Fitting Eibachs in tommorow
#2
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guide to fitting dampers
I used this guide when i fitted my eibachs and new dampers, although in hindsight cutting the damper covers isn't necessary.
When you refit the struts, the top bolt is the camber adjustment, if you want 'prodrive' setup i believe this has to be set at its maximum negative position.
good luck
...and keep plenty of plasters on standby for those knuckles.
eddie
I used this guide when i fitted my eibachs and new dampers, although in hindsight cutting the damper covers isn't necessary.
When you refit the struts, the top bolt is the camber adjustment, if you want 'prodrive' setup i believe this has to be set at its maximum negative position.
good luck
...and keep plenty of plasters on standby for those knuckles.
eddie
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p.s. make sure you follow the advice on aligning the top and bottom seats, if these don't line up, the spring won't be on straight and will rub against your wheel or bodywork.
#4
Cheers for the clicky and info eddie. A little rainy outside to do it today but hopefully better weather next week.
Whats that about the camber setting?...am planning on getting a garage to do it after I have fitted the eibachs
Bob
Whats that about the camber setting?...am planning on getting a garage to do it after I have fitted the eibachs
Bob
Last edited by Aztec Performance Ltd; 18 April 2004 at 12:20 PM.
#5
I've fitted lowering springs,to 2 different Impreza's now and I have to say that
it is one of the most miserable,tedious diy jobs on Earth known to man.
Even if the task goes swimmingly,the aches and pains last for days afterwards
<shudder>....but then,I am an 'over 40'
Both times the springs were fitted at work,in a fully equipped workshop,with access to pneumatic tools/breaker bars etc
IMHO it's well worth paying the £100 or so to pay someone else to do the job,
I know for sure that I won't be doing it again
Jon
it is one of the most miserable,tedious diy jobs on Earth known to man.
Even if the task goes swimmingly,the aches and pains last for days afterwards
<shudder>....but then,I am an 'over 40'
Both times the springs were fitted at work,in a fully equipped workshop,with access to pneumatic tools/breaker bars etc
IMHO it's well worth paying the £100 or so to pay someone else to do the job,
I know for sure that I won't be doing it again
Jon
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if your planning on doing it yourself next weekend, and want the geometry set up by tsl or powerstation etc... get yourself booked in now, i tried to get in at tsl last tuesday, the've got a "full workload until early may".
When i set mine up after fitting the eibachs, i very roughly set up the camber, and went to my local tyre place a few weeks later, after the springs had bedded in.
They charged £50+vat to completely f*ck up the way my car handled.
printout from beissbarth ml4000 wheel alignment showed...
front axle left before -1 20 target -0 25 after -1 05
right before -1 20 target -0 25 after -0 22
so my rough method was more accurate for "prodrive type" setup ...go figure.
Tsl and powerstation have had some very good feedback on here so i would say their worth the extra £'s.
From what i've picked up the prodrive setup if full negative camber on the front and equal camber on the rear, the rear is non adjustable so it has to be gently persuaded.
To get a 'rough' full negative camber, rotate the top bolt on the bottom of the lower leg, this will alter the angle of the angle of the wheel in and out, you want to set it so its fully out at the bottom.
Hope i'm not giving you duff advice but it worked for me.
cheers
eddie
When i set mine up after fitting the eibachs, i very roughly set up the camber, and went to my local tyre place a few weeks later, after the springs had bedded in.
They charged £50+vat to completely f*ck up the way my car handled.
printout from beissbarth ml4000 wheel alignment showed...
front axle left before -1 20 target -0 25 after -1 05
right before -1 20 target -0 25 after -0 22
so my rough method was more accurate for "prodrive type" setup ...go figure.
Tsl and powerstation have had some very good feedback on here so i would say their worth the extra £'s.
From what i've picked up the prodrive setup if full negative camber on the front and equal camber on the rear, the rear is non adjustable so it has to be gently persuaded.
To get a 'rough' full negative camber, rotate the top bolt on the bottom of the lower leg, this will alter the angle of the angle of the wheel in and out, you want to set it so its fully out at the bottom.
Hope i'm not giving you duff advice but it worked for me.
cheers
eddie
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#8
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I've fitted lowering springs,to 2 different Impreza's now and I have to say that
it is one of the most miserable,tedious diy jobs on Earth known to man.
it is one of the most miserable,tedious diy jobs on Earth known to man.
#9
I fitted HKS springs and Cusco front brace today. It turned out to be more of a pain than previous cars for some reason.
I had to hacksaw a notch into the strut where the brake line goes through, and bend it out of the way to remove the line, then bend it back on refitting.
I've got a new Cusco rear brace, but don't know if I can be arsed fitting it as I didn't have it with me at the time, and will have to take out the seats and find the way it fits in. Is it a worthwhile mod, or should I flog it on?
I had to hacksaw a notch into the strut where the brake line goes through, and bend it out of the way to remove the line, then bend it back on refitting.
I've got a new Cusco rear brace, but don't know if I can be arsed fitting it as I didn't have it with me at the time, and will have to take out the seats and find the way it fits in. Is it a worthwhile mod, or should I flog it on?
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