noices, smoke, coolant loss etc is confusing. going to disconnect off the engine the knock sensor, see if the fault is still to see if its engine noise or a fueling issue and go from there.

53

iTrader: (41)

When you say it hesitates, are we talking momentary fuel cut and ECU light ?

the_big_1

iTrader: (1)

It retards the ignition 7 degrees between 2400 and 3000 rpm then its fine.

53

iTrader: (41)

Any codes ?

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Thats only needed if it had a bottom end fail (as in bearing failure) and the engine allowed to run in this state. Swarf from rehoning bores (or any engine work that creates debris) only finds it way into the pump and modine if the block has not been washed out before re-assembly.

All the same, pump should be inspected for wear, including checking the PRV and its bore, then replace if evidence shows its needed.