What next? RB320, WR1, P1, JDM Sti
#1
What next? RB320, WR1, P1, JDM Sti
After owning three imprezas i decided to be civilised and go for a m3, what a mistake to make which was sold after 6 months of ownership!!
I only do about 2k miles a year and am thinking of getting a Scooby again,
RB320 do these have engine problems being a 2.5ltr?
P1 engine problems especially as they are getting dated!
WR1 no faults known but a tad expensive!
JDM Sti very rare and may take ages to find one!
Do all the 06-07 2.5ltr engines have faults or just the 08-10 ones?
Advice appreciated I need to get back in the saddle!!
Cheers
I only do about 2k miles a year and am thinking of getting a Scooby again,
RB320 do these have engine problems being a 2.5ltr?
P1 engine problems especially as they are getting dated!
WR1 no faults known but a tad expensive!
JDM Sti very rare and may take ages to find one!
Do all the 06-07 2.5ltr engines have faults or just the 08-10 ones?
Advice appreciated I need to get back in the saddle!!
Cheers
#2
Welcome back, personally i'd avoid a 2.5 unless it's been forged, the thread at the top of this page will tell you all you need to know about the 2.5 engine.
As your only doing 2k a year i'd consider a modded Type r over the P1, that or a JDM STI running 450bhp gets my vote,
You don't mention budget.
As your only doing 2k a year i'd consider a modded Type r over the P1, that or a JDM STI running 450bhp gets my vote,
You don't mention budget.
#4
My opinion will be very bias but i vote for an RB320. Fantastic drivers car and as a point to point road car it would be very hard to beat.
They do have the 2.5 engine which it know for head gasket issues caused imo by the weak head bolts and piston ringland fracture if the car is modified for more power. I know of several that have done over 100k without issue but it is always better to get one with a forged re-build, or budget for the work when buying the car. The 2.5 is a fantastic road car engine when fixed. The RB can be easily tuned to 380bhp and 440 ft/lb of torque. If fitted with forged pistons, ARP studs and cosworth stopper gaskets the engine is good for upto 450bhp. So running 380 ish on the standard turbo will give a nice safety margin.
They do have the 2.5 engine which it know for head gasket issues caused imo by the weak head bolts and piston ringland fracture if the car is modified for more power. I know of several that have done over 100k without issue but it is always better to get one with a forged re-build, or budget for the work when buying the car. The 2.5 is a fantastic road car engine when fixed. The RB can be easily tuned to 380bhp and 440 ft/lb of torque. If fitted with forged pistons, ARP studs and cosworth stopper gaskets the engine is good for upto 450bhp. So running 380 ish on the standard turbo will give a nice safety margin.
#6
My opinion will be very bias but i vote for an RB320. Fantastic drivers car and as a point to point road car it would be very hard to beat.
They do have the 2.5 engine which it know for head gasket issues caused imo by the weak head bolts and piston ringland fracture if the car is modified for more power. I know of several that have done over 100k without issue but it is always better to get one with a forged re-build, or budget for the work when buying the car. The 2.5 is a fantastic road car engine when fixed. The RB can be easily tuned to 380bhp and 440 ft/lb of torque. If fitted with forged pistons, ARP studs and cosworth stopper gaskets the engine is good for upto 450bhp. So running 380 ish on the standard turbo will give a nice safety margin.
They do have the 2.5 engine which it know for head gasket issues caused imo by the weak head bolts and piston ringland fracture if the car is modified for more power. I know of several that have done over 100k without issue but it is always better to get one with a forged re-build, or budget for the work when buying the car. The 2.5 is a fantastic road car engine when fixed. The RB can be easily tuned to 380bhp and 440 ft/lb of torque. If fitted with forged pistons, ARP studs and cosworth stopper gaskets the engine is good for upto 450bhp. So running 380 ish on the standard turbo will give a nice safety margin.
so all you need for 450 bhp is an engine rebuild
jdm sti or uk 2.0 will run this power without any problems.
the 2.5 is sh1te in standard form.
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#9
Thats what i said tubbs. Nothing wrong with the 2L and they make great power on standard internals. If you like to drive around with the revs up or dropping gears to over take its the preferred choice. Personally i like to just pump the gas in any gear with no revs to over take, hence why i think its a great road car engine
#10
Thats what i said tubbs. Nothing wrong with the 2L and they make great power on standard internals. If you like to drive around with the revs up or dropping gears to over take its the preferred choice. Personally i like to just pump the gas in any gear with no revs to over take, hence why i think its a great road car engine
but you have to pay 3k to rebuild it before its a reliable engine.
#11
Most RB320's i know of have already been forged. Many as preemptive rather than they went bang. It's a bit more viable to spend the money on a car with a higher resale value. Spending 3k on a car worth 18k is more of a no brainier than 3k on a car worth 6k.
#12
nah you will never convince me the 2.5 engine isnt crap, having to spend 3k on a rebuild is just plain stupid when you can get a 2.0 car with the the same spec and it will be reliable.
Last edited by tubbytommy; 29 August 2013 at 04:38 PM.
#13
I hear what you're saying, in fact you have said it so often i'm starting to feel brainwashed But There is no guaranty any car you buy will not need money spending at some time. A 2L will be just as expensive to rebuild as a 2.5 if its knackered. 2.5 is great when re-built. 2L was great when it was young. Many are a bag of nails now and you will have to spend a premium to buy a good one, just like buying a forged 2.5. Apples and oranges really.
#14
I hear what you're saying, in fact you have said it so often i'm starting to feel brainwashed But There is no guaranty any car you buy will not need money spending at some time. A 2L will be just as expensive to rebuild as a 2.5 if its knackered. 2.5 is great when re-built. 2L was great when it was young. Many are a bag of nails now and you will have to spend a premium to buy a good one, just like buying a forged 2.5. Apples and oranges really.
no guarantee any second hand car will be ok but still better than buying a 2.5 which you are 99% sure will pop and cost 3k at some point.
there are loads of low mileage 2.0 cars about.
#15
Usual arguments prevail, its a difficult choice! I have about £15500 but would prefer to buy for around £10000 - £12000, im done with the modding game and would prefer to buy a ltd edition and keep it as standard as possible, I dont drive hard as I like my cars to last with just the odd weekend of fun!!
Im thinking of looking at a spec c or going for a jdm wr which are a bit cheaper!
Im thinking of looking at a spec c or going for a jdm wr which are a bit cheaper!
#16
#19
To be honest you can find some awesome forged cars if you want a 2.5. Subaru should have made the engine this way to begin with as when it works it's fantastic and forging makes it as reliable as any engine out there.
Have a look on Hurst Cars they tend to sell minters but when I last looked a couple of low mileage forged UK hawks were going for around £12.5k and a forged hatch low mileage for somewhere around £16k if I'm not mistaken.
However if you want a standard car go for a 2.0 model you are unlucky to have much in the way of problems with one. WR1 a nice car in isolation but only comes in one horrid colour and is not as good as the widetrack STi PPP that came out six months later.
Have a look on Hurst Cars they tend to sell minters but when I last looked a couple of low mileage forged UK hawks were going for around £12.5k and a forged hatch low mileage for somewhere around £16k if I'm not mistaken.
However if you want a standard car go for a 2.0 model you are unlucky to have much in the way of problems with one. WR1 a nice car in isolation but only comes in one horrid colour and is not as good as the widetrack STi PPP that came out six months later.
#20
#21
OR....buy a car with a 2.35 forged engine and get a stronger engine with the better torque characteristics without the tendency to crap itself at higher power
You could of course go 2.1 for a cheaper alternative.
You could of course go 2.1 for a cheaper alternative.
#22
Subaru actually issued a press statement about them warning people not to "tune" them outside the factory settings as it would be outside safety margins.
#23
Locally, I know of one hatch that went pop on the road (but after being mapped - not aggressively mind), and a hawk that died on the dyno.
Subaru actually issued a press statement about them warning people not to "tune" them outside the factory settings as it would be outside safety margins.
Subaru actually issued a press statement about them warning people not to "tune" them outside the factory settings as it would be outside safety margins.
so do they pop if not modified then?
#25
I believe most of those reported here were 2008> hatch models. subaru bought in a map revision to try and address the issue. Head gasket failure was more common on the 2006 cars prompting subaru to revise the head gasket. Its true to say non are immune but its also true to say certain issues were more common within certain years of manufacture.
#28
#29
#30
Locally, I know of one hatch that went pop on the road (but after being mapped - not aggressively mind), and a hawk that died on the dyno.
Subaru actually issued a press statement about them warning people not to "tune" them outside the factory settings as it would be outside safety margins.
Subaru actually issued a press statement about them warning people not to "tune" them outside the factory settings as it would be outside safety margins.