WHITELINE!?!?! ARGH
06 November 2008, 11:17 PM
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WHITELINE!?!?! ARGH
i've seen alot of good reports on whiteline stuff,
but being somebody that know owt about them, i am pulling my hair
car is wrx 01 (bugeye)
i'm looking for droplinks and arbs
Q1, How and where is the adjustable thingy located, is there a point for adjustable ones? if its only road use cos i doubt i'm gonna keep changing it,
Q2, drop links.....ALLOY OR Steel?
Q3, anyone got any part numbers for any of them?
Q4, will this fit on mine? rallynuts.com motorsport : Whiteline Anti-Roll Bar Drop Link Kit Alloy Box Set Subaru Impreza motor sports & karting
obviously i'll need front and rear on all of these?
last but not least where is the cheapest for these?
all the websites i've been to are so confusing and the only one that i understand are from scoobyclinic's and rallynuts site
however it looks like i need to buy the bar and then the brackets separately?? (or at least at the clinic's site)
but being somebody that know owt about them, i am pulling my hair
car is wrx 01 (bugeye)
i'm looking for droplinks and arbs
Q1, How and where is the adjustable thingy located, is there a point for adjustable ones? if its only road use cos i doubt i'm gonna keep changing it,
Q2, drop links.....ALLOY OR Steel?
Q3, anyone got any part numbers for any of them?
Q4, will this fit on mine? rallynuts.com motorsport : Whiteline Anti-Roll Bar Drop Link Kit Alloy Box Set Subaru Impreza motor sports & karting
obviously i'll need front and rear on all of these?
last but not least where is the cheapest for these?
all the websites i've been to are so confusing and the only one that i understand are from scoobyclinic's and rallynuts site
however it looks like i need to buy the bar and then the brackets separately?? (or at least at the clinic's site)
07 November 2008, 10:45 AM
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Get a BSR33Z rear ARB (comes with everything to fit), KLC26 alloy or KLC19 rear droplinks (whatever takes your fancy) and a KCA359 anti lift kit. It will transform your car! If you want to further get a BSF33Z front ARB and KLC32 alloy droplinks. You could go for the KLC39 front adjustable droplinks which allow you to adjust any pre-tension out, but these are rosejointed and will be noisy at times (more for track use I suppose).
Want to further still? Get the KSR202 steering rack bushes and KCA313 rollcentre adjustment kit that replaces front ball joints and track rod ends. KSB750 rear subframe lock bolts are a nice addition to centre and lock the rear subframe.
Want to further still? Get the KSR202 steering rack bushes and KCA313 rollcentre adjustment kit that replaces front ball joints and track rod ends. KSB750 rear subframe lock bolts are a nice addition to centre and lock the rear subframe.
07 November 2008, 09:18 PM
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Best to stick to rear arb, and drop links, as this will help a lot.
IF you do front and rear, then whatever has been done to the rear will cancel itself out so you'll be back to square one, but be a little better on turn in.
IF you do front and rear, then whatever has been done to the rear will cancel itself out so you'll be back to square one, but be a little better on turn in.
07 November 2008, 09:50 PM
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I agree with Mrchips, do the rear bar first and then chase it later if you need to ( I did ! ). Disagree about the "total" result tho', mine now grips like a crazy thing and is nice and neutral ( I am VERY old ! ).
The adjustable bit is good for normal use ( medium ), then 10 minutes gives you a choice for track use/ fun run out with the lads...
Steel do the job, alloy look bling, I got alloy.
HTH
DunxC
P.S. Don't bother with the mounts as they are track use really imho.
The adjustable bit is good for normal use ( medium ), then 10 minutes gives you a choice for track use/ fun run out with the lads...
Steel do the job, alloy look bling, I got alloy.
HTH
DunxC
P.S. Don't bother with the mounts as they are track use really imho.
07 November 2008, 10:14 PM
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i am looking into adjustable front and rear 22 and 24 and droplinks for the rear, (gonna look into the front to see if they are metal, )
how are they adjusted? do the car need to be lifted to do it?
how are they adjusted? do the car need to be lifted to do it?
07 November 2008, 11:09 PM
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Front needs reinforcing U-beam removing, if you do I'd go for it, do the ALK at the same time, as it's half the labour bill ! And yes it needs lifting or ramps !
IMHO
DunxC
P.S. three holes on a rear bar, two on the front, rear bar is stiffer as you move forward a hole, front is harder set to the rear hole IIRC
EDITTED due to length of time since fitted ! Back to front, DOH !
IMHO
DunxC
P.S. three holes on a rear bar, two on the front, rear bar is stiffer as you move forward a hole, front is harder set to the rear hole IIRC
EDITTED due to length of time since fitted ! Back to front, DOH !
Last edited by dunx; 09 November 2008 at 04:52 PM.
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08 November 2008, 12:16 AM
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Duncx, i always thought the hole closest to the rear was the stiffest setting on the rear arb
if i'm wrong i'm crawling uder my car this weekend lol.
Aaron
if i'm wrong i'm crawling uder my car this weekend lol.Aaron
08 November 2008, 12:06 PM
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08 November 2008, 06:29 PM
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It's a bar of fixed torsional rigidity, so a longer lever makes it easier to twist, i.e. softer.
HTH
DunxC
P.S. Just stick one on with the middle setting.... honest ! Then if you want a bit more "drift-spec" then move the bolts to the forward setting and slide-o-rama !
HTH
DunxC
P.S. Just stick one on with the middle setting.... honest ! Then if you want a bit more "drift-spec" then move the bolts to the forward setting and slide-o-rama !
09 November 2008, 03:14 PM
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Think we're just getting confused with the words. If the bar is the bit across the car and the bit at 90 deg to it is an arm then the hole nearest to the bar is the rear most one. If the bar is the complete assembly then the hole nearest to the end of the bar is the front most one.
Think of the bar as being stiffer the more you try and twist. Then think of the arm as a lever. If the car rolls by an inch then with a short lever you need to twist the bar a lot, with a long lever you don't need to twist it so much.
So for the rear bar (with arms that face forwards) the hole nearest the front of the car wll be softer since the lever is longer.
Think of the bar as being stiffer the more you try and twist. Then think of the arm as a lever. If the car rolls by an inch then with a short lever you need to twist the bar a lot, with a long lever you don't need to twist it so much.
So for the rear bar (with arms that face forwards) the hole nearest the front of the car wll be softer since the lever is longer.
09 November 2008, 04:50 PM
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Doh !
Been a while since I was under the rear... mine's on stiffest and I'm a happy bunny !
Grabs coat and runs....
DunxC
Been a while since I was under the rear... mine's on stiffest and I'm a happy bunny !
Grabs coat and runs....
DunxC
09 November 2008, 05:26 PM
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Think we're just getting confused with the words. If the bar is the bit across the car and the bit at 90 deg to it is an arm then the hole nearest to the bar is the rear most one. If the bar is the complete assembly then the hole nearest to the end of the bar is the front most one.
Think of the bar as being stiffer the more you try and twist. Then think of the arm as a lever. If the car rolls by an inch then with a short lever you need to twist the bar a lot, with a long lever you don't need to twist it so much.
So for the rear bar (with arms that face forwards) the hole nearest the front of the car wll be softer since the lever is longer.
Think of the bar as being stiffer the more you try and twist. Then think of the arm as a lever. If the car rolls by an inch then with a short lever you need to twist the bar a lot, with a long lever you don't need to twist it so much.
So for the rear bar (with arms that face forwards) the hole nearest the front of the car wll be softer since the lever is longer.
Aaron
21 November 2008, 04:47 PM
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Get a BSR33Z rear ARB (comes with everything to fit), KLC26 alloy or KLC19 rear droplinks (whatever takes your fancy) and a KCA359 anti lift kit. It will transform your car! If you want to further get a BSF33Z front ARB and KLC32 alloy droplinks. You could go for the KLC39 front adjustable droplinks which allow you to adjust any pre-tension out, but these are rosejointed and will be noisy at times (more for track use I suppose).
Want to further still? Get the KSR202 steering rack bushes and KCA313 rollcentre adjustment kit that replaces front ball joints and track rod ends. KSB750 rear subframe lock bolts are a nice addition to centre and lock the rear subframe.
Want to further still? Get the KSR202 steering rack bushes and KCA313 rollcentre adjustment kit that replaces front ball joints and track rod ends. KSB750 rear subframe lock bolts are a nice addition to centre and lock the rear subframe.
any body no the best place to buy these items from please
21 November 2008, 05:58 PM
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There is a groupbuy at the moment, on anything whiteline i believe.
Aaron
https://www.scoobynet.com/group-buys...-groupbuy.html
Aaron
https://www.scoobynet.com/group-buys...-groupbuy.html
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