I recently moved to Godspeed G hook discs and a fresh set of Brembo Hp sport pads and I have been struggling to get them bedded in.
I replaced the fluid and checked the pads move freely and the runners are lubricated ect.
I've done 500 or so miles to make sure all the machining marks are removed from the disc, And carried out bedding in procedure many times.

They seemed ok at first with good cold bite but I'm just not getting the same amount of braking force as I did on the previous set up.
Previously I was on drilled discs with Brembo hp sport pads.

I removed the pads the other day just to check all was well and I've noticed the pads are starting to crumble with bits of pad material missing.

I still have my old Brembo pads from the last set up and they have no signs of damage.

I'm wondering if the design of the G hook disc is a lot more aggressive on the pads and causing this to happen or have I got a bad batch of pads?


Daz.

 

Hi
It won't be the discs as I have G hook discs fitted to my everyday vehicle with standard brembo pads and they work very well , they have been on a couple of thousand miles , had it all off last week to change a wheel bearing and my pads look perfect , are the caliper pistons free and working as they should ?

I would put it down to a caliper issue , or bad pads , if you have your old pads still and they were working well , flatten them off on every cloth on a flat surface and try them with the new discs and see how they work , if they work as well as they did you can put it down to the new pads.
Are you sure you were supplied brembo sport pads and not standard ones ?

Cheers Ian

 

Hi Ian,
Calipers were rebuild by you earlier this year, So don't think there the problem.
The pads are the Silver Brembo Hp sport identical to the older set.

I was thinking of putting the older ones in and seeing how I get on but there's not much meat left on them.

In a bit of a predicament now as I have one set of damaged pads and a set of nearly worn out pads.

What pad do you recommend? I was looking at the Ebc blue ndx.

 

Hi,
Is there any chance that the new pads are Chinese counterfeit?
I used to work for a large fuel injection manufacturer and was on their anti-counterfeit team. We saw all sorts of counterfeit parts and brake pads were quite common. The worst were made from compressed sawdust and resin (I kid you not!!)
Cheers
Steve

 

No I've contacted the well known supplier and they said they would send the pads back to Brembo to be inspected if I so wish.
And both sets of pads are from the same place.

 

Well I've done what Ian suggested and given the a good sanding on a flat surface.
The missing chunks in the pads were only half a mm or so deep and the surface looked quite glazed.
After a good sanding and removing a bit of pad material they came up quite well.

Going to pop them back in a try bedding in again.

Damage and glazed





After a good sanding on flat surface.

 

Still having dramas with the brakes, There utter crap!
I re fitted the brembo Hp pads after giving them a sand down, Then gave them a gentle 200 or so miles to settle in until they had full pad contact across the disc.

I then did a few bed in sessions and there still the same.
They fade so easily and make a horrendously loud woo woo woo noise as they fade.
I'm talking two to three stops from 60-20 and then total fade.

I then ordered a set of Black Dimond predator pads, I had these fitted before I went to brembos and they worked well. But even after gently letting them settle and bedding them in there exactly the same as the Brembo pads!!

I changed the fluid again at the weekend and remove all the pads to check they all move freely and checked all pistons move so no problem there.

What's is going on ???
Ive never felt braking this bad on any car! Surely two sets of pads by two different manufacturers can't be wrong!

 

Hi
It won't be the discs that is the problem , discs don't fade , pads or fluid does .

When you get the fade , is the pedal still good , or does it drop to the floor ?

I rate the Brembo sport pads on par with DS2500's , so a fairly good all round fast road pad , but you can still fade them driving hard , can't see how with only 3 stops though.

What fluid are you using ?

Cheers Ian

 

can you try your old discs to rule the discs out ?

 

It would be very strange as Ian pointed out above that it's a lump of metal. What can go wrong with them to cause these issues?

I'll offer a different suggestion.....

Leaking brake pipe. But a tiny leak, possibly on a rubber hose? Let's air in under hard braking?

 

Got a firm pedal during the fade, I'm using Castrol react dot 4. it's doing my head in now, Am I doing the bedding in process wrong or something! Never had this problem with any other brake install.

Can't imagine it is fluid fade as the brakes are no way getting the heat in them to do that.

 

There's is no leaks, also have braided hoses fitted.

 

You won't get air in the system if you have no leaks , if there was a pipe issue it would leak under pressure .

If your pedal is staying firm its not fluid overheating , it sounds like a pad issue , obviously its not helping swapping pad makes as a pad will lay a layer of pad material on the disc , that's what they do , swapping pad makes back and forth is laying a mix of materials on so would take longer than normal to clean off and bed in .

its a strange one its not lasting longer than 3 stops , especially at the speeds you mentioned .

The bedding in process we recommend for discs is totally different to just pads , discs we say 300 miles of A & B road driving , then a series of high speed stops , if you can find somewhere quiet if you can do 5 big stops with gaps in between each stop to let them cool , about 5 - 10 mins gap , when I do mine , i'll go out early or late so no traffic about , brake hard from high speed (80-90) down to 20 , DO NOT come to a complete stop , drive normally for 5 - 10 mins , and repeat , do this 5 times and let them cool off totally , say over night , they should be good to go then .

This only applies if the mechanics of the car are working properly , ie , calipers ect .

If you're fitting pads only , some makes recommending going out straight away and giving them some high speed stops , I would say 50 miles of normal A&B road driving , then 5 hard stops as above and a cooling off over night.

Cheers Ian

 

I would say the discs are fully bedded in, there's no machining marks left and I'm getting a even pad contact across the face of the disc.

I will remove the disc's and try to remove any old pad material from them, like wise with the pads then reinstall them and try again.

Your bed in process is different to the one I've been doing so I will try that.
So gently settle them in for a 50 plus miles then 5 hard stops from 80-90 with up to 10 min of cool down between them.

I've been doing repetitive stops from 60 to 20 with only a minute or two between them.

Really hope this works, I'll post back after I've done it.
Thanks Ian.

 

Well I took the callipers discs and pads off the car yet again and this time I made sure everything was clean and as it should be.

All pads move freely.
Pistons move easily.
No corrosion on pad guides.
Minimal pad deposits on disc that I removed using a 1000 grit wet&dry.
The black diamond pads looked perfect unlike the Brembo pads that were glazed and crumbling.

I reinstalled everything making sure everything was perfect.
Also put ceratec paste put between pad and piston.

The idea was to drive 50 miles and then try Kev's bed in procedure, but it taken nearly 200 miles before all the light wet & dry marks were removed from the disc and the pads looked like it was settled with the face of the disc.

Going to be doing Kev's bed in procedure tonight or tomorrow evening so hopefully it works.

 

If still no luck then suggest trying a known high-quality pad - PFZ at £110 delivered or RC5+ for £130 delivered so not too pricey.

I tried a set of Black Diamond FastTrack pads which were dire beyond belief. Swapped to CarboTech XP10s and all is well again - everything else in the setup including discs is identical.

 

I never had a problem or fade on the road with that pad before, Hence why I tried it again.
I didn't want to try a pad I've never used before and not know if it was the pad or another component causing it.

 

If pads arnt bedded in correctly initially they will never perform to their best

 

Finally all sorted!
Bedding in went better this time,
I did 5 or 6 high speed firm braking sessions with lots of cooling time in between as Kev suggested.

I actually felt I had brakes this time although I was still getting the loud wooooo noise.

I then went out again a few days later when the roads were dead but this time I left a short time between braking.
This time I managed several repetitive stops from 80-20, After the 4th repetitive hard stop the loud woooo noise had totally disappeared.
Much better then previous attempts where I was get around 3 stops and chronic fade to the point the car wasn't stoping.

After this I drove up and down the dual carriageway for 20 or so min without touching the brakes at all to let them cool as best I could.

Next morning I checked the discs and there was dark blue pad transfer even across the discs.

I'm glad it's all now sorted! Never had this much trouble bedding in pads before!

 

Hi
Glad you're sorted , this is the way we always recommend bedding our pads and discs in , and it does the job.
I'm a bit more aggressive bedding the brakes in on my Wrc car , but then I'm using a much more aggressive pad.
Cheers Ian

Ps who's Kev lol

 

Sorry! Yeah whos Kev???