Eibach Sportlines to Billies/Blue Prodrive springs
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Eibach Sportlines to Billies/Blue Prodrive springs
Hi All,
I've got a 97' Classic, going from stock dampers and Eibach Sportlines to Bilstein dampers and the blue Prodrive springs made by Eibach, can someone let me know what to expect in terms of ride height?
I'm assuming the Bilstein set up is slightly lower than stock so should sit fairly similar to how it does at the moment..
I've got a 97' Classic, going from stock dampers and Eibach Sportlines to Bilstein dampers and the blue Prodrive springs made by Eibach, can someone let me know what to expect in terms of ride height?
I'm assuming the Bilstein set up is slightly lower than stock so should sit fairly similar to how it does at the moment..
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This was mine on the blue prodrives & kyb's 17's and 215/45/17 tyres
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...t001/RL7-1.jpg
drop is about 25mm
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...t001/RL7-1.jpg
drop is about 25mm
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Thanks Gambit, nice wheels btw! I'm on 225/45/16s so will probs look a bit different, but looks like it'll sit slightly lower than it does at the mo on Eibach Pros.
A couple of fitting questions if anyone can help, the brake pipe brackets are a bit mangled on most of the shocks, what's generally the best way to secure the lines if the brackets can't be saved?
Also I have the complete legs for each corner, springs fitted top mounts on etc, so it's a simple case of unbolting the old ones and bolting these in, but still I've not done this before so any tips etc would be appreciated. I know I have to get the rear seats out to access the rears but I've had the seat out before so know how to do this bit.
A couple of fitting questions if anyone can help, the brake pipe brackets are a bit mangled on most of the shocks, what's generally the best way to secure the lines if the brackets can't be saved?
Also I have the complete legs for each corner, springs fitted top mounts on etc, so it's a simple case of unbolting the old ones and bolting these in, but still I've not done this before so any tips etc would be appreciated. I know I have to get the rear seats out to access the rears but I've had the seat out before so know how to do this bit.
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Cheers, loved those wheels Raceline rl7's, dont see many sets about.
As for your brake lines, plastic tiewrap to the shock body. Thats what i done on the rears to stop my braided lines fouling against inner arch. Fronts i was able to use the eyelets on shock body.
If struts are already assembled then yeah its just straight swap though mark the camber bolts on front to give you a rough setup when refitting, but i guess you'd be getting a geo alignment done at some point?
As for your brake lines, plastic tiewrap to the shock body. Thats what i done on the rears to stop my braided lines fouling against inner arch. Fronts i was able to use the eyelets on shock body.
If struts are already assembled then yeah its just straight swap though mark the camber bolts on front to give you a rough setup when refitting, but i guess you'd be getting a geo alignment done at some point?
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Yes a nice wheel for sure, really suits the impreza aswell.
Thanks for the advice, I've started on the rear, one side done, will do the other tonight then move onto the fronts. Unless I'm going mad am I right in saying to free the brake pipe from the shock you have to cut the bracket?? This is what I've done on the rear I've changed as I couldn't see any other way without removing the brake line, however obviously my car had been fitted with Eibach springs before which they must of had to remove the struts to fit, yet the brake pipe bracket was uncut...
On the front, which bolts are the camber bolts? and how am I best to mark them? I will for sure have a full alignment shortly but would like to achieve a rough set up initially as I've only just had the front done after having alloy arms/alk fitted
Thanks for the advice, I've started on the rear, one side done, will do the other tonight then move onto the fronts. Unless I'm going mad am I right in saying to free the brake pipe from the shock you have to cut the bracket?? This is what I've done on the rear I've changed as I couldn't see any other way without removing the brake line, however obviously my car had been fitted with Eibach springs before which they must of had to remove the struts to fit, yet the brake pipe bracket was uncut...
On the front, which bolts are the camber bolts? and how am I best to mark them? I will for sure have a full alignment shortly but would like to achieve a rough set up initially as I've only just had the front done after having alloy arms/alk fitted
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its usually the top bolts i think. just stick a dot at 12o'clock on the bolt head, and then when you reassemble make sure the bolt is the same position before tightening the nut. you'll see the locking tab washer below the bolt that identifies the camber bolt -or just mark both bolts
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/cata...ca414_1_sd.jpg
if you dont want to disconnect the brakelines then yep small hacksaw through the bracket, bend it out to release the line. then on the new struts do the same but wrap a bit of insulating tape around the cut in the bracket when you bend it back into shape
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/cata...ca414_1_sd.jpg
if you dont want to disconnect the brakelines then yep small hacksaw through the bracket, bend it out to release the line. then on the new struts do the same but wrap a bit of insulating tape around the cut in the bracket when you bend it back into shape
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Thanks for your help on this Gambit, got it done without issue :-) mine sits very much like yours did, a touch tail heavy going by the arch gaps, the complete opposite to how it sat on Eibach Pros! Feels loads better mind!
One final question though, I think one of the rear top mounts is on its way out so I'm going to switch over one from my old dampers, I haven't looked properly at this but i'm assuming tools wise I need spring compressors, and a swan neck spanner, and use an allen key in the top of the damper to stop it twisting? Any tips for removing/refitting the top mount would be appreciated.
One final question though, I think one of the rear top mounts is on its way out so I'm going to switch over one from my old dampers, I haven't looked properly at this but i'm assuming tools wise I need spring compressors, and a swan neck spanner, and use an allen key in the top of the damper to stop it twisting? Any tips for removing/refitting the top mount would be appreciated.
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