goujon

i took my classic impreza turbo uk for the mot today but it failed on: 1) number plates not having post code of dvla approved dealer and because of a background on the plates 2) windscreen wiper overlapped the on the sun strip
3) brake light in spoiler has less than 50% of LEDs working 4) broken front n/s drop link 5) steering rack gaiter. so took off the sun strip disconnected and taped over the brake light got new plates and put them on and also got the gaiter and drop link to try and fit tomorrow, i can understand the broken drop link and the perished steering rack gaiter but the fail on spoiler brake light, wiper overlapping on sun strip and number plates not having post code on is stupid i think...

steviefastbikes

What year is it?
It doesnt have to have postcode anymore.i am at my vts terminal and just checked
sounds like a petty tester.
Centre brake lamp has to work if wired unfortunately but most ignore it if both ns and os work.

goujon

its a 97 facelift turbo uk they told me all cars have to have the post code of a dvla approved number plate dealer and its new regs that came in this year and when i went to bennets to buy the plates they told me that to but i couldnt find anything about it on the internet before i went down there.

steviefastbikes

They are talking bollocks mate.
The background on the number plate only applies to post september 2001 cars according to the test guide.
I am logging off in a while do will look in rff then
if its not there you cant fail it

goujon

i just checked on a dvla page and it says the number plates have to be from a (RNPS) and below that it says you need the name and post code of the supplier.

goujon

http://www.direct.gov.uk/prod_consum.../dg_067666.pdf section 5) then go down

The Pink Ninja

iTrader: (23)

Yep number plates have to have postcode of where they were made so if they are spaced illegaly etc they know who made them.

Windscreen wiper on the sunstrip means the sunstrip is too large and is obscuring the drivers vision.

Brake light is a petty one IMO, i`d have just disconnected it.

The other 2 are just genral maintenance.

goujon

yeah i agree, but done the sun strip, number plates and brake light now so going to have a go with help tomorrow to do the drop link and the steering gaiter hopefully wont be too hard to do, ive tried to find how to videos on youtube i found one sort of for a 95 legacy for the gaiter but nothing for the drop link.

steviefastbikes

Fail code for postcode?
There isnt one.

goujon

on the mot sheet it says background overprinted or shadowed with text (6.3.le) but when they said about getting the new plates they said it has to also have the name and post code of the (RNPS) and the car parts show thats the (RNPS) also said that.

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Drop link is a very easy fix buddy.
You'll see how easy when you get under the car. A couple of bolts and that's it.

goujon

ah ok good but what about the steering rack gaiter i know you have to take the wheel off then disconnect the track rod end from the hub but i was hoping i could slide the gaiter over the arm all the way after that but the smaller hole looks quite small maybe not big enough to stretch over looks like i might have to take the track rod end off the arm but then will i need the tracking done after (i know i could mark on the arm where the end was up to so it goes back the same)

speedking

Millions of drivers would have to buy new plates if the postcode rule was retrospective. What they mean is that new plates have to have the postcode information on.

MOT test handbook §6.3. No mention of postcodes

goujon

yeah and as i had to get new plates because of the background (even though they mot'd it last year and passed it) i had to get the name and post code on them.

The Pink Ninja

iTrader: (23)

Yep, Sorry meant BSAU code

Saalro

iTrader: (8)

They are being hugely picky for failing you on all apart from the gaitors, change of MOT centre i think! Then again then could loose their licence if they don't and it was a mystery shopper... Guess the key is to know the MOT people a bit to gain some trust and get away with little bits like that.

Thanks

goujon

yeah, i thought as i used them last year and it went straight through would be the same again this time but glad they found the broken drop link i feel better knowing its safe to drive and maybe theyre doing a good job but it did seem a bit picky to me maybe the area manager was there today... it was a halfords autocentre by the way

Saalro

iTrader: (8)

They just want money lol, go to an MOT test who don't do mechanical work, less likely to get picked up on little bits i would imagine.

Thanks

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

Steering rack gaiter is simple too.

Jack up and secure with axles stands
Wheel off
WD40 and loosen track rod end lock nut before removing track rod end from steering hub. Leave the nut just loose so you know where to wind the track rod back to.
Remove split pin from track rod end nut
Remove nut from track rod end
Remove the track rod end from the steering hub (a good whack witha heavy hammer on the casting the balljoint goes through usually does it)
Leaving the lock nut to mark the position wind the track rod end off the rod
Cut the devices that hold the existing steering gaiter and remove it
Fit the new gaiter
Wind the track rod end back onto the rod until it meets the lock nut
refit the track rod end to the steering hub
refit the nut to the track rod balljoint and torque to minimum 20 lbft and continue tighteneing until split pin hole lines up
fit a new split pin
tighten the track rod locking nut to 62 lbft
refit the wheel
lower the car and test drive

goujon

its ok i did it yesterday already with help and like you say it is easy to do the hardest part is cracking the nuts loose and getting the track rod end apart from the hub we used a special 2 prong fork that when you hit with a hammer separates it but damaged the boot on the rod end so had to get a new rod end to and marked the position so it went back exactly the same and the drop link was easy to so now the 5 things it failed on are done and its re-test is on saturday at 3.30.

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

Yep, the pronged fork device is a tool of last resort. Usually if you smack the casting the rod end sticks thru (not the rod end itself) good and hard with a 3 to 4 pound hammer, the shock pops the rod end out with no damage.

Well you done it now. Good luck on Saturday

goujon

cheers, yeah all done now and ready for saturday...