Why Would Forged Engine Fail After 10k
#1
Why Would Forged Engine Fail After 10k
I had one engine failure and do the right thing by having it forged.
I look after it properly gentle running in period on running in oil.
Then i have it mapped by a reputable mapper using apexi power fc.
Then i cover 8k over the following 2yrs and nothing for another 2 ish years, but i do start it once or twice every couple of months let it run for 10 minutes and then switch off.
So then i bring the old girl out of retirement, treat her to a simtec with two maps one for 95 ron and the other for 98 vpower.
I don't put 95 in always put 97 or above on the trip over to croatia and only twice did i put in half a tank of something other than shell.
Then when i get here i use 100 ron on the 95 ron map.
Just after opinions as to wtf went wrong so i don't find myself in this situation again.
Surley these engines are not that bad.
Iv'e had loads of cars and never any big engine failures, i drive with mechanical sympathy, never above 7k rpm as the max bhp is around 6.5k rpm anyway so there is no reason to go above that and i don't want to stress the engine and gearbox, the softcut was set around 7.2k rpm and the hard at 7.5k and i never touched either.
Reason for thread is i just want to know what else could have gone wrong because in my eyes and experience engines don't do this especially given the care and attention i have lavished on this one.
And i really don't want to spend another 2k+ to have this happen again.
ffs i have a rover 200 thats more reliable.
I look after it properly gentle running in period on running in oil.
Then i have it mapped by a reputable mapper using apexi power fc.
Then i cover 8k over the following 2yrs and nothing for another 2 ish years, but i do start it once or twice every couple of months let it run for 10 minutes and then switch off.
So then i bring the old girl out of retirement, treat her to a simtec with two maps one for 95 ron and the other for 98 vpower.
I don't put 95 in always put 97 or above on the trip over to croatia and only twice did i put in half a tank of something other than shell.
Then when i get here i use 100 ron on the 95 ron map.
Just after opinions as to wtf went wrong so i don't find myself in this situation again.
Surley these engines are not that bad.
Iv'e had loads of cars and never any big engine failures, i drive with mechanical sympathy, never above 7k rpm as the max bhp is around 6.5k rpm anyway so there is no reason to go above that and i don't want to stress the engine and gearbox, the softcut was set around 7.2k rpm and the hard at 7.5k and i never touched either.
Reason for thread is i just want to know what else could have gone wrong because in my eyes and experience engines don't do this especially given the care and attention i have lavished on this one.
And i really don't want to spend another 2k+ to have this happen again.
ffs i have a rover 200 thats more reliable.
#4
No pics as yet.
Gentle warm up as always as where i am is a twisty single track road, takes about ten minutes to the main road.
wait until temp hits 90 then bit of boost but there are villages that i go through so max is 5k rpm on a couple of streches before the bends come again then about 3miles before the main town drive like miss daisy behind a truck but i always do this to let the turbo cool down saw 100 on oil temp.
Park up for half an hour get back in drive out of town wait for temp to rise to 90 then boost and give it a bit of a leg stretch as the town i'm headed to has about a 3mile ish bit that it's safe to do so, max revs was 6.8 in third then as usual coming into the town slow down for obvious reasons and to let turbo cool saw about 105 on temp gauge.
Left it running on turbo timer but it was down to just above 90 but i could already hear it was knocking came back out of the shop started it and confirmed big end gone.
Just add that the rev counter reads higher than actual by about .2 so actual revs was a bit lower.
Gentle warm up as always as where i am is a twisty single track road, takes about ten minutes to the main road.
wait until temp hits 90 then bit of boost but there are villages that i go through so max is 5k rpm on a couple of streches before the bends come again then about 3miles before the main town drive like miss daisy behind a truck but i always do this to let the turbo cool down saw 100 on oil temp.
Park up for half an hour get back in drive out of town wait for temp to rise to 90 then boost and give it a bit of a leg stretch as the town i'm headed to has about a 3mile ish bit that it's safe to do so, max revs was 6.8 in third then as usual coming into the town slow down for obvious reasons and to let turbo cool saw about 105 on temp gauge.
Left it running on turbo timer but it was down to just above 90 but i could already hear it was knocking came back out of the shop started it and confirmed big end gone.
Just add that the rev counter reads higher than actual by about .2 so actual revs was a bit lower.
Last edited by ditchmyster; 22 June 2011 at 08:42 AM.
#6
I have no interest in this turning into a witch hunt as i have a good relationship with them and would like it to remain so.
I take the view that these are highly strung motors and as such are stressed, even though it runs at 285bhp on map 1 and 303 on map 2. again for reasons of mechanical sympathy and my not wanting to find myself in this position again.
I'm not in the blame game, i just want to know what people think so as to be able to rectify the problem and avoid any further failure.
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#8
I'm obsessive about making sure i do everything right with this car.
#11
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After it was sat for a long time and only started up was the oil changed? My friends type R blew up after being sat for a while and only started to drive it in and out of the workshop and it was thought that it had petrol in the oil where it was always on choke and never got up to temp
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#18
A little over 2000 miles 1500 of which was motorway driving at less than 4k rpm and staying off boost to save fuel and the engine as i know they don't like high speed cruising.
This is why i'm so fooked off as i did everything that is supposed to be done, i'm not a scooby newby and know how you should treat these cars.
And i'm going to have to fix it myself, well at least the taking it out and putting it back in bit,fortunatly my mrs is a top bird and apart from calling it a few names she took it rather well, and understands my passion for speed and what the car can do as she was into bikes as well, but hates this car, and i'm starting to agree with her despite still loving the fuuking thing.
This is why i'm so fooked off as i did everything that is supposed to be done, i'm not a scooby newby and know how you should treat these cars.
And i'm going to have to fix it myself, well at least the taking it out and putting it back in bit,fortunatly my mrs is a top bird and apart from calling it a few names she took it rather well, and understands my passion for speed and what the car can do as she was into bikes as well, but hates this car, and i'm starting to agree with her despite still loving the fuuking thing.
Last edited by ditchmyster; 22 June 2011 at 10:05 AM.
#20
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I'm actually quite surprised at the oil temperatures you're seeing.
Where's your sensor located - top of cylinder 3 or in a sandwich plate?
My WRX (std internals) runs 281bhp on the standard TD04 and I rarely see the oil temp go above 80, maybe up to 90 on the motorway when at higher speeds but will then typically come back down to about 85 when cruising. Even if I nail it for a long period I won't see 100 degrees, although perhaps that's because I'm running a less capable turbo?
I run Millers 10W60 in mine which might make a difference to temps - what oil you using?
Where's your sensor located - top of cylinder 3 or in a sandwich plate?
My WRX (std internals) runs 281bhp on the standard TD04 and I rarely see the oil temp go above 80, maybe up to 90 on the motorway when at higher speeds but will then typically come back down to about 85 when cruising. Even if I nail it for a long period I won't see 100 degrees, although perhaps that's because I'm running a less capable turbo?
I run Millers 10W60 in mine which might make a difference to temps - what oil you using?
Last edited by MrNoisy; 22 June 2011 at 10:16 AM.
#21
Go figure, thats why i'm just confused as to what went wrong.
Last edited by ditchmyster; 22 June 2011 at 10:13 AM.
#23
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Did you have any Det warning devices installed mate?
Did the simktek flash up the CEL at all?
So many things can cause failures: could have been a duff sensor, or a fuel supply problem, oil starvation. You need to find out the cause before a rebuild though, otherwise the same thing will only claim the next engine too!
Condolences!!
Did the simktek flash up the CEL at all?
So many things can cause failures: could have been a duff sensor, or a fuel supply problem, oil starvation. You need to find out the cause before a rebuild though, otherwise the same thing will only claim the next engine too!
Condolences!!
#24
I'm actually quite surprised at the oil temperatures you're seeing.
Where's your sensor located - top of cylinder 3 or in a sandwich plate?
My WRX (std internals) runs 281bhp on the standard TD04 and I rarely see the oil temp go above 80, maybe up to 90 on the motorway when at higher speeds but will then typically come back down to about 85 when cruising. Even if I nail it for a long period I won't see 100 degrees, although perhaps that's because I'm running a less capable turbo?
I run Millers 10W60 in mine which might make a difference to temps - what oil you using?
Where's your sensor located - top of cylinder 3 or in a sandwich plate?
My WRX (std internals) runs 281bhp on the standard TD04 and I rarely see the oil temp go above 80, maybe up to 90 on the motorway when at higher speeds but will then typically come back down to about 85 when cruising. Even if I nail it for a long period I won't see 100 degrees, although perhaps that's because I'm running a less capable turbo?
I run Millers 10W60 in mine which might make a difference to temps - what oil you using?
Sensor on top of cylinder 3, 90 and slightly below at normal driving and cruising and then more spirited driving sees it rise to around the hundred mark but this is never for long periods of time 3/4 miles at most and then i wait a bit and go again obviously depending on where i'm going road and traffic conditions, i'm not doing long journeys or lots of fast driving though it does get driven quickly but sensibly.
#25
Did you have any Det warning devices installed mate?
Did the simktek flash up the CEL at all?
So many things can cause failures: could have been a duff sensor, or a fuel supply problem, oil starvation. You need to find out the cause before a rebuild though, otherwise the same thing will only claim the next engine too!
Condolences!!
Did the simktek flash up the CEL at all?
So many things can cause failures: could have been a duff sensor, or a fuel supply problem, oil starvation. You need to find out the cause before a rebuild though, otherwise the same thing will only claim the next engine too!
Condolences!!
#28
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I'm actually quite surprised at the oil temperatures you're seeing.
Where's your sensor located - top of cylinder 3 or in a sandwich plate?
My WRX (std internals) runs 281bhp on the standard TD04 and I rarely see the oil temp go above 80, maybe up to 90 on the motorway when at higher speeds but will then typically come back down to about 85 when cruising. Even if I nail it for a long period I won't see 100 degrees, although perhaps that's because I'm running a less capable turbo?
I run Millers 10W60 in mine which might make a difference to temps - what oil you using?
Where's your sensor located - top of cylinder 3 or in a sandwich plate?
My WRX (std internals) runs 281bhp on the standard TD04 and I rarely see the oil temp go above 80, maybe up to 90 on the motorway when at higher speeds but will then typically come back down to about 85 when cruising. Even if I nail it for a long period I won't see 100 degrees, although perhaps that's because I'm running a less capable turbo?
I run Millers 10W60 in mine which might make a difference to temps - what oil you using?
new age and classic are two different cars and temps are different i would say,new age running little bit lower temps than Classic.Somewhere here is thread about this.
Jura
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Sorry to piggy back but I have a bug Sti running around 350 and the oil temp hits above 90 on the oil temp if I'm driving Round town sometimes. 95 and it only had a rebuild 3k miles ago? Is this something to worry about or not as I just spent 4.5k on the rebuild.