Hi,

WRX STi Spec D 07/07.

I'm going to be changing my engine oil and oil filter today.

Is 4.5 litres of oil about right to put in?


Thanks all.

 

5ltrs,

Mind and fill the filter up before putting it back on te car, give it a few mins each time as the level will constantly drop in the new filter till its almost full,

Thats where folk get confused about 4.5/5ltrs they forget to include the half ltr that goes in the filter

 

4.6-4.8 lt WITH the filter.

 

Ok, but the new filter is tiny. You wouldn't get half a litre in there?

Part No : 15208AA12A. I would say more like 200ml to fill it?

 

Do not put 5lt straight in you will overfill your engine!

Start with 4.5 and you will get it to the max with around 4.6-4.8.

It is also documented in your car's manual.

 

And don't forget the disconnect the crank sensor and build some oil pressure before restarting the engine

 

Never heard of that before?

Only had my car a few months.

What happens if I don't disconnect the crank sensor?
How can I build oil pressure before restarting the engine?

 

It can lead to premature engine wear.

If you disconnect the crank sensor the engine will turn over but not fire and in turn build oil pressure. Do this 5-6 times for 5-10 seconds at a time. Then reconnect the sensor and you're good to go

 

Ah right. And it wont throw up a light of any kind?

 

^^
Whatever you do you MUST remember to do this!!!!!

 

I wouldn't even put 4.5 litres in to begin with as I put 4 in and was over full and yes I had fully drained the system. I would start with 3.5 to begin with, including the oil filter and then just topping it up according to the dip stick. Make sure the ground is level otherwise you will get a false reading.

 

u put around 4 litres in at first

after you start the engine and let it run for a while the level will drop again and another half to maybe 2/3rds of a little is required

top up the oil filter and then put in 4 litres , give it 5 minutes then check the level

never over 3/4 fill it over the dipstick as crankcase pressure will cause excessive blowby if the system is full to the top which can result in blocked boost solenoids and very oily inside the inlet tract

once the cars ran for a couple of minutes let sit for 5 minutes and then rechekc level , top up as necesary but again do not over 3/4 fill the car on the dipstick

oil only sits in the sump , once drained and refilled its only whats in level with the sump that drains so providing the filter is full completely disconecting the cranks sensor shouldnt need to be done , maybe if it was a fresh build ( new engine ) that was bone dry , certainly not one thats had the oil dropped and then refilled again

 

what a load of nonsense - he's having a laugh!!!

 

If you can't be bothered to F*** about with the crank sensor, just turn the engine over with the throttle flat to the floor - the engine well not fire. ECU magic!
You can try this out with the engine warm first if you are sceptical.
4l of oil to start with is what I use and then top up.

 

No he is not having a laugh you deffo should disconnect the crank position sensor and then when you fill with oil turn over the engine a few times.
I cant undersatnd why people dont do it as it takes about 2 secs to disconnect it

It will throw a light up but after about 4 starts the light goes out

 

+1 :thumb. Disconnecting the crank sensor is so last year.

Do not trust the dipstick. If you leave it for a weekend you might get an approximate reading. Otherwise it generally says full on the reverse and empty on the front If anyone has any tips how to get an accurate oil reading I would be interested to hear them.

 

I'm with you on the dipstick. I have tried the 'taking it out and waiting for half an hour to let oil run away which has been dragged up with stick' trick - but still never get a decent reading

 

In the morning, I take out the dipstick and wipe it.

I then leave it out of the dipstick tube for about 10-20 mins - this lets the oil residue (from when I pulled it out) drain back down the tube.

Then re dip the stick, and get an accurate reading. Look on the front of the dipstick, and you will see where oil on both edges wicks and then meets in the middle - it's where it meets in the middle is what I take as the reading.

Lol sorry this post reads a bit like......a bit like it shouldn't lol

 

Really? This is the reason I won`t do my own oil changes, I`m not sure about the correct process and embarrassingly have no idea where the crank sensor is anyway. There should be a sticky about the correct PROVEN method

 

I tried this when I saw it mentioned about another marque. May be year dependent though :warning: A renowned engine builder showed me which sensor to disconnect on MY02 for the 1000 mile oil change after a rebuild. I disconnected the sensor and hey presto the car started

 

 

Everyone is different with how much they put in, what should be done, crank without crank sensor connected, fill the oil filter, 3/4 full on the stick, over the top of the stick etc...................

You could be waiting a very very long time for a definitive answer and thats if it ever comes, there have been many threads on this subject, same as what oil should be used, again everybody runs different grades, does not mean one is better than the other imo its what an individual is happy with or what they know from previous dealings.

Lets just say you were just gonna take the car to dealership for arguments sake, would you specifiy what oil and how much to put in? Or would you let them get on with it?
Probably the latter of the 2 i would immagine so if your not sure then use what subaru specify, they have done the leg work for you already, as your head may become overwhelmed with suggestions and whats gonna be best for the car lol, and that can be a right PITA!

My views also differ to the above but im happy with how the car runs and has done for years so to me its tried and tested and wont differ from it, but if your like me and plan on doing most of the stuff yourself like a simple oil change then only you know what you will be happy with in the long term with the car imo, as what mine does may not replicate on yours and so on.

 

+1

 

I know its good practice to fill the filter but if it's so important why are the oil filters side mounted on so many engines?

 

I thought that too My BMW was the best. Filter on the top of engine. Top off, filter out, new one in, top on...job done

 

because most engines sit vertically rather than horizontal

and it is still good practice to fill them up as much as possible also ( around 1/3 to 1/2 full )

because on subarus the poil filter also sits inline to the oil ports that feed the crankshaft etc , if it runs dry then so does the oil journals in the block to the crankshaft hence the crank will see no oil momentarily until the filter is full

vertical mounted engines are slightly different and mostly have the filter AFTER at the top of the block hence why they can be dry and get away with it

if u think about it in theory it makes sense

 

Oil and filter all changed. Filled the filter first, let the air bubbles rise up to the top of it etc.

Took off old filter (slightly larger filter perhaps?) and let the oil drian out of that area. Wiped that area clean and on the exhaust heat shield. Oiled the seal on the new filter and fitted it tightly, by hand and then a nip with Big Ian's (aka The Monster) jaws of death tool - just a medium / good nip. He had some blue roll around the filter as not to damage / distort it. I think he usually uses this tool to close brake pistons.

Cracked off the sump nut and replaced the squash type O ring only.

Drained the sump out, replaced sump plug (not suprisingly lol!) Poured in approx 4 litres, let it settle for a minute or two and started the engine for 5-10 seconds.

No funny noises, sounded completely normal.

Left it about 5 minutes, and it took perhaps half a litre to get the level to the max on the dipstick (in slugs of approx 100 - 150 ml.)

Didn't unplug the crankshaft sensor, emailed Proven Subaru in Haslemere and they said they don't do that, and would more than likely log a fault code.

I took the car around the block and up the road a bit just to warm it up a bit first, thoughts were it would be a better drain this way.

Anyway, job done, and I'm happy with the result.

 

Well done, very satisfying when you do the job yourself.

 

Thank you, it was mainly The Monster who did the work, but I helped and learned etc.

Was good to be under the car with the undertray off, very clean lump, and no leaks spotted.

 

superb