I have well and truly cabbaged my pads, discs and possibly one front and one rear caliper so I need new brakes. The whole lot unfortunately no brass to get really good'uns so.........

Does anyone have these or know owt about them?

http://www.compbrake.co.uk/

It looks like a good deal for £650 but not if they are crap.

Cheers

 

Daz. Decent reply from a guy who bought the set here

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...ight=compbrake

Do a quick search on compbrake and you may get some more..

 

Hmmm..................

I've had a look but I'm not convinced yet I'll wait and see.

I might have no choice tho cos the car is undrivable at the minute ......................weeeellllllllll you could drive it ....................but it's anybody's guess where you'd end up.

I've got some video of my brake discs glowing orange when I got home from work this morning but I don't know how to get it on here

 

www.putfile.com

 

Daz, have you had anything checked out yet You were complaining of a vibration and now you say the brakes were red hot after I guess a relatively short, low speed journey. I have to wonder about the wheel bearing. If it's shot, but hasn't collapsed yet it would result in the bearing overheating. This heat will transfer through the hub and disk and into the braking system. Just a thought

 

I think you'll find those words aren't in Daz's vocabulary

 

Not normally, but I figured with his reluctance to drive on the recent Dales run that he may be taking it steady until he'd sorted his troubles.

 

My front brakes are shot

As is the Turbo uppie

Classic pre face lift brakes are just well shat, I am curently looking at options

been advised by a friend to go standard 4 pot, green stuff, and bigger disc conversion kit

 

Agree with the 4 pots Mick, but I'd stay clear of the Greens. EBC don't recommend them for Scoobs, stating that Red Ceramics are the minimum. Personally I think EBC Reds are $h!te, as I wore a set out in under 6k miles. The OE crap did almost twice that with me from half worn when I bought the car as well as a trackday. They bit OK, but are soft as butter. Go with Ferodo DS2000 or DS2500 (less cold feel but better high temp) or Mintex 1144 or 1155 (similar to DS2500), or go the whole hog and get Pagid Black RS4.2.1. The Pagids may be 50% dearer, but all the reports I've read say that they usually last up to 50% longer with excellent stopping cold or hot. If you go for bigger discs consider grooved, but DO NOT get drilled Also worth doing the lines and upgrading the fluid whilst you're at it

 

Ahh how well you know me but dave is right I have been taking it steady.

It is defo the brake caliper problem - mass clouds of smoke and that distinctive smell

 

Daz, I discussed this with my Dad (40 years in overalls) last night and he agrees that it would probably be bearings. Obviously without seeing the car it cannot be definately diagnosed, but given that it started as a vibration, and progressed to massive overheating of the hub and disc (from your description) it points to bearings. The reason the brakes cooked are two-fold if it is indeed the bearings. The heat from the disintegrating bearing disperses through the hub and into the disc and calipers, as well as the wheel. Also, the disc will not be rotating true on the hub as the hub obviously rotates on a bearing which is collapsing, and will constantly be scuffing the pads leading to more overheating, and as you try to push the pad to the disc with the pedal, the disc will be pushing it back as it wobbles on its rotation. All the heat from these factors can also boil the brake fluid leading to oxygenation which will give a spongey pedal, and to the rubber lines overheating and swelling, again reducing brake pedal feel.

I may well be wrong, but as an internet diagnosis without seeing the car it's the best I can do. Hope you get it fixed

 

Cheers for the info mate I'll mention it when I get it checked out.



Now where did I put my big fat wallet...................

Can't seem to find it

 

If it is bearings then they shouldn't be expensive. Most cars are usually IRO £18 a set, so even allowing for Subaru tax they shouldn't break the bank. They can be done DIY if you have the know-how, the only difficult bit being getting them out of/into the hub (tight fit) straight. Should be 2 hours or less to any decent mechanic.

Just checked on SAP Motor Parts and they should be £50.91 plus the dreaded.

HTH

 

These units are good, very good.
Have had the 15" ( thats 278mm in new money)kit on my non abs, everyday use ra for a long while with zero probs.
I have driven hard and then harder still, all over europe and the uk, on all types of surface.
Even drove to sweden twice to watch the wrc.
Using the HPS pads (which i have yet to need to replace)the resistance to fade is fantastic, even with this size disc. Would be even better with the larger 16(295mm), and 17"(330) rotor options.
As for dust seals, having used the car for a lot of competitive marshalling on many gravel events throughout the years, including setup and recce days on 2 wrgb events, on stages like rheola, resolven and halfway, all muddy wet and dusty dry, i have had no problems with the pistons.

Is this a plug? well.... maybe.
Is it a fair all round,all surface road test from a driver that uses them for track,stage, road, impressed and extremley happy with his choice of anti-scenery/vehicular interaction device....ABSOLUTLEY!!!

 

Hi Taff,

What about the pad rattle due to lack of anti-rattle clips? Mine were alarmingly loud, and the pad backing had started to dig grooves in the alloy of the caliper.

I ended up quietening mine, mostly but not completely, by using self-adhesive pads designed for brake anti-rattle. They're thin hard rubber, intended to cover the back of the pads. According to one internet comment they can degrade brake feel slightly (as it introduces a compressible element between pad and piston), but I can't confirm that. Instead of using them on back of pads, I put small rectangles on the caliper surfaces where the pad sits. This is just enough to take up most of the play, and gives a cushioned surface for the pad to rattle against.

I also have a pair of 2lb/in residual pressure valves to try, which constantly hold the pads gently against the disk, but haven't fitted them yet. Not 100% sure these would be good for all-round road use.

Mine is the same 15/16" kit, with the caliper that has the single pad-retaining pin.

Andy

 

Doh, just had a look at the other thread, and see that you used a thicker sleeve on the pad-retaining bolt to stop the rattle.

I guess now that they're selling these kits like hot cakes, for mostly road use, they'll be under a lot of pressure to sort the f*!%ing rattle problem. So maybe we'll get a retro-fit proper solution.

Andy