Fast road geometry settings - classic
#1
Fast road geometry settings - classic
Can someone please advise what setting to use for a classic 99 Turbo running standard suspension on 18" rubber? For fast road and occasional track use.
Getting it done next friday but need settings advice please
Also will fit Whiteline droplinks next, should I expect to notice a difference with them, seem better value than a rear strut brace, that seems cosmetic to me but I may be wrong
cheers
Getting it done next friday but need settings advice please
Also will fit Whiteline droplinks next, should I expect to notice a difference with them, seem better value than a rear strut brace, that seems cosmetic to me but I may be wrong
cheers
#2
Can someone please advise what setting to use for a classic 99 Turbo running standard suspension on 18" rubber? For fast road and occasional track use.
Getting it done next friday but need settings advice please
Also will fit Whiteline droplinks next, should I expect to notice a difference with them, seem better value than a rear strut brace, that seems cosmetic to me but I may be wrong
cheers
Getting it done next friday but need settings advice please
Also will fit Whiteline droplinks next, should I expect to notice a difference with them, seem better value than a rear strut brace, that seems cosmetic to me but I may be wrong
cheers
I can dig mine out to-night I have a MY99 on standard suspension, and was set-up for fast road.
The best upgrade was to have the whitline antilift kit fitted, this gets rid of all the understeer into corners, and improves grip off the line, also had fitted whiteline rear drop links and full geometry alignment, totally different car now, very responsive.
You will be looking at getting the most caster on the front with about 1to 1.5 degree negative camber, on the front, not sure on the rear will have a look later.
If you visit the whitline website I remember seeing a document called rex on rails it’s a good read.
#3
Thanks for the advice Eprom.
The company doing the settings will set her up to any settings I want, so I need to tell them what i want.
I can probably fit the whiteline anti lift kit and drop links before then - I will see what that costs now and decide.
I assume your settings should be good for the whiteline set up, but unproven on my standard set up - am i reading this correctly? I think you are saying to make this worthwhile I probably best to get the whiteline kit on first and then have the gemoetry done. That way I also avoid having to set up the geometry twice, before and after fitting the whiteline stuff?
Cheers
The company doing the settings will set her up to any settings I want, so I need to tell them what i want.
I can probably fit the whiteline anti lift kit and drop links before then - I will see what that costs now and decide.
I assume your settings should be good for the whiteline set up, but unproven on my standard set up - am i reading this correctly? I think you are saying to make this worthwhile I probably best to get the whiteline kit on first and then have the gemoetry done. That way I also avoid having to set up the geometry twice, before and after fitting the whiteline stuff?
Cheers
#4
The Whiteline Automotive - performance handling and suspension products. car spring coil shock damper swaybar sway bar anti-sway bush bushes australia australian whiteline automotive performance road holding turn-in camber caster toe in vehicle hot 4 v8 site has several project cars past and present. They give you tons of detail to follow.
For the alignment shop to say 'tell me what you want' is a bit of a cop-out imho.
The settings for road are quite different to race, and also the combination of mods you have must be taken into account. IE
If you have stock top mounts then caster is fixed and the ALK is a good mod.
If you have Noltec/Whiteline tops then no need for ALK as the caster can be almost doubled and is adjustable.
You may want to invest in camber bolts all round before the alignment.
Other than fitting roll bars/links you will need alignment to the car.
For the alignment shop to say 'tell me what you want' is a bit of a cop-out imho.
The settings for road are quite different to race, and also the combination of mods you have must be taken into account. IE
If you have stock top mounts then caster is fixed and the ALK is a good mod.
If you have Noltec/Whiteline tops then no need for ALK as the caster can be almost doubled and is adjustable.
You may want to invest in camber bolts all round before the alignment.
Other than fitting roll bars/links you will need alignment to the car.
#5
Thanks for the advice Eprom.
The company doing the settings will set her up to any settings I want, so I need to tell them what i want.
I can probably fit the whiteline anti lift kit and drop links before then - I will see what that costs now and decide.
I assume your settings should be good for the whiteline set up, but unproven on my standard set up - am i reading this correctly? I think you are saying to make this worthwhile I probably best to get the whiteline kit on first and then have the gemoetry done. That way I also avoid having to set up the geometry twice, before and after fitting the whiteline stuff?
Cheers
The company doing the settings will set her up to any settings I want, so I need to tell them what i want.
I can probably fit the whiteline anti lift kit and drop links before then - I will see what that costs now and decide.
I assume your settings should be good for the whiteline set up, but unproven on my standard set up - am i reading this correctly? I think you are saying to make this worthwhile I probably best to get the whiteline kit on first and then have the gemoetry done. That way I also avoid having to set up the geometry twice, before and after fitting the whiteline stuff?
Cheers
The ultimate would be to put poly bushes everywhere, rose jointed links and coil over suspension, but as a daily driver you would hate it.
It would be harsh, noisy, but would handle superbly. People get mixed up between handling and grip, the impreza has loads of grip as standard and moderately good handling, but this can be improved with a little outlay, on a car used on the road.
I would go for ALK, front and rear drop links, as the plastic ones flex, and a good geometry alignment for fast road use, by someone who has experience on the impreza, you can then save up and buy uprated anti-roll bars if you want to push harder. ( if you fit stiffer anti-roll bars at a later date, these will not effect the goemetry, but you may need to dial in some negative camber into the rear, to prevent lift-off oversteer.)
This was on a MY99 which is my car, that I have had from new, and as said it made a big improvement.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Eprom; 29 February 2008 at 03:57 PM. Reason: advice added
#6
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what i did
upper and lower front and rear strut braces
ALK
poly front ARB bushes
Whiteline rear ARB on middle hole
1.2camber front
0 toe front
1.1 camber rear
0.03 toe rear
whitline steering rack bushes
lowered 35mm on shocks and springs, drives nice for a road car
upper and lower front and rear strut braces
ALK
poly front ARB bushes
Whiteline rear ARB on middle hole
1.2camber front
0 toe front
1.1 camber rear
0.03 toe rear
whitline steering rack bushes
lowered 35mm on shocks and springs, drives nice for a road car
#7
IMHO:
#5 and #6 are examples of spot-on advice.
You can certainly improve the Impreza for very little money considering the benefits of improved handling/safety/speed/predictability.
BUT
Then you might want for more, and that is where the compromise bites.
My hillclimb/road car (note in that order) has a rubber free chassis, about all the bits you can think of/buy/get given and the car is fantastic on a good B road, A road. Horrid on a C road!
Compromise.
The ALK will take away some of the understeer, but you do need to dial-in a lot of caster to nearly erradicate the characteristic in the dry.
All good fun, and you will want more.
I have warned you lot!
The first bend in the vid is taken at 86 mph...
DropShots.com
#5 and #6 are examples of spot-on advice.
You can certainly improve the Impreza for very little money considering the benefits of improved handling/safety/speed/predictability.
BUT
Then you might want for more, and that is where the compromise bites.
My hillclimb/road car (note in that order) has a rubber free chassis, about all the bits you can think of/buy/get given and the car is fantastic on a good B road, A road. Horrid on a C road!
Compromise.
The ALK will take away some of the understeer, but you do need to dial-in a lot of caster to nearly erradicate the characteristic in the dry.
All good fun, and you will want more.
I have warned you lot!
The first bend in the vid is taken at 86 mph...
DropShots.com
Last edited by 911; 29 February 2008 at 05:55 PM.
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