AP 4 POTS
#2
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HKS,
I can't answer your 2pot to AP question.
But if you are thinking of getting some, they are superb, more than enough stopping power for road use and track days, no brake fade or worrying moments, I've got AP 4 pots & 330mm discs on my STI-V and they are simply stunning, hope this helps
I can't answer your 2pot to AP question.
But if you are thinking of getting some, they are superb, more than enough stopping power for road use and track days, no brake fade or worrying moments, I've got AP 4 pots & 330mm discs on my STI-V and they are simply stunning, hope this helps
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#3
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I went from 2 pots to subaru 4 pots and the difference was amazing , then I went to AP 4pots with the 305mm discs and the difference again was unreal . The subaru 4pots I could get to fade no problem , AP's with DS2000's I have never got to fade . Best upgrade I have on the car .
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Is the fading not related more to the pads rather than calipers? I've changed from OE pads to DS2500s on the standard Subaru 4-pots and the difference is amazing (no fade, etc)...
Is it worth upgrading Subaru 4-pots to AP/Brembo/Tarox/etc 4-pots? Is there much difference (with the same pads)? Or do you have to go all the way to 6-pots?
Is it worth upgrading Subaru 4-pots to AP/Brembo/Tarox/etc 4-pots? Is there much difference (with the same pads)? Or do you have to go all the way to 6-pots?
#6
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First of all, the AP4 pot kit is fantastic, end of story.
If you don't have brake fade with the standard set up on track, 2 or 4 pot, then you're not trying hard enough! I could only manage 2 laps around knockhill with the 2 pots before getting fade, and thats with a warm up lap. I firmly believe the secret of removing the fade element from your brake set up is not in the type of pads you use, nor the caliper. The AP discs with alloy bells are at the heart of the set up, along with the ability to pump out all that heat generated from the 48 vanes. For that reason, make sure it's an official set up, not one thrown together at a knockdown price.
If you're going anywhere near a track, get your brakes upgraded properly. There's no point in going down the so called upgraded disc/ pad route. I've been there and you're wasting your money. So what if you get another lap before fade starts to come in, it's just as frustrating. I'm talking about using your car at a track day with no fade, 15-20 laps at a time, no problems. Some may remember a track outing last year when there was smoke belching from my front arches...copper slip burning off following a pad change, serious amounts of heat but still, no fade!
I would certainly question their value if you weren't going near a track, but if you are they come very very highly recommended.
If you don't have brake fade with the standard set up on track, 2 or 4 pot, then you're not trying hard enough! I could only manage 2 laps around knockhill with the 2 pots before getting fade, and thats with a warm up lap. I firmly believe the secret of removing the fade element from your brake set up is not in the type of pads you use, nor the caliper. The AP discs with alloy bells are at the heart of the set up, along with the ability to pump out all that heat generated from the 48 vanes. For that reason, make sure it's an official set up, not one thrown together at a knockdown price.
If you're going anywhere near a track, get your brakes upgraded properly. There's no point in going down the so called upgraded disc/ pad route. I've been there and you're wasting your money. So what if you get another lap before fade starts to come in, it's just as frustrating. I'm talking about using your car at a track day with no fade, 15-20 laps at a time, no problems. Some may remember a track outing last year when there was smoke belching from my front arches...copper slip burning off following a pad change, serious amounts of heat but still, no fade!
I would certainly question their value if you weren't going near a track, but if you are they come very very highly recommended.
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#8
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I think AP recommend 10mm clearance but knowing my memory.... In any case I have about 6mm from the spokes and run without problems. My alloys are different but 1mm clearance sounds VERY close, I wouldn't recommend running with that. Are you sure the caliper is sitting central to the disc? This is critical! Remember, the disc probably won't fit square to the hub with the wheel off and may be misleading. I used ordinary nuts to hold the disc flush to the hub while I set the caliper central. If it's an official kit, you should have washers to allow adjustment of the caliper position in relation to the disc. Sorry I can't be of more help but worth checking.
Alan
Alan
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