Big Brakes needed for Classic
#4
If I needed new discs for my APs 7040 which I belive was purchased from you.
Are they 330 discs or 335 discs and would I need to get replacement discs from yourselfs as not sure if the bell is also made by you or just a generic ones etc?
If you could shed some light, so I know when it comes to time when they need replacing.
Thanks
Last edited by bustaMOVEs; 31 March 2016 at 08:57 PM.
#5
THE braking specialist
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From: www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk
We make a 330mm and 335mm kit using those calipers so could be either , we generally supply the 330mm kits now as we did have some 17" wheels that didn't quite clear the outer diameter of the caliper with the 335mm kits.
We can supply you whatever discs you have for £295 a pair including a set of nuts and bolts , no one else can supply a disc to fit this set up , AP 330mm discs have a smaller pad area width wise compared to ours , there are two pad widths available in this pad shape for the 7040 and the new 9040 calipers , and this kit we use the widest pad available , so our bells have a smaller outer diameter to fit.
Cheers Ian
We can supply you whatever discs you have for £295 a pair including a set of nuts and bolts , no one else can supply a disc to fit this set up , AP 330mm discs have a smaller pad area width wise compared to ours , there are two pad widths available in this pad shape for the 7040 and the new 9040 calipers , and this kit we use the widest pad available , so our bells have a smaller outer diameter to fit.
Cheers Ian
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#9
THE braking specialist
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From: www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk
They are also a lighter , with the discs having lightweight alloy bells , the kit overall will be lighter , so less unsprung weight , so your suspension doesn't have to work so hard.
2 piece discs also has advantages regarding heat dissipation , alloy will dissipate heat quicker than steel / iron , so the disc will run cooler , and not transfer as much heat into the wheel bearings.
The STi brakes are a good setup , but getting old now , so calipers have issues that usually need looking at , threads are a well documented problem with them , either the bolts holding them onto the hubs snap , or rip the threads out while removing them , and bleed nipple seize and snap , or pull the threads out , as time goes on we are having to repair more and more threads in the calipers we get in to recondition.
Corrosion is also being an issue now , the area's you need to look at is under the pad plates , this area corrodes quite a bit , which lifts the plates away from the calipers and jams the pads , which can then overheat a disc and can warp it , the mounting lugs can also corrode , in extreme cases , once bead blasted back to good alloy , there isn't enough material left to safely fit the caliper back on the car , so needs welding to build it back up , then machine it back.
If like most drivers you want the brakes to look good behind your wheels , most of the calipers I see are chipped and marked , and look well used , so if you factor in the cost of the calipers to buy , you see prices from £400 upwards for second hand STi calipers discs and pads , usually you are getting standard discs and pads , so then you need to spend out to get them working well , then if you want the calipers looking good , calipers cost around £100 each for reconditioning , then extra if threads need repairing , then extra if calipers need welding ect , then they don't fit behind a lot of 17" wheels , especially on the classics , and standard 2001 onwards WRX wheels , when you look at the bigger picture , the brand new kit seems a much better option.
Cheers Ian
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