Take one T-20, one digital SLR, a tripod, and an empty top car park...






Now add some flare

 

Flares do look good
suits Al as he is one of those 60's chaps..

did not make it due to a small rad leak and a few other things things that came up. but now sorted

 

Cool pics

 

Two things things?

Had a ride up your way with JB toay looking for suitable photo locations.

Looks like the Leeds ground (Elland Road, though Headingly may be an option?) or Salts Mill in Saltaire / Shipley could be good, or there's the Woolpack in Esholt, or the airport?

Few to go at. If you're out at Squires on Tuesday we could look at going somewhere from there.

 

Brilliant stuff again mate.. as always..

Looking forward to seeing how the others came out..

Do you think using the light pole to give a split car would be an idea? Two different coloured bulbs..giving two different colours.. different graphics.. and a 'cut & shut'..

 

got an idea for the airport somehow get the scoob infront of the bridge that the planes land on when 1's landing

 

Interesting, just one word concerns me slightly...

SOMEHOW?!?!?!

 

Sticky (or anyone). I've got a Noddy camera question. If I'm taking pictures in a club (as in 'night' not 'working mens') should I have slow or fast shutter speed? Just looking back at some images from the weekend and they're largely blurred. Just got a new Optio s6 and the auto settings keep giving me blurred crap, had an Optio s for years and never caused me one problem - so much for an upgrade

JB - next time you're at Elvington slip one of the old boys a fiver and park your baby here at the air museum. Now that would look good, better than a namby pamby civilian plane

 

What camera you using Si?

For stuff like nightclubs you want to be using the 'slow flash' or 'sync-flash' setting.

Basically opens the shutter, fires the flash, but then leaves the shutter open a little while.

This lets the flash 'freeze' any moving objects, but then allows more of the ambient light in.

Images will still be blurred, but will have a nice clean look too.

Sounds more complicated than it is.

You should end up with something like this...

 

Dunno why Anthea Turner would be holding John Craven's hand on a train with Jo Brand, but it's the first pic I found

 

It's a pentax Optio 6s

My flash options are:

- Normal
- Auto & Red Eye
- Flash on & Red Eye
- Soft

Shutter speeds:

64
100
200
400

Don't want to produce any fancy effects of light just taking pictures of people. So, slowest shutter speed?

 

Yup.

Slow shutter speed with the flash on.

If the camera has an ISO setting then this wants to be on the highest available, should be around 400, 800 or possibly 1600. Pictures will come out grainy, but it simulates a faster film, so you're effectively getting more light onto the sensor.

The idea wasn't to get fancy effects, but to get enough light into the camera to give you some depth / background to the pics.

 

Simon, on the main settings there should be a "Candlelight" mode (icon looks like 3 red candles). Increases the sensitivity to 800

 

I'm a bit confused

Is ISO the same as sensitivty?

So I've got sensitivity of 64, 100, 200, 400 and the Candlelight option of 800.

So is 64 not the slowest shutter speed and hence what I need?

God knows why the auto settings don't just take care of it like in the good old days.

 

ISO on digital cameras is an adjustment which effectively reduces the number of pixels in use so less light is required to take an image where there is less light available, and thus the picture gets grainier due to the lack of pixels. It's the same with film, the emulsion of sensitive films has a coarser grain structure requiring less exposure and allowing for faster exposure times in lower light levels. I used to shoot daylight scenic stuff on ISO25, but sometimes used ISO1600 for fast moving sports shots or night work. Shutter speeds are simply how long the shutter opens for to allow the available light in.

 

Those figures do look like ISO settings, though 64 is an odd one.

Compact digitals don't usually have variable shutter speed settings, they tend to be mainly automatic, setting the shutter in respect of the other relevant settings.

I'll have a quick look and see if I can d/l a manual or something...

 

Right. Got the manual, though it doesn't seem too helpful.

Looks like the best setting would be the candle jobbie (which looks like it'll give an ISO equiv of 800) then set the exposure compensation up a couple of stops. If the candle setting is a factory-set jobbie then this might not be possible.

As usual with these things, the best way to find anything out is to experiment and see which settings give the best results. The beauty of digital is that you can see the results without having to wait for Boots to get your prints done

 

Cheers for all the advice Sticky / Dave.

Like you Sticky I had to get the manual off t'internet as Amazon sent me one in Japenese and Chinese

Will have to experiment again next time I'm out clubbing although not always easy to gauge the quality at the time on the LCD only when I stuck them on the PC realised how rubbish some of them were....although others were perfect. It's all Clare's fault for dropping my old Optio S taking pictures of bleedin' Meerkats.

 

Meerkats, llamas, there's a bit of a theme going on here mate