As above, was just wondering if its necessary to reset ecu after cleaning my IACV and if so how? I've seen it mentioned on some of the American forums whilst googling.

I'm checking the codes tomorrow on my 2003 blob to try and fix a very erratic idle problem, hoping its just a sensor problem

Cheers

Mick

 

How was your rubber seal when you cleaned it?

 

Sorry for the confusion mate, I'm not checking the error codes until tomorrow just wanted a heads up in case the OBD2 reader came up with an IACV fault, I was going to try and find a new gasket before removing, was gonna try AS Performance in the morning as I'm passing them tomorrow for work.
I'm just hoping its something easy like IACV, coolant temp sensor, hopefully nothing sinister lol

Mick

 

Mine had same symptoms as your describing and mine was a filthy icv. But make sure you have a new gasket. The minute you take it off the gasket expands and is useless.

 

Edit.

Mine was hesitation more than erratic idle.

 

Ive got a gasket arriving tomorrow. Clean and refit was planned this week. I'll let you know how it went.

 

Quick update as its not went we'll so far

Story so far, used the car at the weekend to do a short trip (about 3 mile) pulled up outside the house and noticed the revs were going up to around 3k then back down to just over 1k then back up again. Checked dash and management light had illuminated.

Got a mate to plug in his snap on Solaris pro diagnostic tool today and even though the management light was lit up orange the reader couldn't find any stored error codes so he just knocked the light out to start with to see if it came back on.

Started car.... No lights on dash and it sounded fine, took it round the block keeping off boost as it was still cold and soon as I pulled back into yard the revs started fluctuating again and then sat at 2k constantly but the management light stayed out.

Car felt a bit flat to drive although I was driving cautiously, so tonight I've removed the IACV (wasn't too dirty just a little carbon ****e) cleaned it All out and fitted it ready to test drive, car seemed to drive a little smoother but as soon as I dipped the clutch the revs increased then when I pulled back into yard the revs were still fluctuating as before.

So......... Sprayed carb cleaner over all pipes and vac lines to find any leaks but nothing, removed intercooler and visually inspected all pipes/hoses/clips etc etc and everything seems in order.

Anyone fancy having a punt at what to check/do next? Only thing I can think of now would be coolant temp sensor but surely that would have stored a fault code? I did notice that even after a cautious drive along the road only about a mile the coolant header tank and rad were scalding hot but I don't know if I was just worrying myself about bigger problems lol

Can a mapped (standard) ecu cause problem for code readers?

Thanks for any input

Mick

 

Oh and is it true you're meant to reset ecu after cleaning IACV? If so how do you do it just take the negative battery lead off or is there a fuse to pull?

Cheers

Mick

 

Just done my CTS on my hawk for similar reasons, but I'm still getting a slight shake on tickover.

CTS was reading massively out of sync with the dash, but no error. Typically (with N/A cars certainly) they won't throw a code unless they actually fail.

Try getting it health checked on a drive out and see what the ECU is doing. I'm sure there'll be someone in your area that'll plug it in for a few beer tokens.

HTH

 

AFAIK Newage don't have volatile rom, so you need to plug it in to reset the ECU.

Cheers

 

Well if there is someone local willing to help I'm happy to hand out the necessary beer tokens lol

Mick

 

You're a bit too far out for me to nip and sort it pal!

 

Could it be a failing maf sensor. I know on newage cars they are more resilient than classics. Try a gentle clean with a cotton bud.

 

You can reset the ecu by disconnection battery. This however will not clear the codes.

 

Can't do that on newage pal, you can't get to the wire. If you could, I wouldn't anyway... I have the touch of a baby elephant!

I tend to use a wd40 branded electrical contact cleaner (roughly £6) it works wonders, just blast away!! Sadly, if the MAF really is failing, in my experience; cleaning it will only buy a little bit of time.

 

You can't on the newage pal... It's well documented to reset the ECU you need to plug it in.

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...ledge/ECUReset

 

Cheers for the input so far fellas, I did think about maf sensor but as with coolant temp sensor I assumed it would flag a code up.

I do all my own work but I much prefer older motors as its always daft electrical things what go wrong for me! I hate electrics and computers lol!!

I'll have a chat with the lads at AS Performance tomorrow when I call in to pick up the IACV gasket if it comes in.

Thanks again

Mick

 

Thanks for pointing that out buddy. Never want to give misleading info. Cheers.

 

Cool stuff mate.

If its not a vac/air leak anywhere, and has been serviced in the last 5k miles, then it's could well be a duff/decaying sensor.

First things first, a free fix being a MAF clean, I'd go with that.

Then I'd do an IACV clean, after which the CTS (if you have doubts about it) after all, it's only a £40 part. (Shout if you want the part number, got mine from import parts, genuine item).


If you want to be 100% sure, get it data logged.


No worries bud.

I come from the N/A arena, and to me (even on most can-bus) a battery disconnect did an ECU block learn reset, although most ECU tools would let you do it without a disconnect too, so I was surprised to find out the newage are a tool only reset!!

 

Disconnect the battery for a few hours to reset the ECU. The newage ECU will "relearn" and run fine.

Does sound like a MAF.

 

Disconnecting ECU on Newage does not reset the ECU pal.

See the URL in my previous post.

 

Not your pal, sorry. But yes correct, disconnecting the BATTERY will not work, been on classics for a while. Was thinking of the battery charging/lights on intelligent thingey on the Newage.

 

And neither am I yours, so we're even there then. However as it was turn of phrase, one would assume that others would take it as local dialect, and ignore, in this case apparently not.

That's fair enough, as I understand it, the classic has volatile ROM, whereas the Newage don't.

I'm sure that FHI had their reasons (probably race/rally related where batteries have to be disconnected frequently), it's odd still as its been a standard tactic for resetting the block learn on OBDII for quite some time.

 

Another ****e update lol,

Replaced the IACV gasket with a brand new item ( thanks AS Performance ) and cleaned my MAF meter ( not that there was much to clean ) when I start the car now it runs ok maybe a few hundred rpm high but then as soon as I start to drive the car the revs rise whenever you use the clutch then when you stop it idles at just under 2k.

In the process of buying a good used maf just now so if that don't do it I'm hopefully looking at CTS, can someone tell me exactly where the CTS is on a blob STI? Do you need to remove inlet manifold to replace it?

Cheers

Mick

 

CTS is under the alternator left hand side, behind the oil pressure switch if its the same as the Hawk.

Triangular shaped connector.

HTH

 

Helpful indeed if its in the same place fella, I did see the sensor down the side of the alt when I had a quick look but wasn't sure if that was the one for the temp gauge.

Thanks again fella.

Mick

 

Dash Temp gauge runs off of 1 pin, ECU runs off the other two.
The ECU part can fail whilst the dash works ok.

Any time pal.

 

Right then I've just fitted my known to be good used MAF the car seemed better but as soon as I'd been out for about 5 mins and used the power a little (didn't go crazy while it was cold obviously) when depressing the clutch and then stopping and letting it idle the cars gone back to ticking over at just under 2k revs and also revving from 1.5k -2k when it feels like it.

I'm now thinking CTS as its as if the problem only occurs when the coolant will be almost up to temp, could it be the CTS playing up once the coolants warm and sending a duff signal to the ecu?

Anyone suggest anything else?

Cheers

Mick

 

I think you need to get it data logged mate. Find out what's REALLY going on with the ECU.

 

Argh man.... I know but it means its gonna be sat on the drive for another week

It'll be getting broken at this rate I'm not the most patient of people when it come to this ****e

I'll see what AS performance recon in the morn..... He was booked solid for a week and a half or summit last weekend lol

Mick