subaru 2000 advice
19 November 2011, 09:14 PM
#1
subaru 2000 advice pics now added
Hi everybody
as some of you know i went on a nice long trip to see a 2000 turbo up north today. The guy who i was seeing today told me aparently to get a few things changed.
1st off he said to change one of the water holders which is just in front of the turbo as when these rust it can pretty much kill the engine. He said to me to buy a stainless steel one so that it wont rust and cause any issues
hes 2nd suggestion was to speak to god speed racing to get the brakes upgraded. He said standard brakes are ok if your gonna drive like a pansy but best to get them upgraded
third and most importantly he said when i start the engine do not rev it and leave it for a few mins as its vital that the oil can reach the top of the engine so it keeps it running sweet. When ive finished driving it leave it for a few mins to let the turbo cool down and to let the oil circulate.
After seeing his subaru and telling me what his done i honestly believe he knows his buisness. i took it for a 45min test drive n never had so much of a smile ever. no knocks or squeaks what so ever
the subaru comes with full history but oil changes every 5,000 miles. its had one owner with no expense spared
im hsppy with it so thought id ask you guys your views and if theres anyghing too look out for.
as some of you know i went on a nice long trip to see a 2000 turbo up north today. The guy who i was seeing today told me aparently to get a few things changed.
1st off he said to change one of the water holders which is just in front of the turbo as when these rust it can pretty much kill the engine. He said to me to buy a stainless steel one so that it wont rust and cause any issues
hes 2nd suggestion was to speak to god speed racing to get the brakes upgraded. He said standard brakes are ok if your gonna drive like a pansy but best to get them upgraded
third and most importantly he said when i start the engine do not rev it and leave it for a few mins as its vital that the oil can reach the top of the engine so it keeps it running sweet. When ive finished driving it leave it for a few mins to let the turbo cool down and to let the oil circulate.
After seeing his subaru and telling me what his done i honestly believe he knows his buisness. i took it for a 45min test drive n never had so much of a smile ever. no knocks or squeaks what so ever
the subaru comes with full history but oil changes every 5,000 miles. its had one owner with no expense spared
im hsppy with it so thought id ask you guys your views and if theres anyghing too look out for.
Last edited by Bean1984; 27 November 2011 at 11:41 AM.
19 November 2011, 10:10 PM
#2
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Sounds good to me 
the brakes will need some work, depends on the year to whether you get 2 or 4 pots, warming the oil up is essential, it can take up to 10 miles to do so (dont go by the water temp gauge, it proves the water is up to temp, the oil takes considerably longer!).
Godspeed brakes, easy to find, www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk and Ian posts on here, had a few bits off him, sorted chap
Common issues (it all depends on the year, exactly what year car is it?) can be gearboxes, clutches, diffs, leaks from radiators where they crack around the plastic bits.
Rust on the rear arches or around the windscreen also.
Tony
the brakes will need some work, depends on the year to whether you get 2 or 4 pots, warming the oil up is essential, it can take up to 10 miles to do so (dont go by the water temp gauge, it proves the water is up to temp, the oil takes considerably longer!).Godspeed brakes, easy to find, www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk and Ian posts on here, had a few bits off him, sorted chap
Common issues (it all depends on the year, exactly what year car is it?) can be gearboxes, clutches, diffs, leaks from radiators where they crack around the plastic bits.
Rust on the rear arches or around the windscreen also.
Tony
19 November 2011, 10:19 PM
#3
Hi tony.
its pretty clean.on the rear arches
its an x plate 2000. the guy has told me that the clutches n diffs are the.most common failures as well as some of the water system components.
ive spoke to ian about upgrading the brakes all ready mate
its pretty clean.on the rear arches
its an x plate 2000. the guy has told me that the clutches n diffs are the.most common failures as well as some of the water system components.
ive spoke to ian about upgrading the brakes all ready mate
20 November 2011, 12:42 AM
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oil temp gauge is essential, my car is makeing noise like a trooper now its gone cold but most do till they warmed and in winter the noise gets worse, as long as any noise goes when warm u pretty much ok, boxers are pretty noisy at times
20 November 2011, 07:24 AM
#7
Sounds like a good guy/buy ive a my99 uk turbo - everything hes told you is spot on - yip sounds good - does it have side skirts - check rear jackng points if you can - but yeh sounds an enthusiast - buy a new maf if you take her , not expensive and worth the peace of mind
iain
iain
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20 November 2011, 08:01 AM
#8
Whats the best gauges to buy. Ideally id like the gauges that sit on the dash board but sadly i havent got.a clue where to start. 1st things first tho for me is a fresh oil change and fluids change.... im quite picky about stuff like that. Done my st170 every 5,000 miles
Yea he loves his jap cars. He had a guy in his workshop who had an evo that had been cooked. Was quite a sight when he said your alloys are worth more than your engine
Yea he loves his jap cars. He had a guy in his workshop who had an evo that had been cooked. Was quite a sight when he said your alloys are worth more than your engine
20 November 2011, 09:01 AM
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Clutches on the MY99/00 cars are prone to judder (its very common and stuff they use for the friction material), MAF sensors are around 100-120 quid, quite fragile if you add an induction kit, and the best gauges are Defi's but they are also the most expensive.
Tony
Tony
20 November 2011, 09:58 AM
#12
For gauges try http://www.scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog...38b051e6f21b19
or
http://www.scoobyparts.com/acatalog/Gauges_&_Pods.html
The prosport gauges are good if you cant afford the defis
or
http://www.scoobyparts.com/acatalog/Gauges_&_Pods.html
The prosport gauges are good if you cant afford the defis
wouldnt put anything else in my car(s) 
27 November 2011, 11:38 AM
#20
Well heres the subaru guys. Set off at 9am to head up to colne just off blackburn. Absolutely loved driving the car home. Not one fault all the way home so im all happy. I was quite surprised by the mpg. Managed to cover 280miles on £55 of shell v power. More than my focus st170
Took me 12 hours door to door.
Took me 12 hours door to door.
27 November 2011, 12:14 PM
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take a peek at the ecu mate will have prodrive on it if it is in the passager foot well looks like a nice car swear i've seen it in chorly what did you give for it ?
27 November 2011, 12:18 PM
#26
Cheers mate ill go n have a butchers. i paid £940 cash and part exd my st170. My st170 needs a lot of work. ive counted it up so far it needs £1500 quid to set right. clutch and flywheel both need replacing as well as new tyres all round
27 November 2011, 12:23 PM
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Looks like a standard turbo, still has the original pee shooter backbox fitted, standard alloys (though resprayed anthracite?) instead of silver.
Has this one got aircon fitted? (it was a 1k option), but looks good, check the rear arches, better to see if they are rusting now and get it sorted rather than let the salt of winter eat through the rear quarters
Tony
Has this one got aircon fitted? (it was a 1k option), but looks good, check the rear arches, better to see if they are rusting now and get it sorted rather than let the salt of winter eat through the rear quarters
Tony
27 November 2011, 12:30 PM
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air-con was a 1k uk option didnt know that got a ppp car here with a/c gold prodrive 17's full hks system including header's what would you say it's worth oh full leather as well mint car