came back worser than it went in
#1
came back worser than it went in
Right then some of you guys might have read my posts about my cars oil leak well it went back to be repaired the engine was stripped and all gaskets and seals resealed including rear main they also fitted a new clutch as it was contaminated it cost the dealer who sold it me 1450 for the repairs well got the car back today and im gutted the car has developed a missfire when u first pull off and higher up the revs and feels loads slower than it was before it went in the garage claim to have steam cleaned the engine and said the missfire shud pass but the engine bay is minging still The intercooler is now fouling the strut brace causing it to rattle like hell they said it was liek this before they stripped the engine but funny really as it never once rattled or anythin liek that before it went in and also a weird one the bonnet stay wont stay in the clip it keeps popping out due to that little pipe coming out of the radiator cap if that makes sense im so gutted been waiting ages for the car to come back only good thing that has came of it is the oil leak has gone and the clutch judder has gone im not going to name the garage in question just yet as they have agreed to have a look tomorrow i just hope they sort it for me as i have really gone off the car ive only owned it since the 10th of this month and its not the same car anymore i just want the car to perform how it did when i brought it as i loved it then
#4
Looks like you don't have much look with cars..............and the money they give you for your part x was private sale money which I found a little odd. I get the feeling they wanted shot of the Subaru for one reason or another.
#5
i knw yer im really unlucky yer maybe but the dealer is paying for all the work out of his own pocket he could of just told me to get lost etc but fair play to him he never he's trying his best to get it sorted for me i just cant think what could be causing the missfire on it and for the loss of power
#6
well dropped the car to them this morning they are still convinced my miss fire is down to them jet washing the engine but i werent having none of it will be picking it up this afternoon if its still the same and they refuse to help then i will be naming and shaming them on here as its there fault that the car is running rough
#7
well dropped the car to them this morning they are still convinced my miss fire is down to them jet washing the engine but i werent having none of it will be picking it up this afternoon if its still the same and they refuse to help then i will be naming and shaming them on here as its there fault that the car is running rough
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#10
cheers for all that mate its much appreciated i just hope it comes back how it was before as i loved the power and having a big smile on my face will keep you updated
#11
Can you describe the misfire in more detail? ie, is it the same at cold start as once warmed up? what type of misfire is it? does it happen at any revs or only at or between a particular range? Does it get worse as the car gets hotter?
Is it running on 3 cylinders?
I took the heads off my legacy (essentially a twin turbo classic STi engine) last year to change the gaskets with little previous knowledge of doing that type of work, although I did have the help of a friend who totally rebuilt a 5 cylinder turbo audi engine in the past. When the engine went back together there was a 'misfire' problem which only happened once warmed up, got progressively worse as it got hotter leading to pops from exhaust and eventually the CAT overheat warning light came on.
It was running on 3 cylinders due to no spark. After lots of investigation and head scratching I eventually discovered the cause was due to the cam wheel not being on perfectly true and straight on the cam shaft. This was the wheel that the cam sensor takes it's reading from which sends signal to the ECU for spark.
It's far to easy to get the wheel on slightly off-square to the shaft without realising it, and if one didn't know about that it would easily go un-noticed. (I only noticed as the cam sensor was scored due to the cam wheel 'rocking' in and out as it turned).
This may or may not be the cause of your issue, but the point is an un-experienced (with subaru) garage/mechanic could easily miss something like this and even a trained subaru specialist could make that mistake if not paying total attention.
If you want to check that on yours it's easy, just remove the pass. side cam belt cover (10mm ratchet spanner) and at the top you can see the cam sensor (there is a wire going to it from towards the back of the engine bay). Run the car and see if the wheel moves straight relative to the sensor as it turns. If it does then that's not your issue, if it varies in distance as it turns (oscillates) then that could cause loss of spark on one or more cylinders.
Like I said that's an easy check you can do yourself so worth a look.
Good luck
Is it running on 3 cylinders?
I took the heads off my legacy (essentially a twin turbo classic STi engine) last year to change the gaskets with little previous knowledge of doing that type of work, although I did have the help of a friend who totally rebuilt a 5 cylinder turbo audi engine in the past. When the engine went back together there was a 'misfire' problem which only happened once warmed up, got progressively worse as it got hotter leading to pops from exhaust and eventually the CAT overheat warning light came on.
It was running on 3 cylinders due to no spark. After lots of investigation and head scratching I eventually discovered the cause was due to the cam wheel not being on perfectly true and straight on the cam shaft. This was the wheel that the cam sensor takes it's reading from which sends signal to the ECU for spark.
It's far to easy to get the wheel on slightly off-square to the shaft without realising it, and if one didn't know about that it would easily go un-noticed. (I only noticed as the cam sensor was scored due to the cam wheel 'rocking' in and out as it turned).
This may or may not be the cause of your issue, but the point is an un-experienced (with subaru) garage/mechanic could easily miss something like this and even a trained subaru specialist could make that mistake if not paying total attention.
If you want to check that on yours it's easy, just remove the pass. side cam belt cover (10mm ratchet spanner) and at the top you can see the cam sensor (there is a wire going to it from towards the back of the engine bay). Run the car and see if the wheel moves straight relative to the sensor as it turns. If it does then that's not your issue, if it varies in distance as it turns (oscillates) then that could cause loss of spark on one or more cylinders.
Like I said that's an easy check you can do yourself so worth a look.
Good luck
#12
the missfire is like the car is really hesitant when u first put your foot down and seems to have a really bad flat spot
well just picked the car up he tells me he's cleaned the inlet out (sprayed some cleaner) and its fine took it out and wasnt as bad but still jerking and then it wouldnt boost any higher than 0.5 bar where as before it boosted at 1.3 i turned the car off and on again and the boost went back to normal but still juddery as hell im livid the garage is called FORESTERS SUBARU BILSTON avoid like the plague!!
well just picked the car up he tells me he's cleaned the inlet out (sprayed some cleaner) and its fine took it out and wasnt as bad but still jerking and then it wouldnt boost any higher than 0.5 bar where as before it boosted at 1.3 i turned the car off and on again and the boost went back to normal but still juddery as hell im livid the garage is called FORESTERS SUBARU BILSTON avoid like the plague!!
Last edited by craigybaby; 25 February 2011 at 05:54 PM.
#13
Really sorry to hear your having so much trouble. Dont let the garage get away with so stick to your guns. I would go back and demand it is sorted or you will do as V4JDMSTI has advised.
This juddering it is doing, what it like?
Andy
This juddering it is doing, what it like?
Andy
#14
it just feels really hesitant you put your foot down when u first pull of and its liek it goes to cut out and when your driving it feels really lumpy and has flat spots
#15
Thats the same lot that done my head gasket. It went again within 1.5 years, although this is before I got it.
Contacted them to ask what work was done, and they would not reply.
Hope you get it sorted fella!
Contacted them to ask what work was done, and they would not reply.
Hope you get it sorted fella!
#16
I would check your spark plugs incase the ceramic is cracked on one of them. It can be a hair line crack that can cause it to spark against the head. Look very carefully, it can be tiny to spot. Also when you remove them take note if any plugs are loose.
#17
well im taking it back again tomorrow as the dealer who sold me the car is fuming and im not having it back till its right i paid alot of money for this car and its turned out to be the biggest mistake ive ever made cheers for the advice andy i will tell them to check that aswell
#19
When I bought my subaru is was fitted with an odd make of timing belt and caused it to be 2deg out.
#20
cheers guys i will also mention that aswell well on the receipt it says the belt cost 70 pound so would that be a genuine one??
Last edited by craigybaby; 25 February 2011 at 07:58 PM.
#22
#26
yer it came with 3 months rac warranty but because the dealer knew about the oil leak before he sold it me he paid for it to be repaired himself
Last edited by craigybaby; 25 February 2011 at 10:45 PM.
#29
well dropped it there this morning he seemd really moody tbf i jus told him i dont want the car back till its 100% he did say it could be the maf sensor due to it having a induction kit but like i said it was running perfectly when i took it there
#30
well just got a phone call they said they have plugged it in and its coming up air mass meter is that the maf sensor??? they cant get one till monday though i just hope it cures it