Godspeed Brakes

iTrader: (259)

HI
Its very simple really ,Remove the pins and clips holding the pads in place , as your throwing the discs and pads away , fit a screwdriver between the pads and discs and lever the pistons back into the calipers , this will enable you to fit the new thicker pads in later , undo the 2 bolts holding the calipers onto the hub , cable tie them to the suspension spring out the way so no strain is on the brake pipe , the disc will just pull of the drive flange , it might be rusted on , if so give a tap from behind with a mallet , when the disc is off clean the hub face where the disc sits with emery cloth and WD40 to make sure it is perfectly clean , this will make the disc sit perfect so you should have no runout .

At this stage I bolt the caliper back on with no disc , and clean out where the pads fit , the brembo calipers have metal plates top and bottom to stop the pads digging into the alluminium body , the dust can collect around these , or check for corrosion under them which lifts them away from the caliper body making it difficult to fit the pads in , this can also lead to pad sticking in the calipers , which in turn can overheat a disc and warp it. I use different screwdivers to scrape the dust and crap away , if the corrosion is bad , the metal plates need removing to clean out underneath them , but this doesn't happen very often , you can also spray on some brake and clutch cleaner , this is good stuff and evaporates as well. cable tie the caliper back up

You can apply some copper slip to the flange face , fit the disc on , I hold it in place at this stage with 3 wheel nuts , put some washers on the studs first or the nuts will bottom out before going tight , Cut the cable tie and fit the caliper , apply some copper slip in a circle where the piston are , and also to either end of the pads , be carefull not to get any copperslip on the pad face as your turbo nutter b4stard brakes wont work as they should
Fit the bottom pin in , then the spring clip , then the top pin , these just tap in and out with a thin bar , punch , screwdriver.

Pump the brake pedal to get all the pistons back out so the pads are up against the discs , remove the wheel nuts and washers , and refit the wheels , I do this one side at a time.
I have a ramp here , if your doing it on a jack , use axle stands

Cheers Ian

Godspeed Brakes

iTrader: (259)

Its the rear ones I have had problems with in the past as they have a smaller bolt , but if they are stuck they can be tricky to remove , if you feel the bolt going tight , turn it the other way , when you refit the bolts back in you could apply a small amount of copper slip to them as well , which would help in the future

If you do end up damaging the threads , I can helicoil them for you

Cheers Ian

D1CCY

I've had a dud caliper bolt in the front that caused me grief, not uncommon. I'm sure Ian can helicoil if this happens. Not much you can do if it is tight/damaged, just murder it out and sort the mess after.

stockcar

common fault D1ccy, they seem to be over-tightened or fitted by monkeys in the factory???

alyn

handsome rob

Thanks for that ian, great timing , i did mine today the fronts i bought from you and collected from peter lloyd rallying on the sat morning ,luckily had no probs with the bolts ,will be getting rears off you in the new year. Cheers Rob.

D1CCY

Alyn,

Mine was definitely a dud bolt. There was a solid lump on the end of the thread (looked like someone had put a blob of weld on it), This had been murdered in at the factory. Very poor quality control and the monkey must have noticed how hard it was to screw in and didn't bother to figure out why. Took me over an hour to extract with WD40 and working to and fro and still ruined the thread, I wasn't impressed.

Cheers, Diccy.

D1CCY

Actually I sold them with the buyer aware that a helicoil was needed (if they are already off the car its not a lot of bother to get done) and went for AP 6 pots. Helicoil sorts the problem OK as a permanent solution.