sonicvr6

iTrader: (2)

right i got miller's 10w60 race oil in mine right now 3.5k on the engine was told would be the best oil for it but just been told that it will be stressing my rods and crank ? dont see hoe they said i should be running 5w30/40 is this right the man that told me to use it really know's his stuff and i proper trust him when it comes to my car he dose all the work on it for me and always dose a top job

Galifrey

iTrader: (3)

10w-60 is gonna have way more additives than the 10w-40 which meets Subaru recomendations so why use a thicker oil when you don't need to?

Millers 10w-40 competition is one of the best oils I have ever used imho

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Do a search chap, this topic has been covered many many times.

10/40 or 10/50 would be better in my opinion.

sonicvr6

iTrader: (2)

i have and get mixed message some say only with 500+bhp and some say thats all they will use

the hamster

iTrader: (7)

I'm using Mobil 10w 60 in mine as I ran a 10w 40 in my old engine and suffered the dreaded knocking when it ran hot.

I may swap to a 10w 50 tho as its more readily available

Galifrey

iTrader: (3)

Well put simply, thicker oild creates more drag and oil with a wide difference in temperatures will have more additives and polymers added to provide the stability.

Ultimately more additives means more deposits in the engine and turbo when temperatures are higher.

My rule of thumb has always been to run as low a viscosity as is prudent and to keep the temperature range appropriate to the weather and conditions.

What oil temps are you reaching?

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Everybody has different opinions on what oil to use. It's one of those questions that will always cause a big debate.
Did you get any warranty with the engine build, if you did then maybe worth talking to the builder. He may have requirements on which oil you should be using and if you differ from his recommendation the warranty may be void.

Galifrey

iTrader: (3)

One problem is that people don't use a summer and a winter oil.

In winter you could probably use a 10w-40 and in summer with higher temps a 20w-50 would be better.

sonicvr6

iTrader: (2)

90-130 depending how hard i drive

sonicvr6

iTrader: (2)

they recommended the 10w60 for the car thats all that the engine has ever seen

the hamster

iTrader: (7)

Ok chap, thanks for that.

Mine has done 88k and runs 300+ bhp so maybe I should change to a 10w 50 and then a 15w 50?

I know what you mean about the thickness of the oil as my mate has piston slap and has changed from a 10w 40 to a 15w 50 and its reduced the noise considerably during cold starts.

Galifrey

iTrader: (3)

I had piston slap in my 97 forester and never worried about it, it is fairly normal with some pistons.

You need to look at what temperatures your oil is reaching and how much wear your engine has sustained, ie how many cold starts since rebuild (cold starts do the most wear).

Base stock in a 40-50 oil is likely to be similar, but the 50 oil will have more additives and polymers to stop the oil thinning so badly at 100 degrees. But again it depends on the make as some will use a higher viscosity base stock and more additives to allow pourability at low temps. Using a higher viscosity base stock might make the piston slap less pronounced.

15w will in turn have less additives than 10w as that relates to the oils viscosity/pourability at very low temps, but as the difference between the low (w) rating and the high temp rating becomes higher the more additives and polymers you will get.

sonicvr6

iTrader: (2)

right so am i using the right oil only just had a oil change wile the gearbox was being fitted the bloke in the motor factors even said i only get this in for the scooby boy that shop here he also stock's the heat rated #9 plugs

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

No its the wrong oil, to start with its too thick, read Galifrey's post number 6, that says it all, it causes more drag, its far more prone to shear, it takes an age to get up to temp and a xw40 will be better for your engine giving you more power, less drag, less shear, better fuel consumption, get rid of the heat as good as or better than the w60 etc, you get the gist?
Oh just dont use a w30 oil, classic engines dont like it

Tony

c_maguire

10w-40 is the recommended oil for classics.
Yours has a forged engine and is running more power.
My choice would be a 10w-50 for a fast road car, or maybe 10w-60 for a track car.
With Winter on the way that 10w-60 wouldn't be in there though.

sonicvr6

iTrader: (2)

right the mrs will go nut's when i say need a oil change again after 3 weeks lol what do i put in people have told me that the £20 tesco fully synthetic is good but i'm a bit shy with puttting it in my scooby and is it 10w40 or 50 i need ?

c_maguire

Really depends how you use it.
If it goes on lots of less than 10 mile journeys then put the 10w-40 Millers in it.
If it gets longer journeys with some right foot thrown in then put the 10w-50 Millers in it.
The 10w-50 I'd use all year ( I use the van for functional short trips), whereas the 10w-40 is (in my opinion) too thin for hot weather in a high power car (350+).

sonicvr6

iTrader: (2)

it dose lots of short trips and dosent get hammered much always warmed up and cooled down only just spent £50 on oil plus filter

c_maguire

Then put some 10w-40 Millers in, it is getting colder anyway.
And there's nothing saying you have to chuck the £50 of 10w-60 away. Collect it in a clean container, it may come in useful.

c_maguire

And there's no need to do the filter.

sonicvr6

iTrader: (2)

still got the container it come in lol

STI_Kid

sorry to hijack this thread but what would oil would i put in my 2002 bugeye wrx prodrive 265bhp done 100k miles?

MattJ85

iTrader: (3)

I had 10w60 Millers in mine - its a 2002 wrx and been told it is too thick.

I use my car very early in the mornings when at the coldest so been told to go for a 10w40 and then use a 15w40 in the summer when hotter.

I dont track the car and only use it for fast driving when really warmed up so this sounds good to me

Plus on scoobyparts at the moment millers 10w40 or 10w60 + hks filter is only £60

dunx

iTrader: (3)

130 is too high IMHO

I used to run 10W60 Millers CFS in my 50K+ STI running 400+ bhp @ 2 bar of boost, but will use 10W40 through the winter and 10W50 in the summer on the current build. Track use optional once I get the cams swapped for some that work with my sensors (or vice versa) ?

dunx

WildPikey

I use 10w60 in my v3 sti, if I'm honest though it wouldn't of been my choice but the car has been serviced with it since it has been in the UK and I didn't want to chance changing to another grade/make, Sounds silly but I know how temperamental these engines can be.

Galifrey

iTrader: (3)

Oil Temps are optimally 90-110 degrees, but contrary to what you would think a thiner oil can actually run cooler than a thick oil, as the drag of the oil itself actually creates heat.

Like Dunx says, 130 is really too high, I would be looking to cool the oil better, trying to keep it in the 90-110 range for optimal life.

How many of you guys run an oil cooler?

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

I have an oil cooler but it's standard on my car
I also run a 5w40 fully synth oil all year round.
Car is standard though, 312+bhp

Tony

Galifrey

iTrader: (3)

Cooler or Oil/Water heat exchanger?

dunx

iTrader: (3)

He has both...

I run a cooler through the summer, when it is more likely to get some abuse, but even tho' it has a thermostat, I remove it for the winter.

I need mine to warm-up A.S.A.P. as work isn't too far from home.

dunx

Micheru

Same here. My car's ran 10w60 since import (no idea about it's history in Japan).

Everytime I read one of these threads I question whether I should use a lighter oil in the winter. It's due an oil change and I'll probably be ordering some next week. I do two 30 min dual carriageway journeys a day and let it warm up. So I'll probably stay with the 10w60.