Possible detailing group deal.
02 January 2007, 07:27 PM
#1
Possible detailing group deal.
I have seriously been considering having some professional detailing done on my car lately, and I know that Simon and rob are also interested as well so I have been chatting on one of the Lotus forums to a guy called Matthew from Cheshire about detailing and a possible group deal. 
He says he will travel for enough work other that its a drive to his place.
Looking at some of the work he has done i must say it looks the dog's and he has done detailing on some rather expensive car's to date,
speaking to him he talks the right tune as well which is comforting.
I am going to ask him to pop on here and tell you about what he can offer and for him to show us some of his work then its up to you to make your own judgement's
Obviously its all down to cost if your happy with what you see so fire away with as many questions as you want, when he introduces himself.
I am going to place my name down on a provisional list for a machine polish so please post your name if your seriously interested in his services and we will see what happens.
I am sure Matthew will provide you with contact details price's etc if you wish to speak off forum.
1. kjdmk1, well on here anyway
Over to you Matt
He says he will travel for enough work other that its a drive to his place.Looking at some of the work he has done i must say it looks the dog's and he has done detailing on some rather expensive car's to date,
speaking to him he talks the right tune as well which is comforting.I am going to ask him to pop on here and tell you about what he can offer and for him to show us some of his work then its up to you to make your own judgement's
Obviously its all down to cost if your happy with what you see so fire away with as many questions as you want, when he introduces himself.
I am going to place my name down on a provisional list for a machine polish so please post your name if your seriously interested in his services and we will see what happens.
I am sure Matthew will provide you with contact details price's etc if you wish to speak off forum.
1. kjdmk1, well on here anyway
Over to you Matt
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02 January 2007, 08:58 PM
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1. kjdmk1
2. SSS
3. Sam
4. Russ71
5. Blue Dragoon
6. pippyrips (dependant on price etc)
2. SSS
3. Sam
4. Russ71
5. Blue Dragoon
6. pippyrips (dependant on price etc)
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02 January 2007, 09:02 PM
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well guys this is one list i will not be putting my name to i'm sorry 
and thats not for the want of not wanting to
the boss gets very uptight shall we say if i spend more than 4hours on the car cleaning
so can you imaging if i got to be paying someone aswell
not
and thats not for the want of not wanting to the boss gets very uptight shall we say if i spend more than 4hours on the car cleaning
so can you imaging if i got to be paying someone aswell not
02 January 2007, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by valley commando
well guys this is one list i will not be putting my name to i'm sorry and thats not for the want of not wanting to
the boss gets very uptight shall we say if i spend more than 4hours on the car cleaning so can you imaging if i got to be paying someone aswell
not
and thats not for the want of not wanting to the boss gets very uptight shall we say if i spend more than 4hours on the car cleaning
so can you imaging if i got to be paying someone aswell not
02 January 2007, 09:25 PM
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Well, Hello! is the first thing..
I'm matthew as mentioned by Kev at the start of the post. I just thought i'd post up and introduce myself!
If anyone would like me to post up some pics then please let me know. I'm gonna have a look around a see whats happening on scoobynet! for the moment. If anyone needs any help with anything then I'll do my best to give some answers.
Cheers
Matt
I'm matthew as mentioned by Kev at the start of the post. I just thought i'd post up and introduce myself!
If anyone would like me to post up some pics then please let me know. I'm gonna have a look around a see whats happening on scoobynet! for the moment. If anyone needs any help with anything then I'll do my best to give some answers.
Cheers
Matt
02 January 2007, 10:05 PM
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Could be interested dependant upon examples of work / cost etc.
When you say "machine polish", presumably this is a porter cable job, not just a rotary polisher / buffer type affair?
What products do you use? Swissol? Zymol? Megs?
Look forward to seeing some examples of your work Matt.
Dave
When you say "machine polish", presumably this is a porter cable job, not just a rotary polisher / buffer type affair?
What products do you use? Swissol? Zymol? Megs?
Look forward to seeing some examples of your work Matt.
Dave
02 January 2007, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVE-W
Could be interested dependant upon examples of work / cost etc.
When you say "machine polish", presumably this is a porter cable job, not just a rotary polisher / buffer type affair?
What products do you use? Swissol? Zymol? Megs?
Look forward to seeing some examples of your work Matt.
Dave
When you say "machine polish", presumably this is a porter cable job, not just a rotary polisher / buffer type affair?
What products do you use? Swissol? Zymol? Megs?
Look forward to seeing some examples of your work Matt.
Dave
The Porter cable is a Dual action polisher - it rotates eccentrically therefore gives an oscillating action - similar to that of a hand polish but many many times faster. For Serious detailing/defect removal its a great starter as its pretty safe to use and can produce some good results -however it is rather slow and will struggle with more defined swirling and deeper scratches.
The next level tool for defect removal is a rotary polisher - typically a metabo or makita. The rotary can produce dramatic results in the right hands and some spectacularly poor results in the wrong hands. The most common tell tale signs of poor rotary practice are whats know as buffer trails where say a paintshop has compounded a finished paintjob in the wrong manner/technique. This is usually due to lack of experience and wrong pad/speed/product or combination.
I use a makita rotary for my work, and will sometimes drop to the PCfor say the final follow up, or application of a LSP etc, the pc is also used where defects are light and the rotary is not required. I suppose a quick answer is to say I use a combination of either depending on job at hand.
I assume the impression of a rotary that most have is the halfords jobbies etc?
As for product - well again I decide this based on a number of factors - paint type/condition/defects/colour/temperature however for defect removal my current faves are the Menzerna 3.01 range - very effective in most situations.
As for sealant/glaze or LSP well is down to preference. I am not tied to any product and tend to choose what suits and also the type of finish the customer requires.
heres a few recent pics of finished jobs,
New exige s - this had swirls/minor marring straight from delivery
Gallardo
135r
I working on this at the mo - finish tomorrow
Cheers
matt
03 January 2007, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by kjdmk1
I am hoping that once the hard works been done its just a matter of keeping on top of it then.
Once the paint is clean and swirl free reqular polishing with the right products and a good sealant should keep it in order
Once the paint is clean and swirl free reqular polishing with the right products and a good sealant should keep it in order
On the engine detailing - yeah thats no problem also!
HTH
matt
03 January 2007, 06:30 PM
#24
I think what we need from Matt is some info on what services he can offer as some of us require different things, some info on the process of what he does and contact details, so we can get some prices so see where we are heading.
03 January 2007, 07:31 PM
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Hi guys
yes you are right - I will provide some moe 'detailed' information soon - just got back from a long long detail - will post up after Ive had some dinner
Kind regards
Matt
yes you are right - I will provide some moe 'detailed' information soon - just got back from a long long detail - will post up after Ive had some dinner
Kind regards
Matt
03 January 2007, 09:52 PM
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Hi all
Well I'm not too sure how much you all know bout detailing? I'll give a breif outline and try and tell you what I do.
I think its probably best to explain whats involved with detailing.
Firstly, the term detailing hails from America and is basically taking a car and preparing it to the highest of standards paying attention to every 'detail' in every way. A lot of people assume that its the same as valeting, due to some of the processes involved - ie cleaning. However the difference lies within the different stages of each process and ultimately the finished result. We are talking real perfectionist attention to detail.
Most people are happy with a regular wash with sponge, dry with the chamois and a quick wax with a product available in most outlets and thats fine. However Ive never really been satisfied with the results that are acheived through this format, and continued to seek better products, different tools and gain greater understanding of what can and can't be done. There are quite a few of us out there that are obsessive about the cars appearance. I for one was always annoyed when the sun caught my car and that lovely finish was showing up all the swirls and marks and had no idea how they got there. Or when parked under harsh lighting, say at a petrol station forecourt and the defects and swirls and marring stood out.
Anyway. I'm rambling on - back to the nitty gritty, swirling is imparted on paintowrk through a variety of means, usually through poor washing/drying and polishing using abrasive sponges, cloths and terry towels. Scratches, well they can come from anywhere really.
Looking at one aspect of detailing in isolation - paint correction, this is a slow and skilled process and the steps involved in acheived in providing an outstanding finish are many. Following a correct wash and dry of the car bodywork the process can begin. My first step is to asses the surface of the paintwork and prepare it ready for polishing. I will use a detailing clay ( available in many forms and abrasiveness) and lubricant to remove all the embedded particles and elements that are invisible to the naked eye. Following this process the paint surface is left with a glass like touch.
this pic shows the clay after working on a small section of a washed car
Following the clay process the paint is ready for visual inspection under artifical harsh lighting to force light to reflect off the uneven ( swirled) surface.
this pic is a typical, lightly swirled car. Note the poor clarity of reflection of the lamp and the obvious swirling
The next stage is to determine what can be safely removed. The paint thickness is measured in microns with a Paint thickness guage (PTG) there are two types, one for metal substrates and one for composite. I have both, The composite tester is a very expensive and very valuable item and I wouldnt let anyone near my car without one. It can measure the thickness of three layers of coating, ie base, colour, and clear coat(CC)
PTG reading pic
In the pic I have only measured two as I am only concerned with the CC reading, in this case 33 microns or 33 thousandths of a millimeter. This tells me I can safely polish in the measured area without any detriment to the integrity of the CC as re-levelling removes an average of 1-2 microns. Imagine the scenario though, owner buys car and decides to use a detailer whith no PTG and nobody knows if the CC has been polished by a dealer valeter or a paintshop - detailer ploughs into it and polishes through!!
The next stage in polishing is determined by the detailers experience of paint type (lotus paint is Hard as nails) defect severity and availability of his product. The key is to polish with the least abrasive and most gentle combination of polish, pad and tool.
There are 2 effective swirl removing tools - the Porter Cable random orbital polisher which provides and eccentric rotation and a Rotary - purely rotational action. The PC is gentle and pretty safe, however very slow, noisey and in some curcumstances with deep marring, useless on certain paints. the rotary is the most effective and also the hardest to use correctly and safely - this is where the detailers skill is brought into light.
Heres a pic of a 50:50 shot where I have polished half and masked the other for a demonstration, note the polished half is not finished and will improve further.
Following polishing the whole car, the paint is cleansed ready for a sealant to lock to polished finish. There are a variety available and I will use whatever product depending on the last stage protection I will use (LSP) and the type of gloss or apperance that is desired.
Following the sealant I will then apply the LSP say a carnauba wax for example ( lots out there with varying quality and purity)
I detailed a BRAND NEW exige the other day as the owner wasnt happy with the dealer finish. Heres a pic; BRAND NEW I tell thee! can you beleive it?
heres the after - it was rotary polished using makita with green sonus DAS pad, Menzerna IP 3.01 and finished with Menz Final finish prior to seal and LSP
and an outside shot
Another example would be a light swirling like the car I finished today
And heres a few finished shots
Heres a before of an elise 135 defect
And after
As mentioned the above is centred aroung the core or detailing - Paint correction.
To complete a car there are endless things to address, wheels/tyres/engine/under arches/calipers etc etc - they all involve intesive cleaning and in most cases re-dressing to preserve the factory finish apperance. So for an engine detail it would consist of cleaning all accessible/visible areas of the bay and then dressing with a product to improve the finish of the plastics etc.
On my own car - Ive gradually cleaned right through, removing wheels cleaning front and back and then sealing and waxing both sides, detailing the arches etc. You really can go very far with it. In most cases the work i do for customers revolves aroung paint correction and preparing the alloys/tyres/glass etc.
So prices you ask, well each car is different and can take different times. I am in the process of getting my website togehter where i will highlight packages and guide prices. However if anyone is interested then PM me and i can contact you, discuss the requirements and give a price ( at this stage my rates are not as expensive as you would think!) bear in mind a front clam respray on an elise at some places can cost 500 and I can detail a full car for well less than half of that!! I just can't band figures around and either put people off or under estimate either. my aim above all else is to enjoy my work and make owners happy with what i can do for them. I also want to pay the bill and earn a living too heh heh
Hope this helps every one, sorry for 'writing the book'
Matt
Well I'm not too sure how much you all know bout detailing? I'll give a breif outline and try and tell you what I do.
I think its probably best to explain whats involved with detailing.
Firstly, the term detailing hails from America and is basically taking a car and preparing it to the highest of standards paying attention to every 'detail' in every way. A lot of people assume that its the same as valeting, due to some of the processes involved - ie cleaning. However the difference lies within the different stages of each process and ultimately the finished result. We are talking real perfectionist attention to detail.
Most people are happy with a regular wash with sponge, dry with the chamois and a quick wax with a product available in most outlets and thats fine. However Ive never really been satisfied with the results that are acheived through this format, and continued to seek better products, different tools and gain greater understanding of what can and can't be done. There are quite a few of us out there that are obsessive about the cars appearance. I for one was always annoyed when the sun caught my car and that lovely finish was showing up all the swirls and marks and had no idea how they got there. Or when parked under harsh lighting, say at a petrol station forecourt and the defects and swirls and marring stood out.
Anyway. I'm rambling on - back to the nitty gritty, swirling is imparted on paintowrk through a variety of means, usually through poor washing/drying and polishing using abrasive sponges, cloths and terry towels. Scratches, well they can come from anywhere really.
Looking at one aspect of detailing in isolation - paint correction, this is a slow and skilled process and the steps involved in acheived in providing an outstanding finish are many. Following a correct wash and dry of the car bodywork the process can begin. My first step is to asses the surface of the paintwork and prepare it ready for polishing. I will use a detailing clay ( available in many forms and abrasiveness) and lubricant to remove all the embedded particles and elements that are invisible to the naked eye. Following this process the paint surface is left with a glass like touch.
this pic shows the clay after working on a small section of a washed car
Following the clay process the paint is ready for visual inspection under artifical harsh lighting to force light to reflect off the uneven ( swirled) surface.
this pic is a typical, lightly swirled car. Note the poor clarity of reflection of the lamp and the obvious swirling
The next stage is to determine what can be safely removed. The paint thickness is measured in microns with a Paint thickness guage (PTG) there are two types, one for metal substrates and one for composite. I have both, The composite tester is a very expensive and very valuable item and I wouldnt let anyone near my car without one. It can measure the thickness of three layers of coating, ie base, colour, and clear coat(CC)
PTG reading pic
In the pic I have only measured two as I am only concerned with the CC reading, in this case 33 microns or 33 thousandths of a millimeter. This tells me I can safely polish in the measured area without any detriment to the integrity of the CC as re-levelling removes an average of 1-2 microns. Imagine the scenario though, owner buys car and decides to use a detailer whith no PTG and nobody knows if the CC has been polished by a dealer valeter or a paintshop - detailer ploughs into it and polishes through!!
The next stage in polishing is determined by the detailers experience of paint type (lotus paint is Hard as nails) defect severity and availability of his product. The key is to polish with the least abrasive and most gentle combination of polish, pad and tool.
There are 2 effective swirl removing tools - the Porter Cable random orbital polisher which provides and eccentric rotation and a Rotary - purely rotational action. The PC is gentle and pretty safe, however very slow, noisey and in some curcumstances with deep marring, useless on certain paints. the rotary is the most effective and also the hardest to use correctly and safely - this is where the detailers skill is brought into light.
Heres a pic of a 50:50 shot where I have polished half and masked the other for a demonstration, note the polished half is not finished and will improve further.
Following polishing the whole car, the paint is cleansed ready for a sealant to lock to polished finish. There are a variety available and I will use whatever product depending on the last stage protection I will use (LSP) and the type of gloss or apperance that is desired.
Following the sealant I will then apply the LSP say a carnauba wax for example ( lots out there with varying quality and purity)
I detailed a BRAND NEW exige the other day as the owner wasnt happy with the dealer finish. Heres a pic; BRAND NEW I tell thee! can you beleive it?
heres the after - it was rotary polished using makita with green sonus DAS pad, Menzerna IP 3.01 and finished with Menz Final finish prior to seal and LSP
and an outside shot
Another example would be a light swirling like the car I finished today
And heres a few finished shots
Heres a before of an elise 135 defect
And after
As mentioned the above is centred aroung the core or detailing - Paint correction.
To complete a car there are endless things to address, wheels/tyres/engine/under arches/calipers etc etc - they all involve intesive cleaning and in most cases re-dressing to preserve the factory finish apperance. So for an engine detail it would consist of cleaning all accessible/visible areas of the bay and then dressing with a product to improve the finish of the plastics etc.
On my own car - Ive gradually cleaned right through, removing wheels cleaning front and back and then sealing and waxing both sides, detailing the arches etc. You really can go very far with it. In most cases the work i do for customers revolves aroung paint correction and preparing the alloys/tyres/glass etc.
So prices you ask, well each car is different and can take different times. I am in the process of getting my website togehter where i will highlight packages and guide prices. However if anyone is interested then PM me and i can contact you, discuss the requirements and give a price ( at this stage my rates are not as expensive as you would think!) bear in mind a front clam respray on an elise at some places can cost 500 and I can detail a full car for well less than half of that!! I just can't band figures around and either put people off or under estimate either. my aim above all else is to enjoy my work and make owners happy with what i can do for them. I also want to pay the bill and earn a living too heh heh
Hope this helps every one, sorry for 'writing the book'
Matt
03 January 2007, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Detail Matt
Hi all
Well I'm not too sure how much you all know bout detailing? I'll give a breif outline and try and tell you what I do.
I think its probably best to explain whats involved with detailing.
Firstly, the term detailing hails from America and is basically taking a car and preparing it to the highest of standards paying attention to every 'detail' in every way. A lot of people assume that its the same as valeting, due to some of the processes involved - ie cleaning. However the difference lies within the different stages of each process and ultimately the finished result. We are talking real perfectionist attention to detail.
Most people are happy with a regular wash with sponge, dry with the chamois and a quick wax with a product available in most outlets and thats fine. However Ive never really been satisfied with the results that are acheived through this format, and continued to seek better products, different tools and gain greater understanding of what can and can't be done. There are quite a few of us out there that are obsessive about the cars appearance. I for one was always annoyed when the sun caught my car and that lovely finish was showing up all the swirls and marks and had no idea how they got there. Or when parked under harsh lighting, say at a petrol station forecourt and the defects and swirls and marring stood out.
Anyway. I'm rambling on - back to the nitty gritty, swirling is imparted on paintowrk through a variety of means, usually through poor washing/drying and polishing using abrasive sponges, cloths and terry towels. Scratches, well they can come from anywhere really.
Looking at one aspect of detailing in isolation - paint correction, this is a slow and skilled process and the steps involved in acheived in providing an outstanding finish are many. Following a correct wash and dry of the car bodywork the process can begin. My first step is to asses the surface of the paintwork and prepare it ready for polishing. I will use a detailing clay ( available in many forms and abrasiveness) and lubricant to remove all the embedded particles and elements that are invisible to the naked eye. Following this process the paint surface is left with a glass like touch.
this pic shows the clay after working on a small section of a washed car
Following the clay process the paint is ready for visual inspection under artifical harsh lighting to force light to reflect off the uneven ( swirled) surface.
this pic is a typical, lightly swirled car. Note the poor clarity of reflection of the lamp and the obvious swirling
The next stage is to determine what can be safely removed. The paint thickness is measured in microns with a Paint thickness guage (PTG) there are two types, one for metal substrates and one for composite. I have both, The composite tester is a very expensive and very valuable item and I wouldnt let anyone near my car without one. It can measure the thickness of three layers of coating, ie base, colour, and clear coat(CC)
PTG reading pic
In the pic I have only measured two as I am only concerned with the CC reading, in this case 33 microns or 33 thousandths of a millimeter. This tells me I can safely polish in the measured area without any detriment to the integrity of the CC as re-levelling removes an average of 1-2 microns. Imagine the scenario though, owner buys car and decides to use a detailer whith no PTG and nobody knows if the CC has been polished by a dealer valeter or a paintshop - detailer ploughs into it and polishes through!!
The next stage in polishing is determined by the detailers experience of paint type (lotus paint is Hard as nails) defect severity and availability of his product. The key is to polish with the least abrasive and most gentle combination of polish, pad and tool.
There are 2 effective swirl removing tools - the Porter Cable random orbital polisher which provides and eccentric rotation and a Rotary - purely rotational action. The PC is gentle and pretty safe, however very slow, noisey and in some curcumstances with deep marring, useless on certain paints. the rotary is the most effective and also the hardest to use correctly and safely - this is where the detailers skill is brought into light.
Heres a pic of a 50:50 shot where I have polished half and masked the other for a demonstration, note the polished half is not finished and will improve further.
Following polishing the whole car, the paint is cleansed ready for a sealant to lock to polished finish. There are a variety available and I will use whatever product depending on the last stage protection I will use (LSP) and the type of gloss or apperance that is desired.
Following the sealant I will then apply the LSP say a carnauba wax for example ( lots out there with varying quality and purity)
I detailed a BRAND NEW exige the other day as the owner wasnt happy with the dealer finish. Heres a pic; BRAND NEW I tell thee! can you beleive it?
heres the after - it was rotary polished using makita with green sonus DAS pad, Menzerna IP 3.01 and finished with Menz Final finish prior to seal and LSP
and an outside shot
Another example would be a light swirling like the car I finished today
And heres a few finished shots
Heres a before of an elise 135 defect
And after
As mentioned the above is centred aroung the core or detailing - Paint correction.
To complete a car there are endless things to address, wheels/tyres/engine/under arches/calipers etc etc - they all involve intesive cleaning and in most cases re-dressing to preserve the factory finish apperance. So for an engine detail it would consist of cleaning all accessible/visible areas of the bay and then dressing with a product to improve the finish of the plastics etc.
On my own car - Ive gradually cleaned right through, removing wheels cleaning front and back and then sealing and waxing both sides, detailing the arches etc. You really can go very far with it. In most cases the work i do for customers revolves aroung paint correction and preparing the alloys/tyres/glass etc.
So prices you ask, well each car is different and can take different times. I am in the process of getting my website togehter where i will highlight packages and guide prices. However if anyone is interested then PM me and i can contact you, discuss the requirements and give a price ( at this stage my rates are not as expensive as you would think!) bear in mind a front clam respray on an elise at some places can cost 500 and I can detail a full car for well less than half of that!! I just can't band figures around and either put people off or under estimate either. my aim above all else is to enjoy my work and make owners happy with what i can do for them. I also want to pay the bill and earn a living too heh heh
Hope this helps every one, sorry for 'writing the book'
Matt
Well I'm not too sure how much you all know bout detailing? I'll give a breif outline and try and tell you what I do.
I think its probably best to explain whats involved with detailing.
Firstly, the term detailing hails from America and is basically taking a car and preparing it to the highest of standards paying attention to every 'detail' in every way. A lot of people assume that its the same as valeting, due to some of the processes involved - ie cleaning. However the difference lies within the different stages of each process and ultimately the finished result. We are talking real perfectionist attention to detail.
Most people are happy with a regular wash with sponge, dry with the chamois and a quick wax with a product available in most outlets and thats fine. However Ive never really been satisfied with the results that are acheived through this format, and continued to seek better products, different tools and gain greater understanding of what can and can't be done. There are quite a few of us out there that are obsessive about the cars appearance. I for one was always annoyed when the sun caught my car and that lovely finish was showing up all the swirls and marks and had no idea how they got there. Or when parked under harsh lighting, say at a petrol station forecourt and the defects and swirls and marring stood out.
Anyway. I'm rambling on - back to the nitty gritty, swirling is imparted on paintowrk through a variety of means, usually through poor washing/drying and polishing using abrasive sponges, cloths and terry towels. Scratches, well they can come from anywhere really.
Looking at one aspect of detailing in isolation - paint correction, this is a slow and skilled process and the steps involved in acheived in providing an outstanding finish are many. Following a correct wash and dry of the car bodywork the process can begin. My first step is to asses the surface of the paintwork and prepare it ready for polishing. I will use a detailing clay ( available in many forms and abrasiveness) and lubricant to remove all the embedded particles and elements that are invisible to the naked eye. Following this process the paint surface is left with a glass like touch.
this pic shows the clay after working on a small section of a washed car
Following the clay process the paint is ready for visual inspection under artifical harsh lighting to force light to reflect off the uneven ( swirled) surface.
this pic is a typical, lightly swirled car. Note the poor clarity of reflection of the lamp and the obvious swirling
The next stage is to determine what can be safely removed. The paint thickness is measured in microns with a Paint thickness guage (PTG) there are two types, one for metal substrates and one for composite. I have both, The composite tester is a very expensive and very valuable item and I wouldnt let anyone near my car without one. It can measure the thickness of three layers of coating, ie base, colour, and clear coat(CC)
PTG reading pic
In the pic I have only measured two as I am only concerned with the CC reading, in this case 33 microns or 33 thousandths of a millimeter. This tells me I can safely polish in the measured area without any detriment to the integrity of the CC as re-levelling removes an average of 1-2 microns. Imagine the scenario though, owner buys car and decides to use a detailer whith no PTG and nobody knows if the CC has been polished by a dealer valeter or a paintshop - detailer ploughs into it and polishes through!!
The next stage in polishing is determined by the detailers experience of paint type (lotus paint is Hard as nails) defect severity and availability of his product. The key is to polish with the least abrasive and most gentle combination of polish, pad and tool.
There are 2 effective swirl removing tools - the Porter Cable random orbital polisher which provides and eccentric rotation and a Rotary - purely rotational action. The PC is gentle and pretty safe, however very slow, noisey and in some curcumstances with deep marring, useless on certain paints. the rotary is the most effective and also the hardest to use correctly and safely - this is where the detailers skill is brought into light.
Heres a pic of a 50:50 shot where I have polished half and masked the other for a demonstration, note the polished half is not finished and will improve further.
Following polishing the whole car, the paint is cleansed ready for a sealant to lock to polished finish. There are a variety available and I will use whatever product depending on the last stage protection I will use (LSP) and the type of gloss or apperance that is desired.
Following the sealant I will then apply the LSP say a carnauba wax for example ( lots out there with varying quality and purity)
I detailed a BRAND NEW exige the other day as the owner wasnt happy with the dealer finish. Heres a pic; BRAND NEW I tell thee! can you beleive it?
heres the after - it was rotary polished using makita with green sonus DAS pad, Menzerna IP 3.01 and finished with Menz Final finish prior to seal and LSP
and an outside shot
Another example would be a light swirling like the car I finished today
And heres a few finished shots
Heres a before of an elise 135 defect
And after
As mentioned the above is centred aroung the core or detailing - Paint correction.
To complete a car there are endless things to address, wheels/tyres/engine/under arches/calipers etc etc - they all involve intesive cleaning and in most cases re-dressing to preserve the factory finish apperance. So for an engine detail it would consist of cleaning all accessible/visible areas of the bay and then dressing with a product to improve the finish of the plastics etc.
On my own car - Ive gradually cleaned right through, removing wheels cleaning front and back and then sealing and waxing both sides, detailing the arches etc. You really can go very far with it. In most cases the work i do for customers revolves aroung paint correction and preparing the alloys/tyres/glass etc.
So prices you ask, well each car is different and can take different times. I am in the process of getting my website togehter where i will highlight packages and guide prices. However if anyone is interested then PM me and i can contact you, discuss the requirements and give a price ( at this stage my rates are not as expensive as you would think!) bear in mind a front clam respray on an elise at some places can cost 500 and I can detail a full car for well less than half of that!! I just can't band figures around and either put people off or under estimate either. my aim above all else is to enjoy my work and make owners happy with what i can do for them. I also want to pay the bill and earn a living too heh heh
Hope this helps every one, sorry for 'writing the book'
Matt
just bought new sti approx 300 miles on clock dealer finish is ok
what it going to cost to due this one in in black so a nightmare to keep clean
please let me know
03 January 2007, 10:21 PM
#30
There cannot be anything worse than buying a brand new car that is covered in swirls... and not a cheap one either 
I think I would have gone straight around the dealers and rubbed there nose in it
Thanks for the comprehensive explaination Matt
Simon
I think I would have gone straight around the dealers and rubbed there nose in it Thanks for the comprehensive explaination Matt
Simon