Brake specialist locally?
#1
Brake specialist locally?
Anyone know a place locally that's good for Brakes?
I'm not happy with mine at all at the moment
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=515799
I'd preferably like somewhere that could diagnose what's wrong with them as opposed to just flogging me more pads / discs and hoping they sort it.
I'm not happy with mine at all at the moment
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=515799
I'd preferably like somewhere that could diagnose what's wrong with them as opposed to just flogging me more pads / discs and hoping they sort it.
#2
I can pass you on to a guy that does all my work.. Independant guy who used to work for Audi but now works for Land Rover... He lives in Cas and does my stuff off his drive. He's done all my services and winter/summer/pre & post track checks (apart from the warranty required ones) and replaced a few pads and disks....
Top bloke who's earns his extra crust from doing the work rather than selling. If you're happy with this type of service. i.e. not main dealer or VAT registered garage then I'll PM his number...
Top bloke who's earns his extra crust from doing the work rather than selling. If you're happy with this type of service. i.e. not main dealer or VAT registered garage then I'll PM his number...
#3
Originally Posted by Alan C
I can pass you on to a guy that does all my work.. Independant guy who used to work for Audi but now works for Land Rover... He lives in Cas and does my stuff off his drive. He's done all my services and winter/summer/pre & post track checks (apart from the warranty required ones) and replaced a few pads and disks....
Top bloke who's earns his extra crust from doing the work rather than selling. If you're happy with this type of service. i.e. not main dealer or VAT registered garage then I'll PM his number...
Top bloke who's earns his extra crust from doing the work rather than selling. If you're happy with this type of service. i.e. not main dealer or VAT registered garage then I'll PM his number...
#4
I can take a look if you like m8y (20 years as a mechanic), has it got gradually worse or did it come on suddenly? A spongy pedal is usually a sign of air trapped in the system or a seized caliper slide or piston. My manager changed his fluid and fitted Green Stuff front pads recently for a similar complaint, says it drives like a different car now...
Try keeping the brake pedal pressed down overnight, this can allow trapped air to rise into the resevoir (Watch for the brake lights being on all the time though).
Will talk more on thursday if you are going...Dan
Try keeping the brake pedal pressed down overnight, this can allow trapped air to rise into the resevoir (Watch for the brake lights being on all the time though).
Will talk more on thursday if you are going...Dan
#6
Originally Posted by D-an-W
I can take a look if you like m8y (20 years as a mechanic), has it got gradually worse or did it come on suddenly? A spongy pedal is usually a sign of air trapped in the system or a seized caliper slide or piston. My manager changed his fluid and fitted Green Stuff front pads recently for a similar complaint, says it drives like a different car now...
Try keeping the brake pedal pressed down overnight, this can allow trapped air to rise into the resevoir (Watch for the brake lights being on all the time though).
Will talk more on thursday if you are going...Dan
Try keeping the brake pedal pressed down overnight, this can allow trapped air to rise into the resevoir (Watch for the brake lights being on all the time though).
Will talk more on thursday if you are going...Dan
Trending Topics
#8
Scooby Regular
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,823
Likes: 0
From: Wset Yroksrhie posts: 82,555 - total _____ Avg monthly
Originally Posted by scg
Don't think I'm going to make it tonight unfortunately. You going Sunday though? Fluid was changed on Saturday at Scoobyclinic and had braided hoses fitted, brakes were bad when I went in, now slightly worse!
After I did the track day I flushed the breaking system completely with new fluid as the fluid had boiled
boiled fluid is usless, and simply does not get better, this would give you spongy pedal and lack of feeling,
Personally I would invest in some redstuff pads and full fluid flush, am still a litle astonished after braided hoses and a bleed it felt worse
#9
The DS2500 are famous for being lousy when cold, which is why the 'Clinic are reluctant to fit them unless you really want them. The DS2000 may not be quite as good in extreme situations like track or very spirited B-roads, but at least they work when you need them. Would hate to have to rely on the 2500's in a sudden braking incident after many m-way miles
My experience of EBC Reds isn't favourable either. They perform well enough, but wear very quickly. I only got 6k out of a set My DS2000's lasted 15k and 2 trackdays, and the half worn OE's that were in when I got it did 8k and one trackday.
Did you uprate the fluid along with the hoses ? I changed to Ferodo DOT5.1 when I did mine.
My experience of EBC Reds isn't favourable either. They perform well enough, but wear very quickly. I only got 6k out of a set My DS2000's lasted 15k and 2 trackdays, and the half worn OE's that were in when I got it did 8k and one trackday.
Did you uprate the fluid along with the hoses ? I changed to Ferodo DOT5.1 when I did mine.
#10
Also, if you need any work doing (reasonably) locally, just had my cambelt service done at HDC Subaru in Hebdon Bridge and was suitably impressed with their knowlege, service, prices and hospitality (2 cups of tea without asking courtesy car (old Leggy estate) to nip into Hebdon Bridge for brekkie).
#11
Originally Posted by corradoboy
Did you uprate the fluid along with the hoses ? I changed to Ferodo DOT5.1 when I did mine.
#12
You could have clamped off each hose in turn to see if that improved the pedal, but you have braided hoses now...
I could check the efficiencys on the MOT rollers too but I work in Huddersfield, maybe you know a local place that would do it for you?
I could check the efficiencys on the MOT rollers too but I work in Huddersfield, maybe you know a local place that would do it for you?
Last edited by D-an-W; 18 May 2006 at 06:40 PM.
#13
Originally Posted by D-an-W
You could have clamped off each hose in turn to see if that improved the pedal, but you have braided hoses now...
I could check the efficiencys on the MOT rollers too but I work in Huddersfield, maybe you know a local place that would do it for you?
I could check the efficiencys on the MOT rollers too but I work in Huddersfield, maybe you know a local place that would do it for you?
#14
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,025
Likes: 0
From: If you rev it, they will come!
What do you need brakes for anyway, as Ali says Sticky doesn't use them and neither does Dave, don't see what the problem is
Maybe you should swap yours with mine, I've had absolutely no trouble with mine the last couple of weeks, other than some rust on the discs, I wonder if driving it would help with the rust problem
Maybe you should swap yours with mine, I've had absolutely no trouble with mine the last couple of weeks, other than some rust on the discs, I wonder if driving it would help with the rust problem
#16
Not sure how far you wanna go money wise but if your after a complete new system have a look at these.....
http://www.compbrake.co.uk/Impreza%2017.htm
I've got no idea how good they are or how well they perform but they look the part for little over £600 and they are probably an improvement on any standard stuff.
Other than that I'd get the whole system bled through again and change discs and pads all round.
If you jam on a lot the discs may have suffered from metal fatigue which I'm told reduces the friction co-efficient. This has the same effect as when you get glazed pads so you have to change them.
http://www.compbrake.co.uk/Impreza%2017.htm
I've got no idea how good they are or how well they perform but they look the part for little over £600 and they are probably an improvement on any standard stuff.
Other than that I'd get the whole system bled through again and change discs and pads all round.
If you jam on a lot the discs may have suffered from metal fatigue which I'm told reduces the friction co-efficient. This has the same effect as when you get glazed pads so you have to change them.
#17
Originally Posted by killa
I think you should let JB take it for a test drive am sure that will take your mind off the brakes to something else..
................................
now then about this brake problem its simple i never need new brakes as i follow these easy steps;
step one / when approaching a round-a-bout simply choose a gear in your mind then slam it in the the one thats lower ie if you need 3rd then choose 2nd this brings the car to a slower speed using engine braking with no pad wear and no visible side-effects
also the brake bulbs last far longer this way so its win win to me
now if you have a warranty then there's method in my madness because brake pads are £200 and a gear box is.............................free
DISCLAIMER this post STICKY is not a serious one and that's not why my gear box went boom
dis-disclaimer my box went because i dumped 6000rpm on it a few times which im sure you should set off like this in tesco's
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
12
18 November 2015 07:03 AM