im after a dump valve but were to get one, what should I be paying ? thanx

 

Ask Tubbytommy. He is the resident expert on here.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-imp...item48555394e5

 

https://www.google.co.uk

 

What's wrong with the standard dump valve?

 

Oh, dear God.........

 

You love it really!

 

^ tame ^

 

Can we please make a sticky thread for dump valves?

OP - if you want a dump valve I'd recommend a Forge Recirc or a GFB Respons or if you are budget limited look for the discontinued part GFB Stealth FX Pro. I would not recommend running a full VTA system based on what I have learned.

Balance Motorsport and Scoobyworld are the best place to look as far as I have found.

 

Halfords......

 

Why not VTA?

 

Really.... Seriously?????

 

Funny thread lol.

 

When you use a VTA it messes up the fuelling due to the ECU being told by the MAF sensor how much air is being drawn in. The ECU then calculates how much fuel to add, when the VTA dump valve bleeds off air this causes the car to run rich. The potential is bore wash and fuel getting past the piston rings into the oil degrading it and screwing up the engine.

 

Yes seriously, it's an important part of my current setup and also on tens of other cars I have setup. It took a few years of R+D to get it right but everyone running my setup is happy with it, I am just curious as to why VTA is hated so much.

 

What if I told you that a VTA can be setup to eradicate that problem. 70% of the cars I have setup run Ecutek with the MAF still in place and none of them have any issues at idle or on boost. You will only get issues with VTA and the MAF if you have it set to dump everything, a good VTA can be set and matched to run perfectly with your current setup and give zero running/fuelling issues.

 

This is interesting !
Someone prepared to stand their ground.

 

Always have been

 

i want a dump valve that flutters instead of pssssst, how do i do it or what dv does it anyone know?

 

It's more about how much volume of charge air you have to play with, FMIC is better for the flutter noise you are after, then you have 2 options really set a Recirc or VTA so that it retains some charge air in the Intercooler and associated pipework which will cause a slight compressor stall and give you the noise you are after at low boost levels, or blank off the DV port and you will have it right through the boost range however that puts huge stress on the turbo and stalls the compressor violently on lift off from full boost, making gear changes potentially jerky and lagy

 

Got to be a wind up this one
The residential dump valve advisors have moved away from scoobynet and have moved to fb
Please contact tubby for authorisation to join us for a 'discussion '
Entry is free as long as you post a picture if your car so we can discuss its suitability for a dv

Ppppssssttttt

 

Hence the reason I said "full VTA". I drove an RB320 with a VTA Forge item and it ran like a bag of nails, yet experimented massively with my GFB Stealth FX on a blob and found little problems below 25% VTA.

I run my GFB full recirc and largely use it as a piece of engine bay bling but understand that there may be some advantage to running slight VTA. If someone wants to comprehensively explain why VTA is good or beneficial I'm open to ideas - please put it on here or the "official thread" I started a while back.

As for flutter I can easily get the flutter sound if I whack the spring up to max, but haven't chosen to keep it like that.

 

VTA is good because it is simply the fastest and most efficient way of getting rid of unused charge air with minimal effect on the compressor and if setup correctly will run with zero faults. This is only my opinion and is the result of several years of testing, where I have found that DV port size, spring ratings, spring travel and the speed at which the DV opens/reacts are all very important when choosing and setting up a VTA

 

Fair enough, that is my understanding and equates to people fitting a VTA without being re-mapped. As some people do not fully realise the effects and as you have added this can be mapped out.

On my Scooby I run a MAP sensor due to my stand alone ECU so no issues for me.

 

What I was trying to say there mate was that a VTA can be setup to eradicate the issues normally associated with VTA without the requirement for a remap.

 

But will the op actually bother to remap the car just to run a fart valve? My 2005 came with a HKS one. Didn't actually run too bad and I'm still getting pops and bangs from the sports cat exhaust since I fitted a standard valve. Just felt like a tit every time the HKS shat its pants. may be its a maturity thing!

 

a) so why buy a VTA then? Why not a hybrid?

b)Surely, what you are saying isn't to use a VTA, then? Yet your initial spiel will give more ammo to those who don't know, and nor do they want to know, they just want the noise..........

 

That's is down to personal choice, as far as I can figure out the only down side to the VTA is the noise, if setup correctly there are no running issues and improvements can be made in through the gears acceleration by managing the charge air correctly.
How do you figure this? I highly recommend using VTA, through all the testing I have done it has proven to be the most efficient and manageable way of dealing with surplus charge air. However it must be setup to suit your car, if you just slap on any old VTA you are asking for issues.

Cheers Iain

 

Isn't this what most people do? I have never heard of anyone paying £200+ to map their car for a fart valve!

 

I have never heard of anyone specifically having a remap carried out purely for the fitment of a VTA, however some have mentioned that a remap is required in order to get your engine running right after fitting a VTA, this is what I was responding to. Saying that its the VTA that should be set correctly to avoid running/fuelling issues.

Also I have not met anyone who has setup their VTA to match their cars current setup

Cheers Iain