Mcgard nut won't budge - HELP
24 June 2007, 11:41 PM
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Mcgard nut won't budge - HELP
I've had a set of mcgard ultras on for 7 months, came to get new tyres and 1 of the nuts is jammed on and won't budge. Tried 2 local tyre places and neither can get them off. I've heard of this problem before
Tried hammering a socket onto it but that hasn't worked
Please can someone help via PM if possible
Thanks in advance
Tried hammering a socket onto it but that hasn't worked
Please can someone help via PM if possible
Thanks in advance
Last edited by jonnypb; 25 June 2007 at 12:04 AM. Reason: more info
25 June 2007, 04:20 PM
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snap-on also sell a set of them for various different types of lockers the set is around £100 (and yes i do have one and it works well when you lost the key or mangled one up because some twonk put it on to tight)
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27 June 2007, 01:15 PM
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I had mine stick on me a few weeks ago and ended up braking the socket for them (the day before I was due to travel to Gatwick to go on hols)!!!
A mechanic mate got them off eventually, but not without a great deal of effort. Used some reverse sockets (or something) which basically grip onto the nuts tighter the more you turn them.
Had to remove the anti-theft bit (which rotate freely if you try and attach a std socket to them) first to give the reverse socket something to grab onto.
Not a pleasent job and alloys slightly worse for wear afterwards
A mechanic mate got them off eventually, but not without a great deal of effort. Used some reverse sockets (or something) which basically grip onto the nuts tighter the more you turn them.
Had to remove the anti-theft bit (which rotate freely if you try and attach a std socket to them) first to give the reverse socket something to grab onto.
Not a pleasent job and alloys slightly worse for wear afterwards
28 June 2007, 09:53 PM
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The SNAP-ON set will remove these ok, or if you brave you can hammer anything into the softer Center (chizzle etc) after warming with oxy accetaline belive it or not the wheel is such a good heatsink if your careful you wont even mark the paint, then you can grip whatever is in there with some mole grips and remove 
. snap-on set is not to bad an option it was about £100 if i remember correctly and usefull if you ever have the problem again (or your mates), just seen this Locking Wheel Nut Remover, Professional Motor Mechanic Top Product Winner,which hammers into the offending nut aswell looks good to me oh and scoobynet member 'ticky' may have som pearls of wisdom aswell hope you getr it sorted -james-
. snap-on set is not to bad an option it was about £100 if i remember correctly and usefull if you ever have the problem again (or your mates), just seen this Locking Wheel Nut Remover, Professional Motor Mechanic Top Product Winner,which hammers into the offending nut aswell looks good to me oh and scoobynet member 'ticky' may have som pearls of wisdom aswell hope you getr it sorted -james-
30 June 2007, 03:02 PM
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I had a similar problem with EVO lock nuts, which are similar to Mcgard ultras in the context that have a spinning sleeve. I have two sets fitted to a range rover sport with 20" wheels.
The garage that serviced the car, used an air hammer to refit the wheels after a service, (Main agent starting with Strat ending with Stone) striped one key, but did not tell me, so when I got a puncher - i had to get the car recovered to my work, I then spent hours trying to remove them - The sockets which have a reverse tapered thread do not work on sleeved lock nuts (no matter how hard you hit them) - removing the hardened sleeve is very difficult, if not impossible with out damaging the wheel as theses not a lot of room, and they are hardened. You will not squash the sleeve ethier - I tried to drill the centre of the lock nut and use an "Easy -Out" but broke several drill bits even Cobalt ones and then broke an "Easy Out" when I finally got a hole. I had lost the code card, so could not order a spare key.
I bought a similar tool to the one in the previous post from Franklin tools. Aparently AA men use them. About £100.
It did the trick. You need to hit it on hard with a club hammer and it molds to the shape of the key hole patten. You need to buy a new head for each set you remove.
The lessons I learnt.
1. Evo and McGard lock nuts are effective security - oem ones are not.
2. I now show the lock nut keys undamaged to the servce advisor before a service and check them afterward. No matter what they say, they use air hammers to put alloy wheels on including locking nuts.
3. I now have two keys for each set.
Hope this helps.
SleeperSy
The garage that serviced the car, used an air hammer to refit the wheels after a service, (Main agent starting with Strat ending with Stone) striped one key, but did not tell me, so when I got a puncher - i had to get the car recovered to my work, I then spent hours trying to remove them - The sockets which have a reverse tapered thread do not work on sleeved lock nuts (no matter how hard you hit them) - removing the hardened sleeve is very difficult, if not impossible with out damaging the wheel as theses not a lot of room, and they are hardened. You will not squash the sleeve ethier - I tried to drill the centre of the lock nut and use an "Easy -Out" but broke several drill bits even Cobalt ones and then broke an "Easy Out" when I finally got a hole. I had lost the code card, so could not order a spare key.
I bought a similar tool to the one in the previous post from Franklin tools. Aparently AA men use them. About £100.
It did the trick. You need to hit it on hard with a club hammer and it molds to the shape of the key hole patten. You need to buy a new head for each set you remove.
The lessons I learnt.
1. Evo and McGard lock nuts are effective security - oem ones are not.
2. I now show the lock nut keys undamaged to the servce advisor before a service and check them afterward. No matter what they say, they use air hammers to put alloy wheels on including locking nuts.
3. I now have two keys for each set.
Hope this helps.
SleeperSy
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