Hi folks,

Picked up my new baby today after a 7 1/2 hour round journey - here she is on the advert - http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2339989.htm

Really happy with it, such an improvement over my old car

I experienced a few things on the way home which have lead me to asking some questions

Clutch biting point is very high but no signs of slipping, is the pedal height adjustable at all?

Noticed on the motorway, 60mph or so, boot it in 5th and slight hesitation followed by a 'kick' in acceleration, is this overboost or normal behaviour? I come to this suspicion after a bit of research tonight as I found out whilst viewing the car has had a de-cat, not sure on which one, will check receipts in the morning but I would 100% say it was probably never mapped afterwards

Also suffering bad wind noise from the factory fitted sunroof and window seals, but only noticeable of speeds pushing just over 100, on my private runway

Think that's it for now...

It's also all standard engine wise and I'm wondering if I need to really pay for a remap, due to the decat, what am I best upgrading before I spend the money on it? Not looking for big power but nice gains without breaking the bank. Fuel pump? Intercooler? Injectors? No idea...

Ok thanks in advance and when I recover from today I'm sure there will be plenty more to ponder about

 

will need remap if it has decat - looks a really nice car - same as mine. Good luck with it.
Get an uprated fuel pump, full system (if not already), silicone hose on intercooler like prodrive PPP one., bin the heat shield and wrap the turbo. If clutch is very high then may be on way out - maybe. Intercooler is fine and also injectors. If you get all that then you could see 260 - 280bhp depending on health of engion and map. Any more and you will need Andy Forrest Hybrid TD04 for around 300bhp and then it will be Td05 16 G or VF 34./35 for around 330bhp. Would not go over that on a UK car. Would be safe to change injectors at that point for safety. Good luck mate. To be honest a well sorted TD04 with agressive map and sorted suspension can be a great road car. That is what I did in the end. Power is not every thing - but tempting and you begin to go down the road of no return and ruin the car in my opinion. All the best once again looks a clean car.

 

Thanks fella

Which fuel pump should I be looking for if I'm going to start on the original turbo?
I take it you can get aftermarket hoses for the intercooler then?
Anyone got any other advice on my other questions or advice in general?

Thanks

 

walbro 255

samco or similar.

pedal is not adjustable.

if its not been mapped for the decat you will see boost spikes, particularly on WOT in fifth.

MY99 has 440 injectors so you will be OK up to 330ish although an adjustable FPR isn't a bad idea.

add a fuel pump, fmic, ported headers and matched up-pipe before you get the car mapped; will reduce spool and charge temps making a nice drive even on the standard TD04.

Is the sunroof steel or glass; steel is a factory fit, glass is dealer retro fit.

hth.

Ian

 

Steel mate

 

I'm slightly jealous then

Possibly the rubbers have perished given their age...not sure on cost though

 

My clutch was high on the 2000 Turbo I had for over 3 years, nothing to worry about, never needed to be replaced.

Breakdown cover would probably be advisable if you are worried about being stranded though.

Enjoy!

 

Yeah did think it may just be a rubber replacement issue, anyone have an idea on cost?

I guess I'll just have to get used to the clutch pedal, shame it's not slightly adjustable

Also got slightly rough idle, being picky here but it does dip a little low at times, is this a simple clean up of the ICV?

 

I had this on mine too, turned out the MAF needed replacing.

Under the steering column are some leads which you can plug together to find out if you have any errors codes. Do a search as off the top of my head I can't remember how to do it.

 

Here you go:

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...eadingECUCodes

Under the heading Manually reading ECU codes.

Good website with lots of info so worth bookmarking.

 

two green clips that need to be connected, just need a torch and they are easily visable

 

Say on that link the black clips

 

Yeah it's the black ones

 

green on my MY00...sorry at work so can't see any pictures.

 

has it been de-catted, i.e. different downpipe or is it just the centre & rear exhaust sections been replaced as per advert?? only one cat on the car and its in the downpipe.

the hesitation you get - is it around the 2.5k/3k rpm mark? the MY99/00 cars all seem to do it, aswell as plugs, leads n MAF, clean out the boost control solenoid piping it ill help ease its little hesitation.

 

Any advice on where to clean what?

The exhaust is the centre and rear sections, so I'm guessing that has removed the 2nd cat and there is only one left on the downpipe?

Exhaust sections fitted are : http://www.tsl-motorsport.co.uk/news...0008&detail=37 & http://www.tsl-motorsport.co.uk/news...0008&detail=35

 

there is a guide in the how-to's section for cleaning it out if i remember correctly

and yep the only cat is in the downpipe. the centre section is just a silencer and not actually a cat

 

For piece of mind, i'd be having a new maf fitted

 

From subaru? Easy to fit yourself I suppose just order it from them

 

From Subaru or any decent specialist. £80-£90 i would think and a 5 minute job to fit.

 

I'll get one next week I reckon just to be sure as think it's on it's original and I believe 99 was a bad year for MAF's

 

A very bad year

 

Very Nice

I'm biased though cos blue's always best

 

if your MAF has a green stripe on it it'll be one of the later MAF's, they where redesigned after about 3yrs - its only the early ones that originally came in the 99/00 cars from the factory that where bad

but for piece of mind sake, and the fact they are only £70-90 worth changing.

 

This green strip be obvious?

 

yeah you can see it beside the part number on it even when fitted. its on the edge of the maf where it fits into the intake pipe

 

All of my classics have had adjustable clutch pedals, yours should be no different. You just need to be flexible enough to have a look under the pedal, you can adjust to get the bite lower.

 

Ok I'll have a look, thank you