Boys with P1`s and downpipes.
#6
I run millers octane + with every fill up and have done so from new. I get mine from Mike at scoobymania.
If you are worried about det then get a knocklink fitted. This is what I am intending to do later this year just to be on the safe side. It wont stop DET but tell you if it happening allowing you to back off and maybe get it remapped before it does blow.
cheers
If you are worried about det then get a knocklink fitted. This is what I am intending to do later this year just to be on the safe side. It wont stop DET but tell you if it happening allowing you to back off and maybe get it remapped before it does blow.
cheers
#7
Will a twin dump give different results?
As you can see I am an absolute to55er when it comes to anything mechanical.
I fancy the st/steel scoobymania one instead of the single scoobysport one but I dont know why really
Basically I`m well confused as to get one at all.
We`ll see.
How much is octane booster and how much do you use. How much roughly does it cost say per fillup??
As you can see I am an absolute to55er when it comes to anything mechanical.
I fancy the st/steel scoobymania one instead of the single scoobysport one but I dont know why really
Basically I`m well confused as to get one at all.
We`ll see.
How much is octane booster and how much do you use. How much roughly does it cost say per fillup??
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#8
Millers is advertised on the SM site for £2.60 a bottle I paid £3 a bottle from another place yesterday, It is one bottle per 50 ltrs most ppl on the bb use it every other fill up.
Andy
As for twin vs single dump don't ask me as I know **** all.
Andy
As for twin vs single dump don't ask me as I know **** all.
#10
No Arron, no det and I think both P1's had the same downpipe from SS.
Always run mine with octane boost just to be safe tho'.
Why dont you do the same ??? It really does make a noticeable difference.
Can anyone tell me if any DET was evident during the tests.
Birdy[/B][/QUOTE]
Always run mine with octane boost just to be safe tho'.
Why dont you do the same ??? It really does make a noticeable difference.
Can anyone tell me if any DET was evident during the tests.
Birdy[/B][/QUOTE]
#11
Arron
get the scoobysport fullsystem add millers and you will not believe the difference in pick up and midrange aswell as the fantastic sound.
i have had no detting in fact i actually think the car runs smoother even in 5 th at 30 mph theres no det on pick up.
Regards
Tim.
get the scoobysport fullsystem add millers and you will not believe the difference in pick up and midrange aswell as the fantastic sound.
i have had no detting in fact i actually think the car runs smoother even in 5 th at 30 mph theres no det on pick up.
Regards
Tim.
#13
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Andy W:
<B>Guy this might be a stupid question but bar a knocklink or a rolling road session how do you pick up det?
Andy[/quote]
You are both right, you can hear low revs detting (or pinking) when you are trying to pull a high gear ie. under a big load.
Without det headphones or a knocklink you have not got a chance at high revs as it is is masked by the turbo, exhaust, engine and road and wind noise.
cheers
chrisp
<B>Guy this might be a stupid question but bar a knocklink or a rolling road session how do you pick up det?
Andy[/quote]
You are both right, you can hear low revs detting (or pinking) when you are trying to pull a high gear ie. under a big load.
Without det headphones or a knocklink you have not got a chance at high revs as it is is masked by the turbo, exhaust, engine and road and wind noise.
cheers
chrisp
#14
Harj,
The "****" that told ARRRRRON about P1 downpipe det issues would be a certain Mr Mike Wood from Prodrive... Obviously he didn't have time to clear the comment with you before going to press, as it were...
Moray
The "****" that told ARRRRRON about P1 downpipe det issues would be a certain Mr Mike Wood from Prodrive... Obviously he didn't have time to clear the comment with you before going to press, as it were...
Moray
#15
Am I the only one to spot the "obvious" here? Adding Octane Booster does NOT affect the power output of an engine IF it wasn't detting to start with. So, the fact that it DOES increase the power output suggests that the P1s DO det when running an after market downpipe, just like they do when running a standard downpipe and NUL petrol. Fortunately, the ECU pulls back the ignition timing to compensate for this, to prevent engine damage. The difference you can "feel" when adding Millers is that the ECU can advance the ignition again and hence make more torque / power.
The BIG question is whether the ECU can pull the ignition back enough? There is a limit to how far it will pull back the timing, just in case there is a faulty knock sensor... if there were no such limit, it would keep pulling back the timing ad infinitum and (probably) burn the exhaust valves in the process. So once the preset limit has been reached, if it keeps on detting, it could go pop (the ECU would try to kill off the boost as well, but with better flow it would take longer). This is has been known to happen with Jap imports when pushed hard, especially the Phase II engined ones....
So is it likely to det? Yes. Is it more likely to det than with a standard downpipe? Yes. Is it likely to blow up? Not really, but if there is a combination of bad fuel and poor boost control, it could. Attaching a KnockLink will let you know if it is detting, and whether this detting is beyond the control of the ECU, or whether it is keeping it on a tight leash... When the ECU can control the "problem", there will be very few lights on the KnockLink, when it cannot, big red.... (although occasional single big red flash is transition det, and isn't "predictable" and therefore not controllable, other than to use paranoid timing which would give naff torque and silly fuel bills!)
FWIW, looking at a SelectMonitor on an MY01 with a free flowing exhaust showed under full chat the ECU was pulling the timing back 7 degrees. That's a lot. You'de need more than Millers to regain the lost advance. But if you could it would go like a rocket!
What it also tells you is that the reduction in back pressure brought about by the free flowing exhaust is such that the volumetric efficiency has risen to such an extent as to allow sufficiently more fuelmix into the cylinders at the same loadpoint as to cause a leaning out and a det "problem". BUT.... it is worth remembering that all modern engines are a compromise between cruise fuel efficiency and full bore power. None can maintain the "perfect" amount of advance at the top end, all maps are already retarded from "ideal", and it's just the extent to which this happens which is at question here.
On the whole, Arron, I'de say "just do it", fit a KnockLink, and if it gets detty, add Millers (or just add Millers anyway... or ProBoost, or any other good octane booster). If that still doesn't cure the problem, fit Water Injection, or replace the normal downpipe.....
The BIG question is whether the ECU can pull the ignition back enough? There is a limit to how far it will pull back the timing, just in case there is a faulty knock sensor... if there were no such limit, it would keep pulling back the timing ad infinitum and (probably) burn the exhaust valves in the process. So once the preset limit has been reached, if it keeps on detting, it could go pop (the ECU would try to kill off the boost as well, but with better flow it would take longer). This is has been known to happen with Jap imports when pushed hard, especially the Phase II engined ones....
So is it likely to det? Yes. Is it more likely to det than with a standard downpipe? Yes. Is it likely to blow up? Not really, but if there is a combination of bad fuel and poor boost control, it could. Attaching a KnockLink will let you know if it is detting, and whether this detting is beyond the control of the ECU, or whether it is keeping it on a tight leash... When the ECU can control the "problem", there will be very few lights on the KnockLink, when it cannot, big red.... (although occasional single big red flash is transition det, and isn't "predictable" and therefore not controllable, other than to use paranoid timing which would give naff torque and silly fuel bills!)
FWIW, looking at a SelectMonitor on an MY01 with a free flowing exhaust showed under full chat the ECU was pulling the timing back 7 degrees. That's a lot. You'de need more than Millers to regain the lost advance. But if you could it would go like a rocket!
What it also tells you is that the reduction in back pressure brought about by the free flowing exhaust is such that the volumetric efficiency has risen to such an extent as to allow sufficiently more fuelmix into the cylinders at the same loadpoint as to cause a leaning out and a det "problem". BUT.... it is worth remembering that all modern engines are a compromise between cruise fuel efficiency and full bore power. None can maintain the "perfect" amount of advance at the top end, all maps are already retarded from "ideal", and it's just the extent to which this happens which is at question here.
On the whole, Arron, I'de say "just do it", fit a KnockLink, and if it gets detty, add Millers (or just add Millers anyway... or ProBoost, or any other good octane booster). If that still doesn't cure the problem, fit Water Injection, or replace the normal downpipe.....
#19
I think it is a bit unfair to critisize Mike Wood on his comments as I have no doubt that he probably knows a P1 inside out and backwards. He has sorted me out with a few things so I would always listen to his comments. Mike is not saying that the car will blow up he is merely say ing it COULD blow up.
I am almost certain that I will go for it just having a problem sorting out with who as all seem to have the latest and greatest.
Scoobysport seems the most popualar choice and I thank Pete for his time today
I also fancy the PE system but it seems a bit pricey compared to the Scoobymania system for pretty much the same thing.
I tend to listen and learn from people who in my opinion actually know a thing or two and dont just copy everybody else cos its "the greatest".
PAT the explaination above is superb m8 and explains all I need to know I think, thanks.
So is it Scoobysport,Scoobymania,BPM or Power Engineering?????
Wait and see?
I am almost certain that I will go for it just having a problem sorting out with who as all seem to have the latest and greatest.
Scoobysport seems the most popualar choice and I thank Pete for his time today
I also fancy the PE system but it seems a bit pricey compared to the Scoobymania system for pretty much the same thing.
I tend to listen and learn from people who in my opinion actually know a thing or two and dont just copy everybody else cos its "the greatest".
PAT the explaination above is superb m8 and explains all I need to know I think, thanks.
So is it Scoobysport,Scoobymania,BPM or Power Engineering?????
Wait and see?
#23
Pat, brilliant informative post. Very interesting about the MY01 retarding so much... Hmm, how do we get that back because if we can, it'll be a rocket ship!
Arron: lots of people buy purely on noise. Personally, I've seen/heard SS and SM, but not back to back. They both sound good.
I believe that there was quite a long thread in Drivetrain a month or so ago about the relative merits of twin dump etc - try a quick search?
Good luck with it. This thread has been an eye opener regarding implications of fitting a dp!
Arron: lots of people buy purely on noise. Personally, I've seen/heard SS and SM, but not back to back. They both sound good.
I believe that there was quite a long thread in Drivetrain a month or so ago about the relative merits of twin dump etc - try a quick search?
Good luck with it. This thread has been an eye opener regarding implications of fitting a dp!
#24
Arron,
Went from SS dp, magnex centre, SS back box, to BPM full sytem.
The sound of the BPM is totally different. Doesn't sound like everyother Scoob on the planet now!
Could not knock the quality of the SS one whatsoever - and it does "feel" torquier low down than the BPM one. But it isn't, and the BPM one seems to pull better mid and on.
I've heard the Scoobymania one, and it sounds very nice - quite classy.
With regards to absolute power, I'd say it'd go BPM/Scoobymania, then SS.
But compared to std you'd be well chuffed with all of them.
and personally, I reckon the PE twwin tailpipe backbox will look cr4p on your P1
Went from SS dp, magnex centre, SS back box, to BPM full sytem.
The sound of the BPM is totally different. Doesn't sound like everyother Scoob on the planet now!
Could not knock the quality of the SS one whatsoever - and it does "feel" torquier low down than the BPM one. But it isn't, and the BPM one seems to pull better mid and on.
I've heard the Scoobymania one, and it sounds very nice - quite classy.
With regards to absolute power, I'd say it'd go BPM/Scoobymania, then SS.
But compared to std you'd be well chuffed with all of them.
and personally, I reckon the PE twwin tailpipe backbox will look cr4p on your P1
#25
Pat/Chiark
As a point of interest, the 01 shows almost as much retard on the standard exhaust.
It seems that Subaru have put a very aggresive map in and given it enough safety options to sort itself out if fuel/temp/exhaust differences are encountered.
I'm going to try mine on some ProBoost and see what its like
Arron... Nice to chat, hope it helped.
As a point of interest, the 01 shows almost as much retard on the standard exhaust.
It seems that Subaru have put a very aggresive map in and given it enough safety options to sort itself out if fuel/temp/exhaust differences are encountered.
I'm going to try mine on some ProBoost and see what its like
Arron... Nice to chat, hope it helped.
#26
I know this is a P1 based thread, but I am running a MY99 Turbo with a full SS exhaust (no cats, inc. dp)
Reading this thread has made me think that octane booster might be good for my car. I was thinking about an ECU reset and then 'upgrading' to SUL and octane booster??
Reading this thread has made me think that octane booster might be good for my car. I was thinking about an ECU reset and then 'upgrading' to SUL and octane booster??
#28
Mr Bian
I had 2 sessions on a rolling road(back to back) MY00 full ss decat system & SUL. 2nd run with Pro boost. Only 4 bhp increase in power, but a hike of 16lbs of torque, and a much smoother torque curve, maintained for longer.
Make the change M8.
I had 2 sessions on a rolling road(back to back) MY00 full ss decat system & SUL. 2nd run with Pro boost. Only 4 bhp increase in power, but a hike of 16lbs of torque, and a much smoother torque curve, maintained for longer.
Make the change M8.
#29
Blue
Thanks for the comment I was hoping someone would give me a concrete answer. Did you 'reset' your ecu or have you used SUL from new.
Any idea where I can get Proboost from, how much, how often do you use it etc etc.
Thanks for the comment I was hoping someone would give me a concrete answer. Did you 'reset' your ecu or have you used SUL from new.
Any idea where I can get Proboost from, how much, how often do you use it etc etc.
#30
Mr Bian
I get my Pro Boost from TSL in Nottingham, Scoobysport also do it.
I've only used it a few times, usually run on SUL only. I've run the car on NUL (petrol crisis time) but depending who you speak to, the ECU / Select monitor doesn't need resetting, it understands it. I don't know if the MY99 is different to MY00 - don't think so.
The RR sessions were done after the NUL petrol, mine didn't need resetting (If your happy with 261bhp & 264lbs torque that is!!)
There's a lot of talk about what exhaust systems are the best - until someone shows me proof of a better system than mine I'd go with SS at those results!
I get my Pro Boost from TSL in Nottingham, Scoobysport also do it.
I've only used it a few times, usually run on SUL only. I've run the car on NUL (petrol crisis time) but depending who you speak to, the ECU / Select monitor doesn't need resetting, it understands it. I don't know if the MY99 is different to MY00 - don't think so.
The RR sessions were done after the NUL petrol, mine didn't need resetting (If your happy with 261bhp & 264lbs torque that is!!)
There's a lot of talk about what exhaust systems are the best - until someone shows me proof of a better system than mine I'd go with SS at those results!