Adustable 22mm whiteline ARB and drop links fitted
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Adustable 22mm whiteline ARB and drop links fitted
I fitted my whiteline rear ARB and drop links to my blobeye today. What a difference!! I still have standard springs at the moment, but i actually think it has dialled out more understeer than when i had the eibachs fitted to my last bugeye!!! The initail turn in so much better, and the car feels so much more neutral, almost twitchy!! The car rolls a lot less, i can tell as my mudflaps aren't dragging as much Fantastic mod, and for £100 from Demon tweeks, its such a worth while mod!!
I'm still getting the springs done, as that seems to give a lot more steering feedback and control, plus it drops it 25mm for that "look"!!!!
I'm still getting the springs done, as that seems to give a lot more steering feedback and control, plus it drops it 25mm for that "look"!!!!
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Austen,
Then go 1 step further and fit the anti lift kit I thought the bugeye handled well until I fitted the full whiteline kit...awesome!
Then go 1 step further and fit the anti lift kit I thought the bugeye handled well until I fitted the full whiteline kit...awesome!
#4
Do the sensible thing.
Fit ALL the whiteline stuff + Power Station set-up as you will all end there eventually!
I got to that point and beyond 2 years ago, what a difference!
911
Fit ALL the whiteline stuff + Power Station set-up as you will all end there eventually!
I got to that point and beyond 2 years ago, what a difference!
911
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Is the ALK actually worth it on the newage then?? Does it effect anything other than reducing lift during acceleration and brake dive? i.e. any better during cornering?
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Originally Posted by austen_wrx
Is the ALK actually worth it on the newage then?? Does it effect anything other than reducing lift during acceleration and brake dive? i.e. any better during cornering?
The name "anti-lift" kit is something of a misnomer. The ALK actually INCREASES dive and lift! The name comes from the fact that it changes the anti-dive/lift geometry component. Whiteline has even admitted that they probably should have called it a castor kit. The benefits come from increased positive castor, giving more dynamic negative camber in turns and effectively softening the front suspension, giving more front end grip, especially on a bumpy surface.
As for its' suitability on the new age car, I'll leave that for someone else with that experience.
John
Last edited by superstring; 29 January 2005 at 11:59 PM.
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Austen I take it from you name that your car is a WRX Blobeye, I have an STi Blobeye and I'm looking at the whiteline kit but wasn't sure if I should fit the rear 24mm adj anti roll bar or the 22mm. Has anyone else got any views on what bars etc to fit to the STis ?
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Originally Posted by Boyakasha
Austen I take it from you name that your car is a WRX Blobeye, I have an STi Blobeye and I'm looking at the whiteline kit but wasn't sure if I should fit the rear 24mm adj anti roll bar or the 22mm. Has anyone else got any views on what bars etc to fit to the STis ?
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Originally Posted by austen_wrx
I thought the 24mm bar was for track use only?? From what i have read on here the 22mm is the one to go for. I can't see any reason why the STI would require a more uprated one than the WRX.
Andy
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I have seen that they also do a 27mm so I guess that would be the race version. Not sure about the thickness of the original bar but I would have thought the STi one would have been thicker than the WRX.
#13
Originally Posted by austen_wrx
If the rear STI bar is 19mm as standard at the rear, i would assume its the same as the WRX, therefore the 22mm would be an upgrade. ?
Dipster
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Originally Posted by Andy.F
What was the front bar diameter ?
#18
Has anyone just fitted uprated droplinks on an sti, wouldnt this increase the stiffness of the std setup by taking up the slack in the std system? without changing the bar.
Dipster
Dipster
#19
You should first go to the www.whiteline.com.au site for their advice based on their project cars.
IMHO you should follow that advice, and fit front and rear bars in their reccommended sizes.
There are 'race' ie stiff buggers, but they carry a warning that mountings will break in use unless stiffenrd/replaced and that poor raod characteristics may follow installation.
911
IMHO you should follow that advice, and fit front and rear bars in their reccommended sizes.
There are 'race' ie stiff buggers, but they carry a warning that mountings will break in use unless stiffenrd/replaced and that poor raod characteristics may follow installation.
911
#20
Suspension upgrade is my next move so this thread is usefull. MY97 STi3 wagon, measured the F & R ARBs today, F:19mm R:20mm
I'm presuming that 22mm adjustable F&R would make it possible to maintain an upgraded difference but would have thought that the front would have been the thicker of the two (or is it because it's a wagon?)
I'm presuming that 22mm adjustable F&R would make it possible to maintain an upgraded difference but would have thought that the front would have been the thicker of the two (or is it because it's a wagon?)
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Originally Posted by superstring
Hi Austen
The name "anti-lift" kit is something of a misnomer. The ALK actually INCREASES dive and lift! The name comes from the fact that it changes the anti-dive/lift geometry component. Whiteline has even admitted that they probably should have called it a castor kit. The benefits come from increased positive castor, giving more dynamic negative camber in turns and effectively softening the front suspension, giving more front end grip, especially on a bumpy surface.
As for its' suitability on the new age car, I'll leave that for someone else with that experience.
John
The name "anti-lift" kit is something of a misnomer. The ALK actually INCREASES dive and lift! The name comes from the fact that it changes the anti-dive/lift geometry component. Whiteline has even admitted that they probably should have called it a castor kit. The benefits come from increased positive castor, giving more dynamic negative camber in turns and effectively softening the front suspension, giving more front end grip, especially on a bumpy surface.
As for its' suitability on the new age car, I'll leave that for someone else with that experience.
John
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Originally Posted by davedipster
Has anyone just fitted uprated droplinks on an sti, wouldnt this increase the stiffness of the std setup by taking up the slack in the std system? without changing the bar.
Dipster
Dipster
Alloy Drop Links F&R
22mm Fr Adj Anti Roll Bar
22mm Rear Adj Anti Roll Bar
Anti Lift Kit
I'll let you know how it handles once I get it fitted.
Marc
#25
Originally Posted by Boyakasha
Dipster I just ordered the following whiteline gear for my 03 STi:
Alloy Drop Links F&R
22mm Fr Adj Anti Roll Bar
22mm Rear Adj Anti Roll Bar
Anti Lift Kit
I'll let you know how it handles once I get it fitted.
Marc
Alloy Drop Links F&R
22mm Fr Adj Anti Roll Bar
22mm Rear Adj Anti Roll Bar
Anti Lift Kit
I'll let you know how it handles once I get it fitted.
Marc
Gerry
#26
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petesmith,
you should see no more increased tyre wear than normal if you add positive caster. This is a better method of reducing understeer than dialing in more negative camber. It's the camber that will scrub tyres if you do a lot of motorway driving.
On another note ...
The roll bars transform the handling, but it needs the right geometry to get the best out the car. As Graham (911) has said time and time again, go with the Whiteline geometry if you want great handling. You may need to fit top mounts to get the caster changed as well as some camber bolts to setup the rear.
That'sa very good setup for the road, but it can only be bettered by either changing the suspension dampers/springs for coilovers or a more compliant setup such as uprated dampers & springs (e.g. STI suspension, P1 suspension, OE dampers + Eibach springs, etc..)
If anyone is considering coilovers, then they should think very carefully and get real-life experience. A lot of the aftermarket kits are just built to be as low and as hard as possible. The key is being able to match the spring rates and the ratio between front and rear.
Stefan
you should see no more increased tyre wear than normal if you add positive caster. This is a better method of reducing understeer than dialing in more negative camber. It's the camber that will scrub tyres if you do a lot of motorway driving.
On another note ...
The roll bars transform the handling, but it needs the right geometry to get the best out the car. As Graham (911) has said time and time again, go with the Whiteline geometry if you want great handling. You may need to fit top mounts to get the caster changed as well as some camber bolts to setup the rear.
That'sa very good setup for the road, but it can only be bettered by either changing the suspension dampers/springs for coilovers or a more compliant setup such as uprated dampers & springs (e.g. STI suspension, P1 suspension, OE dampers + Eibach springs, etc..)
If anyone is considering coilovers, then they should think very carefully and get real-life experience. A lot of the aftermarket kits are just built to be as low and as hard as possible. The key is being able to match the spring rates and the ratio between front and rear.
Stefan
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If you want to improve handling - is fitting Anti Lift Kits, ARBs Drop links etc a better option than having new springs fitted? (Eibachs).
I'd like to improve the handling on my MY00 but as my house is surrounded by bumpy pot-holed ridden roads I don't to make the ride quality a lot worse esp. as there's quite often a baby in the back...
I'd like to improve the handling on my MY00 but as my house is surrounded by bumpy pot-holed ridden roads I don't to make the ride quality a lot worse esp. as there's quite often a baby in the back...
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Originally Posted by messiah
If you want to improve handling - is fitting Anti Lift Kits, ARBs Drop links etc a better option than having new springs fitted? (Eibachs).
I'd like to improve the handling on my MY00 but as my house is surrounded by bumpy pot-holed ridden roads I don't to make the ride quality a lot worse esp. as there's quite often a baby in the back...
I'd like to improve the handling on my MY00 but as my house is surrounded by bumpy pot-holed ridden roads I don't to make the ride quality a lot worse esp. as there's quite often a baby in the back...
#29
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Eibachs won't affect the ride quality. They compliment the OE springs on the MY99/00 cars very well. It was the 1st mod I did to my suspension and it was the first thing people (other MY99/00 owners) commented on with my car when I took them for a spin.
It just helped the car during cornering, but more with the undulating backroads here in Scotland.
There's obviously more of a cost involved with replacing springs than just fitting the bars and drop links.
If I was given the choice of springs OR arb's then I'd go with the ARB's. But I'd want to do the geometry too, which would mean camber bolts and possibly top-mounts (for caster). I'd save my pennies and do them with the springs at a later date.
Stefan
It just helped the car during cornering, but more with the undulating backroads here in Scotland.
There's obviously more of a cost involved with replacing springs than just fitting the bars and drop links.
If I was given the choice of springs OR arb's then I'd go with the ARB's. But I'd want to do the geometry too, which would mean camber bolts and possibly top-mounts (for caster). I'd save my pennies and do them with the springs at a later date.
Stefan
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Originally Posted by austen_wrx
Anychance you can fit them in stages so you can tell us what difference they make Rear ARB first, Front ARB, then ALK
Originally Posted by Hougton
Ordered the same for mine from Demon Tweaks yesterday. I guess you know about the group buy that's running.
Gerry
Gerry
ozzy, do you have the whiteline settings, as I'll be getting the geom set-up straight after the stuff is fitted