Hi guys, haven't posted here much since I sold my Forester STB, but I have found an Old Classic I am looking to buy.

I am not looking for people to recommend me a newer/more easily modifiable car, I know I can get those for the same money, I am looking for any common faults I should check for when I drive it.

Gearbox I know as it has the older box, Brakes I know will be less effective than newer (one of the only changes I wish to make to the car). Turbo checks I am aware of (smoke etc), is there anything else I should check for? I have heard someone mention hesitation when cold can be an issue, is this a common fault?

I realise the car won't be to everyones taste here, but it is what I have been looking for, so any help you can offer with the older car would be appreciated.

http://www.autoconnectbristol.co.uk/...01120387543267

Link to car there.

PS. I have read the buyers guide

 

HELLO

Can't really help you beyond what you already know. Think the old ones have those chimny things over the turbo which can work loose and rattle.

 

Hey dude

Thanks for that

 

coil packs can play up when you put your foot down & can cause stuttering through the revs mainly at highr revs i found, cold start issues can be plugs/coil packs & ecu temp sensor, gearbox may seem ok when first try but take for a good 15min drive to get gearbox oil upto temp then check the gears.
Check the clutch aint slipping
listen for knocking noises as all sorts of bushes & joints can/could be worn.
listen for knocking all the way through the revs, when cold & warmed up to listen for the dreaded bearings wearing/worn & check the cars service history, more receipts the better if you do not plan on changing parts yourself.

I bought mine as a banger about 14 months ago, now it has a uk sti semi closed deck block covered 45k, with api modded oil pump & everything else to go with it to make it reliable for day to day. brakes are done, calipers overhauled by godspeed, hel lines, various other stuff all over & it has brought the car back to life - best part of 6k so far but only bought genuine or highly recommended parts i.e godspeed, api, etc

just check it & check again!

 

Some good advice thanks Timmy

 

Hi, i had a 1995 classic which i bought in 1998 and kept until last year, so i think i came across most things that go wrong with them! it covered 216000 miles by the end, with no real engine problems other than the odd sensor or two.

Issues I had, which might or might not affect you:

- Chimney already mentioned, also the heat shields on the lower exhaust manifolds will split and rattle.
- Coil packs already mentioned, might cause a misfire.
- Gearbox started whining at about 175,000, but this was down to not changing the gear oil often enough. Might be worth changing yours when you get it.
- Cam belt. Due every 45,000 so yours is nearly due for its second. If the first was done on time, that might have been many years ago, so may be worth doing it soon. My Crankshaft front oil seal started leaking at around 90,000 so might be worth replacing that while doing the cam belt.
- Alloy wheels, original 15's like yours, started corroding around the beads so had trouble keeping the air in.
- Rust. Not much of a problem, but by the end the rear subframe was borderline MOT fail, and the rear vallance (in up under the rear bumper) had gone quite badly, making the bumper insecure.
- Radiator. TWO radiators rusted out in the life of the car. Both genuine Subaru.
- Steering rack was leaking fluid, and by the end it was starting to get tight (jack it up and spin the front wheels lock to lock, you feel it go tight/loose/tight.)
- Fuel pump died of old age towards the end, but then I sat down and worked out it had pumped over 8000 gallons of fuel, so I didn't feel so bad!

This sounds like a fair list, but overall, given the age and the miles covered, i think the car did me proud, and never regretted buying it.

 

In fairness, that sounds like a fairly minimal list for a car you had that long and that many miles, it inspires me greatly

Did you uprate the brakes to 4 pot? or just improve the stock pads/lines?

 

I had a 93 wrx and 96 sti, apart from the coil packs,and heat shields the only other thing that needed doing was the rocker cover gaskets. Not bad for 6 years of motoring.

 

Have to say, I didn't modify it whatsoever. Stock brakes were just about OK, I found genuine pads to be worth the money rather than motor factor ones. The only thing I did was PIAA driving lamps - the standard headlights are pretty unimpressive.

 

Went up today, took it for a test drive and the Gearbox was a bit whiney, so knocked him down to £1150.



Drove it home and all seems well apart from the gearbox. It was hesitant when cold, had a misfire, that cleared up when warm so if it isn't the coilpack will be a sensor I would imagine.

Suspension feels taught and has had a lot of new parts on it fairly recently, bottom arms, new rad, lotsa new bushes and new tyres on the rear.

Overall for £1150 I am pleased.

Money set aside for g/box and cambelt.

 

If you are in or around Bristle, check out www.bbscoobys.com

 

Will do

 

So Gearbox and Clutch fitted today, and how much more quiet it is No more judder in high gears at low RPM, no whine and 1-2 snicks in and out sweetly.

Guy said to me as I was paying him "Thats got some nice kit on it" I said "What do you mean?"

He says "Got whiteline control arms all round and matching ARB's and Drop links and a full polybush kit".

I says "So much for buying an unmodified car "

Explains why is was a bit spine jarring on the old bristol road

Guess I gotta call the insurance company now :-/

 

At least its sensible mods and not some cheap halfords induction kit..

1 other thing that can go on them is the original bacolite header tank can crack. Not an expensive fix just a pain if it goes while driving.

Great cars though, i've had mine for 8 years now and still like it.

Johnny

 

Indeed, and picked up some new 16 inch wheels so can get some 4-pots now

 

Replaced the wheels with something to fit larger brakes

17inch not 16 inch as I previously said.

 

Looks like a nice motor, and nice price too.

 

Cleaned my Boost Solenoid this morning and the difference was marked, the cold stutter/msifire at 3k (which was violent) has gone and I am left with a small misfire at 4.5k now, so coil packs next to check and then MAF sensor.

 

either you have a bag of sand in the boot or that cars been lowered. Theres no way the arches are that close to the tyres on standard suspension.

You dont have to ring your insurance company about the ARB's and drop links. They are a replacement part that is just better than the stock one. A lot of people run to their insurance company when they "uprate" parts like exhaust, suspension etc but theyre all replacement items and can be justified.

 

Interesting, this is with the stock wheels



What about the whiteline control arms, reckon I will get away with those as improved pattern parts?

 

I have a 96, WRX an the only issues I have had are:
- the top rad hose split (another hose and fresh coolant needed plus all the coolant cleaning off the engine).
- two weeks later the hose by the turbo (banjo one) started leaking due to a corroded clip, replaced with a jubilee clip, all good for a week then the pipe split!! more coolant and hoses needed!!
- the other day the heater matrix hose spilt!!! It has been repaired but had to have yet more coolant!!

It would seem that my issues are down to old rubber so just be carfeful that the rubber could be on its way out.

 

So seat restoration today, started with this after I had cleaned and degreased.



and the whole seat



Closeup of the bolster



Applied the dye and this is after (pre polish and protector)



And base



Where it looks a different colour it is actually because the area has a different finish with the dye.

Havent taken any shots of post polish and protect, those will follow

Seats they will replace

 

nice job mate, well impressed with that

 

All thanks to Buffalo Leather repair Kits

The photos dont do them justice because of the flash, in the car they look ace