No point driving sensible!
#1
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 4,636
Likes: 0
From: North Wales.
No point driving sensible!
Normally I average 22mpg...ish, commuting and pottering around with the odd heavy right foot . I filled up 2 weeks ago with Tesco Momentum (remember the shortage), drove off boost for all that time....honest , got 220 miles with less than quarter of a tank left (I thought this was quite good cos normally lucky to manage 200) Filled up just now with 45.84 litres and I averaged
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.21.82 - WTF? I`m very confused!!!!!!
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.21.82 - WTF? I`m very confused!!!!!!
#2
Do you have a boost gauge fitted, if not then you were probably still boosting, you will be suprised how easy it is to come on boost, and even the odd squirt can drop the average by quite a bit.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 4,636
Likes: 0
From: North Wales.
http://www.torquecars.com/tools/uk-mpg-calculator.php
D`oh! Ah well, back to driving `properly` now then
#10
That's just told me the cost of covering 12K miles - £3.9K
#12
Constant RPM seems to be the secret. Normally get 22mpg pottering or spirited on my daily commute on country roads at silly oclock in the morning. However, frequently get 27mpg on late night runs from my Grans in Ipswich up the A14 to near Peterborough holding 3500 to 4000rpm in fifth (uk box). I can imagine the conversation with the copper when I do get nicked. Q "Why were you going that fast?" A "I was saving fuel officer" LOL
Last edited by his-n-her-scoobs; 19 April 2012 at 09:45 AM.
#13
I was doing 1 mile each way to work in mine and only getting about 35 miles out of 20 quid. Yes I am lazy. Sold the scoob and now in Clio 182, 20 quid lasts me at least 2 weeks ......
#14
#15
#23
#24
A car driven for short journeys not getting up to temp etc will suffer more wear and tear than a motorway mile muncher.
Me and my wife both have Fabia VRS's. Mine which was originally hers has done 170k, on it's original, clutch, second set of brakes (current front disks/pads have done 90k) and has had a radiator, steering rack, wheel bearing and a couple of bushes in that time and still drives as well as the day we picked it up at 30k.
Her car was 5 years old when we bought it having covered only 17k and needs new brakes all round, it has a noisy wheel bearing and all in all it is no where near as smooth as mine. Never again will i buy a car with such low miles unless it can be proved that the car was a low use motorway car
Me and my wife both have Fabia VRS's. Mine which was originally hers has done 170k, on it's original, clutch, second set of brakes (current front disks/pads have done 90k) and has had a radiator, steering rack, wheel bearing and a couple of bushes in that time and still drives as well as the day we picked it up at 30k.
Her car was 5 years old when we bought it having covered only 17k and needs new brakes all round, it has a noisy wheel bearing and all in all it is no where near as smooth as mine. Never again will i buy a car with such low miles unless it can be proved that the car was a low use motorway car
#25
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 38,052
Likes: 301
From: The hell where youth and laughter go
If you drive so slow that you can't use top gear then MPG will suffer considerably. I know most cars I driven don't do good MPG below 45-50mph (R32's mpg sweet spot is about 60-65mph).
I have this argument with the new Beamer (auto) which sometimes refuses to use 8th gear when cruising (yes it has 8 gears! ), so I have to manually engage it (I think its probably because it regenerating the DPF ). Thats the only way to get above 40mpg out of it (not bad for a 2ton 240bhp/400lbft diesel).
Also parking the car in a garage helps...the extra warmth means less enrichment on the next cold start (makes about 4mpg difference on my Golf in winter between being parked inside and outside). If the car is put away with a warm engine and the garage is well insulated (door and gaps included, insulate ceiling walls etc), the car will heat it up and it should hold heat until the next morning.
And finally drive like the brakes don't work. If you time lights and roundabouts right and get in the right gear, you don't have to stop meaning less energy wasted in stopping and restarting the vehicle. (Which is conservation of linear momentum...you'll note this when you hit the car infront.
Also there is a set of traffic lights by me that stay red for 5 minutes. If I catch these at rush hour I switch off the engine, as If I'm at the back of traffic, I can wait three light phases to get through them...thats 15minutes of idling!
Short sub 30minute journeys kill engines...fact. It fills the sump with condesation and unburnt fuel, creating foaming, acids and sludge (see the white/brown gunk on the filler). The only way to stop that is drive the car on the motorway for an hour every few weeks or so to boil it all off. DO NOT thrash it...thats the last thing you want to do with water, acid and fuel in the oil, you'll guarantee premature engine wear if you do that!! Or change the oil alot more often (like 3months). Although the latter doesn't fix the carbon fouling on the spark plugs, combustion chambers or exhaust/inlet valves etc which in turn worsen MPG further.
I have this argument with the new Beamer (auto) which sometimes refuses to use 8th gear when cruising (yes it has 8 gears! ), so I have to manually engage it (I think its probably because it regenerating the DPF ). Thats the only way to get above 40mpg out of it (not bad for a 2ton 240bhp/400lbft diesel).
Also parking the car in a garage helps...the extra warmth means less enrichment on the next cold start (makes about 4mpg difference on my Golf in winter between being parked inside and outside). If the car is put away with a warm engine and the garage is well insulated (door and gaps included, insulate ceiling walls etc), the car will heat it up and it should hold heat until the next morning.
And finally drive like the brakes don't work. If you time lights and roundabouts right and get in the right gear, you don't have to stop meaning less energy wasted in stopping and restarting the vehicle. (Which is conservation of linear momentum...you'll note this when you hit the car infront.
Also there is a set of traffic lights by me that stay red for 5 minutes. If I catch these at rush hour I switch off the engine, as If I'm at the back of traffic, I can wait three light phases to get through them...thats 15minutes of idling!
Short sub 30minute journeys kill engines...fact. It fills the sump with condesation and unburnt fuel, creating foaming, acids and sludge (see the white/brown gunk on the filler). The only way to stop that is drive the car on the motorway for an hour every few weeks or so to boil it all off. DO NOT thrash it...thats the last thing you want to do with water, acid and fuel in the oil, you'll guarantee premature engine wear if you do that!! Or change the oil alot more often (like 3months). Although the latter doesn't fix the carbon fouling on the spark plugs, combustion chambers or exhaust/inlet valves etc which in turn worsen MPG further.
Last edited by ALi-B; 19 April 2012 at 01:33 PM.
#29