Properly stumped...
27 July 2010 | 10:13 PM
#1
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From: in a JDM V7 STi...
Properly stumped...
Car (97 uk turbo) decided couple weeks back it wouldn't 'go' in the rain, i.e. retain revs when starting up, and stall itself (plus CEL).
So I thought crap it's the MAF - took it to enginetuner (helpful as always
) who ran full diagnostics and a rolling road and Martyn said MAF, lamba etc etc is working perfectly fine.So I prayed for a nice day of sunshine at Devon car show (which it was) and ended up having several guys trying to figure out what problem is.
Think we may turned a corner and I am going to replace coil leads, and check spark plugs.
Am I going down the right route or has anyone got other ideas?? Just trying to do cheapest option first!!
Thanks
27 July 2010 | 10:19 PM
#2
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Can anyone swap you a MAF just to try it?
Other than that I'd say check all the rubber hoses, large and small diameter. Spark plugs, check/change and gap correctly. Coil pack. Leads.
When the CEL flashed what code did it give?
Other than that I'd say check all the rubber hoses, large and small diameter. Spark plugs, check/change and gap correctly. Coil pack. Leads.
When the CEL flashed what code did it give?
been there got the t-shirt
27 July 2010 | 11:01 PM
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28 July 2010 | 09:16 AM
#6
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From: in a JDM V7 STi...
code read was starter motor??? Car runs fine without MAF too. (bear with me as I'm not the most knowledgeable as this is my first scoob).
Don't worry I'm not going to buy cheap bits for it - I know better too
Don't worry I'm not going to buy cheap bits for it - I know better too
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28 July 2010 | 10:11 AM
#8
Does the ECU not learn when a sensor is on its way out and compensate accordingly?? So could it learn to run with a faulty MAF [or with out one
]??Staying with that train of thought, if you now reset the ECU, then go to restart the car it should run rough or not at all, you could then read the faults from sctrach and have a better idea of whats causing your problem
I am prepered to be corrected of course
Last edited by Glowplug; 28 July 2010 at 10:13 AM.
28 July 2010 | 02:01 PM
#10
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From: in a JDM V7 STi...
28 July 2010 | 03:57 PM
#12
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Hi, i had the same problem about a year ago, ive got a 97 uk spec and i have a blitz induction kit with a mini scoop over it, wen it was raining heavily last year and didt use the car for a few days and id try to start, it would start and run lumpy, then if i gave it sum throttle, it would stutter, then would get a pop, bang then a flame from the exhaust and then the engine would cut out. i spoke to paul at Zen and he advised that the induction kit was gettign damp and was giving the maf faulty readings so the engine would cut out, but if i started the car and left to run for 15 mins to warm up and "dry it out" it would be fine, try starting it up and leave for 15 mins
Last edited by scooby350bhp; 28 July 2010 at 04:00 PM.
28 July 2010 | 09:54 PM
#13
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From: in a JDM V7 STi...
Hi, i had the same problem about a year ago, ive got a 97 uk spec and i have a blitz induction kit with a mini scoop over it, wen it was raining heavily last year and didt use the car for a few days and id try to start, it would start and run lumpy, then if i gave it sum throttle, it would stutter, then would get a pop, bang then a flame from the exhaust and then the engine would cut out. i spoke to paul at Zen and he advised that the induction kit was gettign damp and was giving the maf faulty readings so the engine would cut out, but if i started the car and left to run for 15 mins to warm up and "dry it out" it would be fine, try starting it up and leave for 15 mins
So perhaps suggest a different induction kit or air filter???
28 July 2010 | 11:21 PM
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well the car had been sat there for a few days with heavy rain so i must assume the induction kit absorbed all the rain and moisture, then wen i started it it was giving the MAF faulty meter readings.. but unlike yours mine was fine running with no CEL unless i touched the accelerator then it would stutter pop, bang flame then cut out, luckily no one was standing behind the car at the time otherwise they would of been bbq'd
what induction kit are you running?
what induction kit are you running?
29 July 2010 | 10:26 AM
#18
had the same prob in damp weather with same filter . changed it to a stainless mesh filter. while you are at it get someone to remove the coil packs and use 25mm heatshrink on the end of coil packs where the rubber meets the pack . i have done this and never had the problem since
10 August 2010 | 08:27 PM
#20
Take it you never changed the cone for the O/E box then
Rear brakes, get the wheels off and remove calipers and pads, clean/check/replace as nesissary, remove the discs as the hand brake shoes/pads are behind/inside them
Rear brakes, get the wheels off and remove calipers and pads, clean/check/replace as nesissary, remove the discs as the hand brake shoes/pads are behind/inside them
Last edited by Glowplug; 10 August 2010 at 08:28 PM.
10 August 2010 | 10:18 PM
#21
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From: in a JDM V7 STi...
thanks for the advice!Nope didn't change anything. Need to sort out the hesitancy(sp?) when moving off from 1st/2nd. Still will do coil leads/spark plugs.
11 August 2010 | 09:42 AM
#22
Found this whilst having me brekky, proper bit of advice
It's probably the calipers more than a handbrake problem , it might just be the sliders , you can remove these quite easily , there are tow bolts around the back of the calipers holding the hydraulic part of the caliper to the caliper carriers , remove these 2 bolts and lift the caliper out of the way , and take out the sliders , these just pull out , they should move freely , if not clean them up , if need be hand turn a drill bit in the holes in the carriers to clean them out , re-grease them and fit them back in.
Check that the pads haven't got stuck in place , clean off around the ends of the pads , and where they sit in the carriers , if these are corroded in place it might cause these problems.
The last thing it could be , which is more involved if you don't know what your doing , it could be the caliper piston corroded or seized , you could get someone to pump the pedal gently to get the piston to come out of the caliper some of the way , peel back the seal and check it out , if its just caked in dust or muck , you could clean them gently with some WD40 and a scouring pad , they should move back into the calipers fairly easily , if not then they really need to be taken out , checked , replaced if they are rusty , and the top lip in the bore of the calipers cleaned off of any rust or muck.
I have made some stainless steel pistons for these that don't rust if you do need a piston , can also supply seal kits , or even recondition your caliper
Cheers Ian
01656 723060
Check that the pads haven't got stuck in place , clean off around the ends of the pads , and where they sit in the carriers , if these are corroded in place it might cause these problems.
The last thing it could be , which is more involved if you don't know what your doing , it could be the caliper piston corroded or seized , you could get someone to pump the pedal gently to get the piston to come out of the caliper some of the way , peel back the seal and check it out , if its just caked in dust or muck , you could clean them gently with some WD40 and a scouring pad , they should move back into the calipers fairly easily , if not then they really need to be taken out , checked , replaced if they are rusty , and the top lip in the bore of the calipers cleaned off of any rust or muck.
I have made some stainless steel pistons for these that don't rust if you do need a piston , can also supply seal kits , or even recondition your caliper
Cheers Ian
01656 723060
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