improving brakes
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Downham Market
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
improving brakes
Hi all, looking for a bit of advice, I've got a nice turbo 2000, MY00, and I love it, planning on doing some track days in the spring, but the brakes aren't brilliant, I've changed the discs and pads, and they are better, but by no means great for track day driving.
I understand having read some posts that the classic brakes aren't great anyway, but is there any way I can improve them without going down the big brake conversion route and spending hundreds if not thousands on that, and all it entails, bigger wheels, different offsets etc.
Would be grateful of any advice.
Matt
I understand having read some posts that the classic brakes aren't great anyway, but is there any way I can improve them without going down the big brake conversion route and spending hundreds if not thousands on that, and all it entails, bigger wheels, different offsets etc.
Would be grateful of any advice.
Matt
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Belfast
Posts: 2,999
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just go for a set of Subaru 4 pot calipers for the front, they can be picked up for as little as £80 for a set needing tidied up or about £150 for a good set. I did it on my UK turbo and it made a decent improvement, cost me £130. Have a look in the for sale section for some. Most people sell them with discs and pads included.
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Downham Market
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi, thanks for the quick response, does that require me getting bigger wheels or discs etc,or altering any offsets, or is it just a case of changing the calipers and bleeding the system?
Sorry if I come across a bit daft, I am still learning.
Sorry if I come across a bit daft, I am still learning.
Trending Topics
#9
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Horsham, Sussex
Posts: 784
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did you replace the disks and pads yourself? if so did the pistons move freely?
Any friction stopping the pistons moving will impede braking performance. If this is the case I'd get them refurbished with SS pistons by Godspeed before going for bigger brakes, etc.
Any friction stopping the pistons moving will impede braking performance. If this is the case I'd get them refurbished with SS pistons by Godspeed before going for bigger brakes, etc.
#10
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Downham Market
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had a garage fit the brakes, got some mintex discs and pads, the garage didn't mention anything about pistons being stuck or anything. would replacing the brake fluid make any difference, or do I need to upgrade the pads?
#12
THE braking specialist
iTrader: (259)
If you have fitted standard discs and standard Mintex pads then they won't get any better than what they are now , you need to at least change the pads.
You also need to check the pistons are free , just because they have been fitted by a garage doesn't mean they have been checked out properly , but the Subaru 4 pots are prone to seizing because of rusting pistons
Cheers Ian
You also need to check the pistons are free , just because they have been fitted by a garage doesn't mean they have been checked out properly , but the Subaru 4 pots are prone to seizing because of rusting pistons
Cheers Ian
#13
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Downham Market
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
much appreciated ill check the pistons are free, any suggestions for good pads? mainly road use, with occasional track day, standard car at the moment, but looking to remap in the near future to hopefully get around 260hp ish
#14
Scooby Regular
Track days ouch. Id go back to Ian above and ask him for some decent discs too otherwise you will be warping them.
#15
Scooby Regular
I went through the whole thing of disks, pads lines etc and was never happy with them till i sacke them, went with 6 pots in the end. well worth the money since a decent set of pads and disks will be 400 ish anyway.
http://shop.scoobyclinic.com/index.p...product_id=521
http://shop.scoobyclinic.com/index.p...product_id=521
#17
Scooby Regular
To Matt and Natasha , I tried 3 sets of std discs and all warped in my driving case. Personally I found the std WRX brakes not up to the job on my 265 Hp car , so I did the brakes and suspension before putting the power up to over 300 hp. Probably if you use a WRX on 218 hp and drive sensibly to UK motorway speeds the std brakes are OK , personally I don't feel safe with them.
#18
Scooby Regular
I went through the whole thing of disks, pads lines etc and was never happy with them till i sacke them, went with 6 pots in the end. well worth the money since a decent set of pads and disks will be 400 ish anyway.
http://shop.scoobyclinic.com/index.p...product_id=521
http://shop.scoobyclinic.com/index.p...product_id=521
Stoptech 6 pots , I found them in Germany at 875€ but not with brake lines. Above supplier throws in unknown brake pads all of which is not a critic to quality, Id just like to know what they are, then the disks are 330mm. What I would mention here is they are not 2 piece. The heat is best kept out of the wheel bearing with 2 piece as more heat is disappated through the alluminium. Warping is reduced as the disc can cool more evenly , ( never leave you foot on the pedal after a motorway exit ). Technically http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/tw...or_upgrade.asp these are some of the best I have seen. https://www#youtube#com/watch?v=ZMOCEfH7-zw
Mine are from Godspeed , at 335mm 34mm weight is similar to the smaller standard full steel disk 292 mm and 25mm thick, although Godspeed disks are not full floating on the hat. The conversion costs less than half of the 6 pot , ok I will here admit the std subaru 4 pots are not going to win prizes but personally I have found that I can now come down from 150mph off the motorway then drive hard through the lanes without warping and retaining fully brake capability. I am actually surprised just how well the Sub 4 pots keep going , as the system as a whole was downright diabolical before I made this change.
I think that a key point here is keeping the heat out of the caliper.
See http://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk The brackets used on the Big brake conversion move the caliper of from the wheelhub. So the heat sink bridge is reduced again. Would a 6 pot conversion on 335mm be better still , sure but then they would not fit under the 17 wheel. More expense for 18inch / tyres.
You pays your money and takes your choice , I rather pay a little less but still get pretty good brake performance for less. Best regs Linksfahrer
Last edited by Linksfahrer; 03 January 2015 at 11:48 AM. Reason: url edit
#19
Scooby Regular
iirc they are two piece disks, check out the yellow pic in the link, these wern't the kit i had but they have used these on their race cars to give em a full work out
if you can find stoptech 6 pots for that price buy em, they are mega money over here
if you can find stoptech 6 pots for that price buy em, they are mega money over here
#20
Scooby Regular
Nice APs on that link , but you needed 18inch OZ's also nice when you have some cash. Not so sure about the pink wheel nuts though
#24
Scooby Regular
#26
Scooby Regular
By the way what did cause me to stop at the ring last summer were the std rears as they were glowing red and cooking the mintex pads so the F-R balance was all over the place. So I was moving pretty fast before then.
Why this is so Try to bear in mind that the calipers are extended out away from the hub on the adapters and that the heat sink transfer into the hub is reduced due to the aluminium hat. Once I get the rears improved this summer ill have another go. Best regards Ralph
#27
Scooby Regular
Busta As you don't have my combination you can't really judge , trust me I have pasted it on these for 3 laps of the ring on 300+hp last summer with no issues and I know exactly what you mean on the Std 4 pot , just driving streets Id previously managed to warp 3 sets of std disks and the fluid was useless afterward.
By the way what did cause me to stop at the ring last summer were the std rears as they were glowing red and cooking the mintex pads so the F-R balance was all over the place. So I was moving pretty fast before then.
Why this is so Try to bear in mind that the calipers are extended out away from the hub on the adapters and that the heat sink transfer into the hub is reduced due to the aluminium hat. Once I get the rears improved this summer ill have another go. Best regards Ralph
By the way what did cause me to stop at the ring last summer were the std rears as they were glowing red and cooking the mintex pads so the F-R balance was all over the place. So I was moving pretty fast before then.
Why this is so Try to bear in mind that the calipers are extended out away from the hub on the adapters and that the heat sink transfer into the hub is reduced due to the aluminium hat. Once I get the rears improved this summer ill have another go. Best regards Ralph
final thing that made me change was killing the pads and disks on the isle of mann, then killed the box using engine to brakes when they were cooked lol
#28
Scooby Regular
see what I mean about the pink wheel nuts otherwise both setups look awesome though.
#29
Scooby Regular
My big problem is the TÜV , currently I can swap everything back to std in 15 minutes. Everything else is a pain/expense getting it written into the cars paperwork.