Thermalp4

iTrader: (3)

Hi Guys.

Got a knocking coming from the rear passenger side and after deciding to replace the shocks it was suggested to me to have a look at the drop links first.

Had a look at the side in question and the drop link was leaking grease out of the little rubber pocket so I assume this could be the knocking.

Anyway, trying to source some standard parts and having some trouble.

Did they change the type of droplinks on later STi models from a "C" shape to a "Z" sort of shape?

Mine are a Z shape. My local autoparts lists the Z shape for the front and C shape for the back but I did notice on their computer that it was only showing 2003 STi.

I also notice that Eurocarparts going on my reg lists the correct Z shape droplinks but only for the front also. Could this be because the fronts are the same as rears?

Thanks guys.

Gambit

iTrader: (6)

Rears are this shape
http://www.camskill.co.uk/smsimg/888...s78506-888.jpg

fronts are this shape
http://www.camskill.co.uk/smsimg/811...-main--811.jpg

i made my own rears (can also be made up for front)
http://www.scoobyireland.com/forum/y...-spec-d-3.html

Thermalp4

iTrader: (3)

The ones i've taken off the back are exactly the same as the ones that you've listed for the front there?

That is strange.

The ones you have listed for the back are the same as the auto parts place listed for me.

Gambit

iTrader: (6)

then somebody has fitted the wrong droplinks and that will probably cause a lot of clunking

if you look at this picture
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...ps835632ff.jpg

it shows you that the bracket on rear trailing arm is level with the rear antiroll bar - so to fit the Z shape would cause all sorts of twisting on the drop link

the only other thing i could think (which is a bit of a wild thought!) if somebody fitted as non-widetrack rear anti roll bar

would really need to see a pic of your setup to get a better understanding

Thermalp4

iTrader: (3)

Yes I agree.

It is strange because surely nothing other than the correct part will fit.

I'll go back and check.

Wonder if someone has fitted a non wide track anti roll bar too?

Very much doubt it though.

53

iTrader: (41)

Whiteline KLC32

Gambit

iTrader: (6)

you can make better for half the price

53

iTrader: (41)

Go on then, ill-inform away

They're that shyte every man with a CAD and CNC facility seems to rip them off

Gambit

iTrader: (6)

where did anyone say shíte?

i said you can make better for half the price - have a look at KLC047 - whiteline made them ohh and look any man can buy the same stuff without the need for CAD & CNC machine

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...ps835632ff.jpg

53

iTrader: (41)

I wouldn't fit rose jointed drop links full stop KLC32 are the best option, although in 99% of applications the original fitment metal droplinks are best

KLC047 aren't very good and I wouldn't replicate them or buy them lol

The movement you get with an OEM droplink is more dynamic and the KLC32 is more aggressive in it's resistance to forces placed on it during cornering, which in turn allows the bar and suspension to operate with more stability. I can't see why you would bother with rose jointed drop links or see the forces it would mitigate by it's design

Thermalp4

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys for the replies.

Don't know what I've been looking at.

All parts match up.

I think I might stick with OEM for now.

Gambit

iTrader: (6)

bit of a sweeping statement - in what way are they not very good then?

53

iTrader: (41)

I believe I asked the question first

Fonzey

iTrader: (5)

My car is currently in with Chevron getting setup (widetrack) and they've recommended the Whiteline adjustable type to replace my previous solid with a bushing in each end type.

I'm pretty sure the only adjustable ones available are the rosejoint type.

Good effort on the DIY, they look ace

53

iTrader: (41)

Go on then I'll answer first personal opinion but all IMHO ...rose jointed links will wear out faster and invariable distort/bend as there is nothing to mitigate the impact from the uneven road surfaces during usage. For the most part rose jointed parts should only really be used on track/race cars due to the road surface quality and abuse the suspension will sustain. The actual benefits of using a rose jointed link compared to polyurethane bushed links with metal inserts is negligible, so it makes them kind of pointless in terms of the cost, wear, suitability and maintenance

Granted you've made a tidy job of making yours and I always commend home solutions but I still prefer the hard bushed solid links to rose jointed ones

Suitability of a products application should always out weigh what you perceive to be a 'better' product in isolation

Hopefully that explains it better, like I say I like your ingenuity in making your own

Gambit

iTrader: (6)

The first time you posted about klc32 i initially thought they where soley for use on front with steel arms as i had a set on my old classic but see that they now do both - so for me i would never have considered them because i didnt think fitted.

As for why i chose the rose joint well its simply because i seen the whiteline ones and thought i could make them plus fact rose joints will give quickest response on up/down movement

i read alot about the complaints of the whiteline and believed that was due to the half moon dust covers which let in dirt and water. I went with full one piece dust covers and brass inserts which are also self lubricating so im hoping theyll last, so far so good

As for using klc32 on rear I didnt think you could use them because it doesnt allow for the natural horizontal movement/float that occurs, so the bar is forcing against the bush on one side and basically trying to pull it through on the other whereas you only want the up down force on it. But im in no way qualified to say this is or isnt true its just my opinion on it. Rose joints and the std items allow this horizontal movement.

But mostly reason behind it was, i like a challenge and basically sticking 2 fingers up at whiteline and saying for what you want 150 for i can do better for 50!

You can do it cheaper again with cheaper rose joints but i went the better quality to hopefully get a decent lifespan outta them