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RB320 - Serviced - Now warning light and Air Pump failure

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Old 10 May 2012 | 05:33 PM
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Default RB320 - Serviced - Now warning light and Air Pump failure

Hi

RB320 owner.

Car has been running perfect for 2 years. It's just had it's cam belt service done and a few days later the engine warning light came on and wouldn't go off.

Took it back to the garage and they looked up the code which is P2444 (Air Pump Malfunction). They cleared the alarm and I drove the car home fine. The light came back on this morning unfortunately.

They've quoted me £628 + VAT for the part plus £95 labour. (Part number is 14828 AA060)

What's bugged me is that the car was perfect before the service, but they claim that they went no where near the Air Pump.

Can anyone help with this problem?
Old 10 May 2012 | 05:49 PM
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You can look this up, but I think you will find this pump is a ruse to beat emission laws in California.
Get it blanked off and mapped out (that's what I did)
Old 10 May 2012 | 05:49 PM
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Search on here. Have already put a huge amount of info on some threads about this. Trouble is, even though the ECU throws fault code P2444 it may not be that particular valve or pump at fault. Mine was throwing the £700 pump fault code, but when tested the pump was fine.

The 2 solenoid valves are under the headers and very difficult to get to. Have to remove hedders completely to get access to one. These are £300 each. Subaru wanted £1600 to change parts and sort my system out. Ended up taking it off completely and getting a mapper to turn the codes off. Sorted!

Completely pointless system. Not needed for UK market. Runs for 10 seconds when you forst start the car from cold in the morning, then never again once warmed. Only pumps fresh air through the heads to fool emissions checks.

Get rid of it! ------ Air pump system... not car! Lovely car!
Old 10 May 2012 | 06:10 PM
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Ok thanks guys.

So just to check, it's fine just to leave it like this for a month or 2 as I'm a bit broke at the moment as the service was about 1K so.
Old 10 May 2012 | 06:20 PM
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In theory it shouldn’t do any harm really. BUT there could be one of the valves stuck open which MAY cause heat transfer back up the system from the head to the 1 way valve or pump. Very unlikely.

I drove mine for a month before I got the cosworth blanking plates fitted by Rich at FB Tuning. Was fine.
Old 10 May 2012 | 06:28 PM
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Get rid of the air pump it's only there for emissions It's not needed really.
Old 10 May 2012 | 06:28 PM
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The garage had a look at the air pump and couldn't see any problems with it so I'm sure they would have checked the valves etc
Old 10 May 2012 | 06:43 PM
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You could always put the car into self test mode. There is an unplugged connector under the dash around the steering wheel position (green or grey if I remember). If you plug this in and put the ignition on (don’t start the car) it will put all the relays/servos etc into self test mode. With the aid of a long screwdriver on the various parts and an ear you can hear which may or may not be opening. Just remember to unplug the test connectors again once checked.
Old 10 May 2012 | 07:48 PM
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Do you remember how much it cost you to have the cosworth blanking plates fitted?
Old 10 May 2012 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BrownPantsRacing
In theory it shouldn’t do any harm really. BUT there could be one of the valves stuck open which MAY cause heat transfer back up the system from the head to the 1 way valve or pump. Very unlikely.

I drove mine for a month before I got the cosworth blanking plates fitted by Rich at FB Tuning. Was fine.
Even if the valve is stuck open there is a reed valve in there which slams shut in the event of gasses trying to go backwards just after the steel pipe, so you shouldn't end up with any scenario of heat transfer
Old 10 May 2012 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy Charleton
Do you remember how much it cost you to have the cosworth blanking plates fitted?
Unfortunately not as they were fitted at the same time as lots of other upgrade bits and a large bill. I'd estimate a good hours labour minimum and preferably use of a car lift. If one of the bolts for the air pipes to head (or blanking plates) snaps during removal it could be engine out time.
Old 10 May 2012 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rob84
Even if the valve is stuck open there is a reed valve in there which slams shut in the event of gasses trying to go backwards just after the steel pipe, so you shouldn't end up with any scenario of heat transfer
Agreed. Incredibly unlikely.
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